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I have accquired a 75 GL1000. This bike had not run for 15 years. I have had the fuel tank out & cleaned it out, it came out very nice before running it.



I have had the bike running, I did check the timing belts although I want to change the timing belts before I ride it. The bike runs good off idle, but at idle itseems to be slightly rough, but I think I need to pull the carbs off & clean out the idle circuits?



I have been looking at ordering some parts (carb kits) in particular & timing belts. I have been to the randakks site & looked at their carbkits, as opposed to parts n more site.



Does anyone here have any feedback for me!



I am also looking for a rear grab rail & a headlight as mine had the Eliminator fairing & hard bags on it, which I have removed to take it back to stock.



Dartman1962 ;)
 

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I haven't used any carb kits from any site but I have never heard of any complaints about Randakks kits except for the price.
 

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Welcome to our site :waving:

I can't help on your model bike, but others will be here soon.

My son is working in Saskatoon right now, what a coincidence. He travels over to Humboldt everyday to work on the Hydrogen Fuel buses for BC Transit.

Wish he had time to meet up with you, but he's putting in 14 hour days right now.
 

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That is a coincidence. Are they building thoses buses out in Humboldt?
 

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If you want to save installing your carbs a few times I'd reccomend Randak's kits and his video.
These carbs are the most finicky I have ever worked on.
I've now used three brands of kits and Randak sure has the best going. You really should split the plenum and I'm not sure anybody but him has the gaskets.
Cresent moon has the headlight or Ebay, the grab bar is hard to find but eventually I found one on ebay for one project.
 

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I have used 2 of Randakks kits (1000 and 1100 ). They have everything you need ,though they will lighten your pocket . Use his kit and do all the cleaing once and your done .
 

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I have also used two of his kits for an 1000 and 1200,I also got the video with the 1000 and highly recommend the video,it is super in depth...
 

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I wouldnt touch the carbs until I ran at lease two tanks of gas threw the motor with some SEA Foam, one once per gallon or a half can per tank. It dont work fast but it works, you probably wont end up touching the carbs. Good Luck
 

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sea foam worked wonders on mine from falling on it's face to running great. didn't have to touch them. sea foams some great stuff. may not be all you need but it's a cheap fix if it works for you.:cool:
 

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I agree with Patriot and Skoto1. Sea Foam is the best route to try first. Use as they said and run it at 70 with full then closed throttle and back to full to make everything operate. Good Luck.
 

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Just like everyone has said already, go with the seafoam trick and see how it runs. It is possible that all the bike needs is a good carb synch. If you do have to go with a rebuild, randakks is a good way to go. With his kit, you get all the gaskets that are needed.

for more info on the 1000s check out naked goldwings (not sure of site name right now.
 

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You may want to overhaul your forks. New oil, seals, and slider bushing. Best to get out of the way.
 

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By far the best kit out there is the one from Randakk. But you pay for it. I personally would not waste my money on anything else however. If I were going to be rebuilding the carbs on a 1000 I would only use his kit.

That being said, before I dished out almost $200 I would definitely try SeaFoam first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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Great advice. Now, if I cannot ride the bike due to dissassembly & Canada winters,but bike will run otherwise. Can I put it directly in the carbs & let it sit. We have a product here at work called Deep Creep, made by Seafoam. It says it can be used on 2 & 4 cycle engines, comes in a spray can. Is it the same thing as what you all are talking about?

I thank you all for your expertise.
 

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Dartman1962 wrote:
The bike runs good off idle, but at idle itseems to be slightly rough, but I think I need to pull the carbs off & clean out the idle circuits?
That is exactly what I would do. Before you go and "rebuild" them I'd just go through and clean them out. It doesn't take long at all and it's free! The first time I went into my carbs I could tell all the jets were new, etc. in other words rebuilt recently, but they were dirty. I noticed you had to clean your tank, so I'd imagine your needle screens are probably plugged up with a bit of crud. I wouldn't split the plenum myself as you can do a pretty good clean with the carbs still all attached to the plenum.
Pull them off as a bank, take off the float bowls and just see what's in there.:action:
(where's the wrenching emoticon?:cooldevil:)
 

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If that bike has been sitting for 15 years I wouldn't recommend hitting the starter button again until you replace timing belts unless you have a spare head lined up. Read to many adds about cleaning carbs and getting it out on the road and then breaking a belt only hour into the first ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
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I agree with you on the belts. As I originally said, I checked the belts, they are ok, but I would not go & ride the bike before changing them.

right now I have the rear of the bike in pieces with the tank out. I have the rear brake caliper & master cylinder rebuilt, the caliper was just seized & master cylinder was fine. same thing with the front ones.

I am trying to do what I can with minimal cost, so then I can focus on the belts, carbs & what else will cost me dearly.

I am very suprised on how well the bike really is, after sitting outside covered up for all these years. The front fork seals are fine, as it had gators on them, all they will require is the oil changing & a good polish on the alloy.

still looking for a headlight assy & rear grab rail, if anyone knows where to find them, I would be very grateful.

Dartman1962.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
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I emailed him the other day on the headlight & he had just sold it. I found a grab rail & a headlight assy today but pricy. headlight assy was $125 us & grabrail was $55.
thinking it over.
 

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Hi,



I recently got an 85 Aspencade. It had been sitting for a few years. The exhaust smelled rich, and it got poor fuel economy (less than 35). I ran 4 tanks of slightly overdosed SEA Foam, and now it is getting over 43 mpg. It still smells rather rich, so I got a Morgan Carbtune and ColorTune to work on adjusting my carbs.



I believe that adjusting a dirty carb would help, but would not achieve the fullest benefits.



kevin
 
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