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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
From frozen piston to a complete tear down, I changed main bearings, primary chain, new rings, honed cylinders and more. Now the bike is all back together, and started fine.
No black, blue/gray or white smoke. No back firing.But the problem is all cylinder have a low reading. They all have same reading of 80 psi.
the tester itself is not reliable from harbor freight (cheap). It has a long rubber hose, and it reads different when I use the short metal tube(around 120).
The procedure was:
Battery fully charged
All spark plugs removed
ignition on
kill switch on
throttle open
choke open(knob down)

I put a little of oil inside the pistons, and the reading went up slightly. This is not a good sign as it for sure something wrong with the I honed it or placed the rings. I checked the ring gaps and made sure they are 180 apart when assembled.
Does anyone went through all this before?
I thought I would get a big number since the rings are new, but it's acting as if the bike was sitting for 20 years.
I left it running for sometimes while diagnosing electrical issues. And rode it around the block. Made it to 3rd gear. Didn't want to go fast just incase something happens.
Any advice will be appreciated.
 

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.......
No black, blue/gray or white smoke. No back firing.But the problem is all cylinder have a low reading. They all have same reading of 80 psi.
the tester itself is not reliable from harbor freight (cheap). It has a long rubber hose, and it reads different when I use the short metal tube(around 120).
The procedure was:
Battery fully charged
All spark plugs removed
ignition on
kill switch on
throttle open
choke open(knob down)


Any advice will be appreciated.
Perhaps you answered your own question . Have you tried another compression gauge? Have you double checked the cam timing and valve clearance?
 

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And did you do the test with the engine warmed up?
 

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And did you do the test with the bike pointing north?

Oh, wait! That's not it...

...I'd think you'll will get a better reading after a bit of a break-in period.
All those fresh metal surfaces have to get to know each other in an intimate way.
Once bedded to each other, using a proper gauge should yield positive numbers.
Yes, Yes, and Yes. I agree with these guys!

Rayjoe
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That's what I was hoping to hear. What concerned me actually is not the readings. All cylinders read the same, and probably cheap Pittsburgh compression tester is not a way to go.
But putting some oil on pistons, the readings went up a bit. That calls for the rings and cylinders. But glad to hear that it needs some time, and I will definitely try it when warm.
I am not planning on riding around since I am having an overcharge issues. Which is expected with the age of the wires.
I am planning on installing the MotoGadget, so I will rewire it from scratch anyway. Same problem I had with the CB750F. Rewire it, then later installed the Gadget then it I felt I wasted a lot time and wire. Doing both at once is better.
I will replace the regulator with the adjustable one from CB750 to avoid the battery from cooking. (It does boil when it revs)


I will keep you updated
 

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By following him on the road you can tell if any exhaust smoke, its color and when happens- on the throttle or rolling off?
Lots of information from that.

Get that needed first few hundred miles on the ring set. Thousand of micro-hills and valleys have to level into each other,
and they are depending on you doing a new engine break-in ride(s)
That means no full throttle, no sustained throttle over 4000 and vary the rpm every 5-10 minutes on freeway cruise portion of the ride.
Use the gears to slow down like normal, helps the break-in process
If your owner or repair book says different - follow them.

Change the oil per book for new engine...500? 1000 miles?
All that metal rubbing together creates debris the oil filter hopefully captures.

Some like to go back and re-torque head bolts after 500 miles or so, several heat cycles.
If you have to adjust valves on 1000- ck them again.
 
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