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The gear changes are very difficult. I think the clutch is still not right. I will do the adjustments all again tomorrow and se if it helps
Is the idle in your vid set at 1k? It seems lower but it's been a long time since I've heard my 1000 run I'm just going by my old age (alcohol) failing memory.
If your clutch is adjusted to the by-the-book free play at the lever, adjusting it further isn't going to help it shift smoother. Adjusting so that you have more free play is just giving you less clutch disengagement and adjusting for less free play can give you clutch slippage in the higher gears due to not enough engagement. These bikes shift really clunky compared to a modern bike. It is, after all, a 40 year old cable system. It's just something you have to get used to, just like the ancient feeling brakes.
I had forgotten how much fun those lock-nut style adjusters were.
There is a tool for that though.
Yeah, the adjusters are a pain in the *ss. I borrowed a tool for them once but found that using it was no better than just using an 8mm (or 9, whichever) and a flat head.
 

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Discussion Starter #283
Is the idle in your vid set at 1k? It seems lower but it's been a long time since I've heard my 1000 run I'm just going by my old age (alcohol) failing memory.
It was probably a little low. I was using the bikes tach, I am not sure how to hook up an external tach. But it seems way low to me compared to my gl1800, that is why I had it up to about 2000rpm. When it is at 1000 rpm, it seems like you can count the explosions


If your clutch is adjusted to the by-the-book free play at the lever, adjusting it further isn't going to help it shift smoother. Adjusting so that you have more free play is just giving you less clutch disengagement and adjusting for less free play can give you clutch slippage in the higher gears due to not enough engagement.
I did the entire adjustment procedure very carefully, making sure the locking nut did not change the adjustment when tightened. Then adjusted the end play at the lever. Took it out for a ride and it was perfect. Engaged about half the throw of the clutch lever and showed no signs of dragging when the lever was fully depressed

I really like riding this bike, but unfortunately it will have to wait for any long rides until spring. I am not going to register and insure it until the spring.
 

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Your engine seems to me like it's not as smooth as I remember my 1000 being?
Listen to this 1000,it idles smooth.
Do you have an inferred thermometer so the exhaust can be checked for temperature at idle?
 

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Yeah John,that's what I ment,I bought one and it's handy.
 

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Your engine seems to me like it's not as smooth as I remember my 100 being?
Yeah, it's idling kind of rough.
Syncing these things is so fiddly, almost a guessing game how much it will change when you tighten the locking nut. Lots of trial and error. This is as good as it will get this winter, I will check it again in the spring
If it was my bike, now'd be the time to go back and double check my valve clearances and the timing :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #289
An update. I have driven it 200 miles since the rebuild

What a sweet ride -- the power band of that bike between 3000 and 6000 rpm is to die for. I haven't had it over 6000rpm yet, but there also doesn't seem to be any need to. So far everything is going quite well. I did rebuild the front master cylinder because it was a little squishy. It is firm now, but there is to much travel in it for my liking. I guess that is just part of charm.

The clutch engages to far in the throw for me also, makes it hard for me to match RPM when taking off from a stop. I tend to over-rev a bit. I will mess with the adjustments a bit to see if I can get that a little better.

The idle still seems a little lumpy. At a red light there is a very small skip (once every 20 seconds or so) and it has stalled a few times. Very seldom, once every 10 stops perhaps. The idle speed seems constant, but changes from 900 rpm to 1200 rpm at different stops. It doesn't seem to move during the stop, but will be at slightly different values at each stop.

With 200 miles on the rebuild, it is my plan to go through the bike. Change oil and filter, check cam belts, adjust valve timing, adjust points (OEM ignition system including boots, coils). Re torque wheel bolts and a general inspection. Any other advise on what I might look at, adjust, inspect?
 

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If you like the power while you are running those low rpm.s , just look forward til you can try full power - this engine comes alive around 7000.LOL
About your idle warrying from time to time , - be sure your ignition advance fully retards ! if your springs for the centrifugal weigths are a little loose it will affect this .
 

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Discussion Starter #291
I drained the oil and changed the filter. No shimmering oil, chunks, slivers or FOD. That's a load off.

I checked the timing belts, and Changed the left one by one tooth. It seemed too be just a bit above the mark, when I changed it one tooth it came right on.

Adjusted the valves, in general I adjusted each just a little smaller gap.

Checked the ignition timing using the "split the difference" technique. I found the article from Randakk a bit confusing but when I was done the 1-2 was about 7/16 before the F of 1 and the 3-4 just after the f 2.

RESULT. I said that the bike came too life at 3000 rpm, Well that was because it wasn't right. It is wide awake through the the whole band now! I was disappointed with its low rev grunt, but not anymore. Tons of torque at low rpm and it willingly winds up to 6000( still dont have the balls pull that old motor too redline).

