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Your 1800 will go past 6k easily and without damage. I think it will cut out by computer just past 7k. That being said, you normally don't need to rev it that far unless you are torturing some young guy on a sport bike....lol.
 

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The 1100 will turn a lot of rpm,on mine after doing some cleaning/ smoothing on my heads/intake it turned 10 grand,I've seen it higher,a guy in Apachie Az had a 1100 with twin Del Ortos and he had a 14 grand rev limiter on it.
 

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The 1100 will turn a lot of rpm,on mine after doing some cleaning/ smoothing on my heads/intake it turned 10 grand,I've seen it higher,a guy in Apachie Az had a 1100 with twin Del Ortos and he had a 14 grand rev limiter on it.
With a dead stock valve train when does valve float rear its head bending valves?
 

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Never had that issue,I suppose that might happen if it were turning high rpm for some time but being mechanical valve train never thought about it.Certainly was a way different sound at high rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #305
So I did the ignition timing again. I know for a fact that if you do it wrong, the bike becomes a dog. I took my time, then took it out for a test and could only get up the hill to my house by down shifting to second gear.

So i did it again. Just cant seems to get it where I think its right. 1-2 is before and after the timing mark as discussed, but when it is like that, I can get the 3-4 timing to be right on the mark and the next one about 1/2 inch advanced. I cant move the 3-4 timing any further because it is at the end of its adjustment. But as I said, it seems to run quite good at this adjustment. So I am just going to leave it there for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #306
Now for the new problem. After I adjusted the timing, I tried balancing the carbs. After fiddling with it for a while, the idle would hang up at about 2.5k. After a few seconds it would go back to 1k.

If I rev the bike, it hovers at about 2.5k -- I try moving the throttle, nothing, I pull on the carb linkage (rod from the cable to the left bank) and it comes down. The movement is not even noticeable, but it is repeatable -- rev and it stays at 2.5k -- pull the rod and it comes back to 1k.

Visually, nothing seems to be hanging. Turning the throttle and letting go, the linkage seems to snap back and bang on the idle stop. My plan is to remove the throttle cable to isolate if it is the cable or the linkage.

Any hints-- suggestions.
 

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So I did the ignition timing again. I know for a fact that if you do it wrong, the bike becomes a dog. I took my time, then took it out for a test and could only get up the hill to my house by down shifting to second gear.

So i did it again. Just cant seems to get it where I think its right. 1-2 is before and after the timing mark as discussed, but when it is like that, I can get the 3-4 timing to be right on the mark and the next one about 1/2 inch advanced. I cant move the 3-4 timing any further because it is at the end of its adjustment. But as I said, it seems to run quite good at this adjustment. So I am just going to leave it there for a while.
You have to tinker with the point gap to change 1 so the other will time right & so on, may be more trouble than it's worth.
 

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Now for the new problem. After I adjusted the timing, I tried balancing the carbs. After fiddling with it for a while, the idle would hang up at about 2.5k. After a few seconds it would go back to 1k.

If I rev the bike, it hovers at about 2.5k -- I try moving the throttle, nothing, I pull on the carb linkage (rod from the cable to the left bank) and it comes down. The movement is not even noticeable, but it is repeatable -- rev and it stays at 2.5k -- pull the rod and it comes back to 1k.

Visually, nothing seems to be hanging. Turning the throttle and letting go, the linkage seems to snap back and bang on the idle stop. My plan is to remove the throttle cable to isolate if it is the cable or the linkage.

Any hints-- suggestions.
You probably have the #2 carb set so it is causing the whole thing to hang. When balancing the carbs, no matter what the instructions say always go to the one with the highest vacuum first and balance it with the adjacent one then on to the next highest etc. That keeps you from getting the situation you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #309
You probably have the #2 carb set so it is causing the whole thing to hang. When balancing the carbs, no matter what the instructions say always go to the one with the highest vacuum first and balance it with the adjacent one then on to the next highest etc. That keeps you from getting the situation you have.
So after I timed the bike, it idled really nice. Like so many other times, I tried to make a good running bike a great running bike. It seems you have to make it a horrible running bike to get there. Something about leaving well enough alone. Since I changed the cam timing, valve clearance and ignition timing I only thought it the right thing to do to check it.

I have seen in other threads how incorrect synchronization can cause this "hanging" idle. Since it didn't happen before I "Fixed" it and it started happening while I was "fixing" it, I thought it a little strange that it started hanging up for no reason just out of the blue. I wondered if the adjustment could cause it, but it does not seem to make sense.

I will re-sychronize using your advice. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #310
I tried to re-synch the carbs, the RPM went up to 3k, and before I could stop it, sucked all the Manometer fluid into the hoses. So i had to get more Manometer fluid. A week later, the Manometer was cleaned, refilled and recalibrated.

Attacked the timing first. The last time, the 3-4 adjustments were all maxed out, so I turned the base plate to center the 3-4 adjustments, then adjusted the 3-4 as close as I could get. Then I adjusted the 1-2 timing by changing the gap. The whole this is so fiddly, changing anything effects everything else. but I fiddled it as close as i could. still not perfect, but closest so far.

at the carbs, the idle still hung up. I changed the balances without the manometer to get the idle down to 1.5k. Resynched the carbs -- another fiddly job. While I was waiting for the manometer fluid I bought a carb adjustment tool (screwdriver going down the middle of an 8mm socket. Made a fiddly job a bit better, but still could not get it perfect. I did stop the rpm from hanging. the idle seems solid now -- no stalling. still a little more lumpy than I would like, but it idles and doesnt stall.

the bike is riding great now -- nice idle, good low end toque, screams like a bee at high RPM. Ready for a summer full of rides!
 

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Discussion Starter #311
Now for clicking noise in the front end. Ive got the front wheel off the ground and spin it -- click click

Take the front right caliper off and click goes away. That caliper is missing the spring that tensions the pads -- can that cause the clicking? I dont see anything else out of the ordinary. Is there any place to get that spring?

It also doesnt have the shim. Does that have my calipers out of alignment?
 

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No idea where to get that spring except from salvage, ebay maybe. It should be fine without the shim but your pads may wear uneven. It will be OK without the spring even, except for the clicking.
 

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Been close to a year but you whooped that baby,It does look AWSOME,������������
 

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I had the same issue where it hangs when I rev it. Also, it kinda hesitated a bit when throttle was applied. It cured when I sync the carbs. Now it idles at 500. Unless my tach is wrong. But nice and smooth.
 

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Beautiful job! How does it feel to ride it? I attached a picture of where mine is at right now. I was thinking of making a thread. I just haven't gotten around to it yet.


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