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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the battery takes a charge and i cleaned the terminals but when i turn the key, nothing lights up and can't engage the starter. this didn't surprise me because the PO told me that the ignition switch was bad BUT, before i replace it, i want to try the easy stuff first. the bike only has 19k miles on it so it's not likely the ignition switch and i'd rather not remove the top tripple-tree if i don't have to. any suggestions?

1979 GL1000
 

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Did you check the main relay and dogbone fuse?
You can also run a wire direct from the battery to the starter to test it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i did check the fuses but i'm not sure about the "dogbone fuse". is it separate from the others? what does it look like?

i'm sure that the engine will turn over. what i want to do is try to start it.
 

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There is a fuse either a dog bone looking one or a blade fuse under your left side cover next to the starter relay. The relay is usually covered with a rubber coat type thing. to hellp you recognize. That is main fuse for entire bike.
 

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I had the same problem. I suspected the key switch. I checked out the switch and it was OK.
First, I would suggest that you check the ground cable where it connects to the motor mount bolt.
If that's OK, I'd suggest replacing the starter solenoid. I got one on eBay for about $16.00, brand new. It was not an exact plug in but they provided jumper wires and it worked out great for me. I hope this link helps.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOLENOID-RE...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item231f4d5f75
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the replies. i'll check the engine ground and fuses again in a bit.... it's got to be something simple because it only has 19k on it. i don't think it's the solenoid because i don't get any lights at all when i turn the key. if after i get some lights and it still won't start, i'll check that solenoid.

in fact my superglide did this same thing and it was a corroded fuse connection.
 

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like morriscatt said, check that main fuse first. It should be near the battery
 

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ignition switch

if you suspect the ignition switch (and the connections do, sometimes get loose and the bottom of the switch can come loose) it comes out pretty easily without removing the triple tree. There are two 10mm bolts that attach the switch to the TT.

toolcraft4100
 

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dogbone or main fuse is located on the side of the solenoid, next to the battery. pull the 4 wire connector and you will see the "trap door" that hides it. on modern solenoids, it's a gm style blade fuse near the top.
 

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thanks for the replies. i'll check the engine ground and fuses again in a bit.... it's got to be something simple because it only has 19k on it. i don't think it's the solenoid because i don't get any lights at all when i turn the key. if after i get some lights and it still won't start, i'll check that solenoid.

in fact my superglide did this same thing and it was a corroded fuse connection.
Mine only had 18K. Same symptoms. Solenoid was bad. Just my .02.
 

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It looks like there is not fuse in the dog bone holder..can't really tell pic too small. I'd install a blade fuse..get one with eyelitd on it and jsut screw into the two screws that should hold the dog bone and you are done.
 

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first pic looks like a ground wire for the regulator/rectifier and may plug into the 8 pin connector there. second pic is confusing as it's small and can't really tell what's going on there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the dog-bone fuse holder is missing the fuse. what kind of fuse is it? the electrodes are posts. how many amps is this fuse? i can always install a different fuse holder with a newer type of fuse.... here's a better pic. oh, and i bought a honda CM-400 today for fifty bucks. it only has 13K on it. as allah is my witness, it will run again. lots of shoddy work that needs to be fixed first though and he removed the front brakes! yikes... all missing parts are in a box. should be a fun project. unlike the goldwing, the dash comes to life when i turn the key. i have too many projects....
 

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what you have there is aftermarket and may or may not be a fuse holder. As stated before, get a new fuse holder and replace all that other stuff. The two red wires, one solid, one with a white tracer, are on one side of the fuse, the other side of the fuse goes direct to battery. At least that way on a 1200, I'm guessing yours would be similar, so maybe what you show could be factory. Replace it all the same. I just did this myself last night.
 

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It happens to mine while having a ride. What I did was move the lower side of the ignition switch and lights came up so I use a small piece of wood to force contact and return home. I. Switch is repairable. Take it off and open it to clean up springs, contacts and voila.Wish you same luck that I had.
 

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Looking at pic 1 in post 14, it looks like there have been PO fingers in there too. Worth a clean up and re-wrap to be sure everything is clean and tight. I think we are looking at the bottom of that fuse holder. Turn it over and remove the cover to reveal the fuse. As Trashtruck said, it must be 30 amps whether OEM dogbone or something else.
 
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