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I need help.

My question is about the finish on the 1975 GL1000 fork tubes.

Are they Chromed or just polished?

I have some that are looking really bad, is it possible to just polish them?

Do they have a protective coating on them from the factory or are they chromed?

If they are chromed is there an outlet for Black rubber accordion fork covers to cover them up?

Dave "zimco"
 

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i have not seen any that were chromed. just polished bare metal. if they are pitted badly in the travel area of the seal they are kinda considered junk.
 

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I've never seen fork tubes that WEREN'T plated. :)
 

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there is no plating on my 79 , or my 83. we are talking tubes , not sliders.
 

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If the (steel) tubes weren't plated, they would haze over and tear the seals out weekly.
 

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I have always called them fork tubes, I could be wrong.

What I am talking about is the long tube which is mounted in the triple trees and goes into what I call the bottom leg.

This is the 37mm (I believe) tube that slides up and down to give the front end spring action.

Thanks
Dave "zimco"
 

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triple tree mounted --yep tubes. the part that the wheel is attached to is a slider. and is painted or polished . most of the time.
new tubes can be gotten from forking by frank. just google it. and they come up.
 

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Wingnumberone wrote:
If the (steel) tubes weren't plated, they would haze over and tear the seals out weekly.
as far as i know the tubes are machined and polished only. here is a pic of what happendes if they dont get any oil. notice there is no pitting on the seal travel area. still useable , yes they are.

 

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The tubes are double plated; brass then hard chrome. The pic above shows typical rusting of chrome plating. 30 year old polished only steel would look like the rest of the steel on that bike!
Chrome is porous, so any microscopic damage will allow moisture to rust the steel underneath. This why poor, single plate items rust so quickly.

I did pics to show this, but blew the circuit board on my camera.

TAKE HEED, anyone using a digital camera on a PC. It MUST be switched off before you connect to the USB power. Guess who didn't do that! :sobbing:
 

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too bad abuout the camera . would have like to have seen the pics.
 

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Old Fogey wrote:
The tubes are double plated; brass then hard chrome. The pic above shows typical rusting of chrome plating. 30 year old polished only steel would look like the rest of the steel on that bike!
Chrome is porous, so any microscopic damage will allow moisture to rust the steel underneath. This why poor, single plate items rust so quickly.

I did pics to show this, but blew the circuit board on my camera.

TAKE HEED, anyone using a digital camera on a PC. It MUST be switched off before you connect to the USB power. Guess who didn't do that! :sobbing:
Chromed, yes.

The camera; always off then plugged-in and turned on. Fire-Wire too.
 

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Yeah, shouldn't try doing things after just finishing a 14 hour shift!:gunhead:

Just realised I can use the webcam so here's a pic of the bottom worn part of a GL1000 stanchion showing the different layers of metal.

Again I wasn't thinking when I wrote that last reply. Chrome is also translucent, so that will be triple plated not double, with a layer of nickle on the brass (or possibly copper, could be either).

 

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zimco wrote:
If they are chromed is there an outlet for Black rubber accordion fork covers to cover them up?

Dave "zimco"
I have always run my bikes with rubber gaiters. Some folk don't like the look of them, but renewing fork seals is not my most favourite job in the workshop, and new stanchions don't come cheap. If you can keep the dust and grit out and prevent stone damage to the chrome, your forks will last a hell of a lot longer.

I'm sorry I don't remember where I bought them but many bike shops sell them, particularly look at some of the off-road or dirt bike specialists.

 

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Old Fogey wrote:
zimco wrote:
If they are chromed is there an outlet for Black rubber accordion fork covers to cover them up?

Dave "zimco"
I have always run my bikes with rubber gaiters. Some folk don't like the look of them, but renewing fork seals is not my most favourite job in the workshop, and new stanchions don't come cheap. If you can keep the dust and grit out and prevent stone damage to the chrome, your forks will last a hell of a lot longer.

I'm sorry I don't remember where I bought them but many bike shops sell them, particularly look at some of the off-road or dirt bike specialists.



you might try these for a fit.




this is from some one who posted it a while back. advance auto parts i belive. kinda gives a idea of where to look.
 

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the bottom line is if there pitted or whatever in the travel area there junk...period!...pitted in the upper t-tree area is just a cleaning job to slide em off.
 

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Sorry folks I have to disagree with the junk bit.



I have now have forks in use that have been repaired about 6 months ago and are still not leaking.



Exavidgave me a tip that with some careful work using wet and dry and what I call epoxy clear coat spray you can fill the pits in the travel area.



I removed both tubes and with the side of a small metal file took the raised edges off. No pressure just lightly passed it over.



I then used a course grade wet and dry pad and took off the main damage. I then spray filled and smoothed about five times building up a layer of epoxy into the pitted areas using my finger to check it was smooth.



It took a few hours workand the finish is not A1 show but it works and still works now.



I can recommend this as rechroming or junking are both expensive.
 

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Thank you, Everyone for your Advice, and recommendations.

I think for me, the best way to go is with Cleaning up the best pair (I have 6 Pair to choose from)
then covering them with the Monroe steering stabilizer boots #SA1997.

I can check the boots locally to make sure they fit.

They will actually give the bike an old school look.

Thanks Again
Dave "zimco"
 

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i stand confounded!!...that is a sneaky good...quick and dirty idea...that goes to show anybody can learn something new here!:congrats:


goldtop wrote:
Sorry folks I have to disagree with the junk bit.



I have now have forks in use that have been repaired about 6 months ago and are still not leaking.



Exavidgave me a tip that with some careful work using wet and dry and what I call epoxy clear coat spray you can fill the pits in the travel area.



I removed both tubes and with the side of a small metal file took the raised edges off. No pressure just lightly passed it over.



I then used a course grade wet and dry pad and took off the main damage. I then spray filled and smoothed about five times building up a layer of epoxy into the pitted areas using my finger to check it was smooth.



It took a few hours workand the finish is not A1 show but it works and still works now.



I can recommend this as rechroming or junking are both expensive.
 
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