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The question is, do I need to remove the rectifier to test it?

I tested it on my GL1000 by unplugging it and using my digital ohmmeter. I get the continuity between the green wires, but absolutely no reading on anything else.

The Clymer manual says to remove it, but the directions on Randakk's site does not.

My charging system went from good charge to almost nothing overnight. At 5000 rpm it's putting out 12.46v. It drops to about 11.9-12.1v at idle. (Lights on, fan off)
I checked the connections, and they look good. The 3 yellow stator wires are soldered and shrink wrapped.

So I'm presuming it's the rectifier. :?

Thanks!
:waving:
 

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Remove, no. Unplug, yes. And hopefully you can get to all thewires in the connector. Since you mentioned Randakk's, I'm sure you saw this test procedure for the gl1000. Keep in mind that the rectifier and regulator are seperate components.



http://www.randakks.com/TechTip73.htm
 

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Thanks!

I unplugged it to test, and I got continuity on the green, and nothing from the green to yellow, or anything else. I was kind of surprised at the instant failure.

I did see the test procedure on Randakk's site, and that the rectifier and regulator are different things. Maybe I should replace both, just to be on the cautious side.

I'll try a good used rectifier first to see if that's the problem. If so, I'll buy a new one and keep it for a spare.


Thanks again!

:waving:
 

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Junior Grue
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Have you tested the stator? If one leg goes bad you end up with 1/3 the charging capacity.
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
Have you tested the stator? If one leg goes bad you end up with 1/3 the charging capacity.
The PO just put a new one in last October, so I didn't even suspect it. I'll give it a test tomorrow.

Thanks!

:waving:


BTW, would that have any effect on the rectifier readings? Would it burn it out?
 
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