The idle sounds smoother, but it tends to stall all the time. I did not have a chance too rebalance the carbs, I will try to get to that sometime this week or maybe next weekend

So the bike I thought was sweet is even sweeter.
 

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Checked the ignition timing using the "split the difference" technique. I found the article from Randakk a bit confusing but when I was done the 1-2 was about 7/16 before the F of 1 and th 2-4 just after the f 2.

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I don't think you got that right. You are supposed to set the timing at F1, turn the engine 360º and check F1 again, if it's different you split the difference between the 2. As in if it's 4º more advanced the second time F1 comes up you would retard it 2º and on the next turn it would be 2º after F1. That may be more confusing than Randakk's.
 

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Discussion Starter #293
That is the way I understood it also, but it seems to close at exactly the same time for each rotation. So I guess I don't have to do anything?

It also says:

3. Check that points for #1 and #2 CLOSE after the F mark for “2”…if not increase gap, re-time and repeat this test

Well my closes after the F mark -- about 90 degrees after the F mark. So I am not quite sure how that works.


Then it goes to say

5. Set the timing for #3 and #4 relative to the F mark for “2”


But there are not separate adjustments for the 1-2 and 3-4, so it seems if you adjust anything for 3-4, you just screw up 1-2?

I am sure this is just me being a little thick in the aging grey matter, but I set it up the best I can and the bike runs great -- so I cant be off to much.
 

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That is the way I understood it also, but it seems to close at exactly the same time for each rotation. So I guess I don't have to do anything?

It also says:

3. Check that points for #1 and #2 CLOSE after the F mark for “2”…if not increase gap, re-time and repeat this test

Well my closes after the F mark -- about 90 degrees after the F mark. So I am not quite sure how that works.


Then it goes to say

5. Set the timing for #3 and #4 relative to the F mark for “2”


But there are not separate adjustments for the 1-2 and 3-4, so it seems if you adjust anything for 3-4, you just screw up 1-2?

I am sure this is just me being a little thick in the aging grey matter, but I set it up the best I can and the bike runs great -- so I cant be off to much.
#1 I assume you mean open instead of close? It fires when the points open. "close after the F mark" means both sets of points should never be closed at the same time so you want 1-2 to stay open until after 3-4 fires & vise verse.
There is a separate adjustment for the 3-4 timing, it is a separate little plate the 3-4 points mount on. It is probably fine if you got the point gap right, and if it runs good, but it might run better.
 

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Discussion Starter #295
Thanks for your inputs. That all makes it a little clearer. I have to look for the adjustment of 3-4
 

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RESULT. I said that the bike came too life at 3000 rpm, Well that was because it wasn't right. It is wide awake through the the whole band now! I was disappointed with its low rev grunt, but not anymore. Tons of torque at low rpm and it willingly winds up to 6000( still dont have the balls pull that old motor too redline).
Nope. The flat 6's have the low RPM torque compared to that motor.
If you thought it came to life at 3k before and you only ran it up to 6k now, get on it hard at 5k and wind that joker out. The 4 cylinders are high RPM motors.

I have to look for the adjustment of 3-4
points.jpg


Thank you Dave for explaining the timing and dwell so I didn't have to type all that.
 

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View attachment 265282


Thank you Dave for explaining the timing and dwell so I didn't have to type all that.
Thanks for posting that image, I was too lazy to look for it. Be aware adjusting that plate will also affect the point gap so you have to adjust it a little, check the gap and the timing and repeat, kind of a PITA.
 

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Thanks for posting that image, I was too lazy to look for it. Be aware adjusting that plate will also affect the point gap so you have to adjust it a little, check the gap and the timing and repeat, kind of a PITA.

You are absolutily correct , but i have one comment for the OP : If the point gap is a little of , - say from 0,36 to maybe 0,44 mm. then it is not that importent , - the only thing this affect it the time the coils has to load and unload , - the most importent thing is the timing when the points open !
I normally use a "stroboscope ligth" and do the timing dynamic ,(with engine running ), but you will need a sigth glass for this .(or else you and the bike will be covered in engine oil ).LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #299
So the 1-2 timing is adjusted by spinning the whole plate, and then the 3-4 is adjusted by loosening the screws in the diagram? I will be at it again this weekend. I will let you all know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #300
Nope. The flat 6's have the low RPM torque compared to that motor.
If you thought it came to life at 3k before and you only ran it up to 6k now, get on it hard at 5k and wind that joker out. The 4 cylinders are high RPM motors.


View attachment 265282


Thank you Dave for explaining the timing and dwell so I didn't have to type all that.

I just have to get over my fear -- My Gl1800 redlines at 6000, I have NEVER owned any motor that goes to 8000 -- no less a 40 year old one that was in pieces in my basement a few months ago. I will DO IT>:)
 
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