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Discussion Starter #41
I got the case separated today. I found markings on the piston rods, see below. Is that something Honda would do or has someone else been in there?

I had a hunch that I would find the ring gaps aligned, and one of the Pistons on the left side indeed were. The other was aligned at 120 deg like I would have expected. I don't know if that would have worked its way out by itself or needed my intervention, but I Intervened.

That is probably all I will get to for a while. I travel a lot for my work and will be traveling for the next couple of weeks
 

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Discussion Starter #42
FOD in Engine

I finally got some time to work in the engine. It is all apart, and I found some FOD. I found what seems to be two small ball bearings (2.5mm) sheared right in half in the end cap of the main transmission shaft. They are shown in the pick below, Each of the item in the circles are half spheres, there is a fourth not in the picture

Any idea what those are? They don't seem to have caused any noticeable damage. Trying to figure out what to fix!
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I couldn't get the shifter drum out because I can't get the neutral switch out. Is there a trick I am missing or is mine just corroded in place. The exterior is quit corroded. There is no reason for me to remove it, just wanted to strip everything down so I could clean and paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I cleaned the two case halves today. I will measure everything in the next few days.
The plan:

1) measure the Pistons, cylinders. If everything measures out ok then deglaze and new rings

2) plastiguage the main bearings, Reuse them if they measure out ok
3) plastiguage the connecting rod bearings, reuse if they measure ok


Clean, paint, assemble repeat
 

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I got the case separated today. I found markings on the piston rods, see below. Is that something Honda would do or has someone else been in there?

I had a hunch that I would find the ring gaps aligned, and one of the Pistons on the left side indeed were. The other was aligned at 120 deg like I would have expected. I don't know if that would have worked its way out by itself or needed my intervention, but I Intervened.

That is probably all I will get to for a while. I travel a lot for my work and will be traveling for the next couple of weeks

I am doing the same thing on my 1977 GL1000. The engine is still in pieces. I am replacing the main bearings (luckily I found some ). Con-rod bearings still in good shape (those are not available). I home you didn't mix up the bearings and their caps. They need to go to their original places.


The markings on the crank is how to select your bearings. You should also see a letter and a number on the Con-rods. The manual explains it.
 

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I finally got some time to work in the engine. It is all apart, and I found some FOD. I found what seems to be two small ball bearings (2.5mm) sheared right in half in the end cap of the main transmission shaft. They are shown in the pick below, Each of the item in the circles are half spheres, there is a fourth not in the picture

Any idea what those are? They don't seem to have caused any noticeable damage. Trying to figure out what to fix!


You should have some bearings in the cases. Make sure those are still in good shape. Verify that the FOD you found is actually not the balls from those bearings.
 

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I couldn't get the shifter drum out because I can't get the neutral switch out. Is there a trick I am missing or is mine just corroded in place. The exterior is quit corroded. There is no reason for me to remove it, just wanted to strip everything down so I could clean and paint.

I used impact screwdriver to get those Philips screws. Worked nicely.
If I remember correctly, the neutral switch has 12mm bolt.
 

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I cleaned the two case halves today. I will measure everything in the next few days.
The plan:

1) measure the Pistons, cylinders. If everything measures out ok then deglaze and new rings

2) plastiguage the main bearings, Reuse them if they measure out ok
3) plastiguage the connecting rod bearings, reuse if they measure ok


Clean, paint, assemble repeat

I believe the left half has three Allen bolts, you can take those and flush the passage while you are there.
My reason is that I sand blasted the outside of the halves if thought I plugged every hole, I had to make sure no beads inside. Don't send blast!!!
I am waiting for flex hone tool. It's coming tomorrow. So my plan will be hone the cylinders and start putting everything back together.


I still have to rebuild the oil pump. Maybe replace the water pump. Some guys are saying don't bother rebuilding it. I will try anyways.


It will take me awhile since I have other bikes competing for attention as well, plus doing my regular full time job, and my wife :ROFL:


Post pictures along your questions, some how we love looking at things.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
The first round of measurements. Everything seems really nice. I have to wait to get the plastiguage before I get the bearing clearances.

I realize this probably means I should have left the bottom end alone, but I am here now. At least I can clean it and freshen up the rings

Does anyone have any experience on aftermarket rings? I see on eBay lots of aftermarket rings and a few nos. with these measurements, I will be putting in the standard size. Hard to find standard sized nos. any vendors better than others? Anyone to stay away from? (I will naturally stay away from Chinese makers)
 

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The first round of measurements. Everything seems really nice. I have to wait to get the plastiguage before I get the bearing clearances.

I realize this probably means I should have left the bottom end alone, but I am here now. At least I can clean it and freshen up the rings

Does anyone have any experience on aftermarket rings? I see on eBay lots of aftermarket rings and a few nos. with these measurements, I will be putting in the standard size. Hard to find standard sized nos. any vendors better than others? Anyone to stay away from? (I will naturally stay away from Chinese makers)

Did you figure out where that FOD come from?
I bought my rings from everett_powersports on ebay. He sold out. I got STD size.


While you are down there, replace main chain tensioner with GL1200. Those have spring loaded, and will quiet the noise on idle. Also you will have to modify the trough
Check out John : http://www.wingovations.com/fitting-a-sprung-primary-chain/4584942275


Make sure the main chain is still reusable.
Rebuild the scavenger pump. Again, John explained that too.


This is how to select the main and con-rod bearings
http://www.wingovations.com/choosing-your-crank-bearings/4588152247


He can hook you up with some piston rings as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I noticed that the internal bearings have alternating large balls and small balls. The small balls seem to be about the size of the FOD I found

I looked at all the bearings and they all seem to be tight and smooth. Can't see any little balls missing, but I think there is a cover over the bearings so you can't see them anyway. Any suggestions would be great
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Thanks for all the help. I will look at Everett powersports

I plan to go through everything, especially both the oil pumps before I put it back in. Take my time, make sure everything is right and put it back together carefully.



Did you figure out where that FOD come from?
I bought my rings from everett_powersports on ebay. He sold out. I got STD size.


While you are down there, replace main chain tensioner with GL1200. Those have spring loaded, and will quiet the noise on idle. Also you will have to modify the trough
Check out John : http://www.wingovations.com/fitting-a-sprung-primary-chain/4584942275


Make sure the main chain is still reusable.
Rebuild the scavenger pump. Again, John explained that too.


This is how to select the main and con-rod bearings
http://www.wingovations.com/choosing-your-crank-bearings/4588152247


He can hook you up with some piston rings as well.
 

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I noticed that the internal bearings have alternating large balls and small balls. The small balls seem to be about the size of the FOD I found

I looked at all the bearings and they all seem to be tight and smooth. Can't see any little balls missing, but I think there is a cover over the bearings so you can't see them anyway. Any suggestions would be great
What you're calling small balls is the riveting on the beating cage used to keep the balls evenly spaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Measured the main bearing clearance with plastiguage Two were .0015 and the other was .001. Limit is .003. The motor keeps looking in good shape, So I am going to stop measuring and put it back together.

I deglazed the cylinders. Very pleased on how they came out. Ordered new rings from eBay

Both halves have been cleaned and painted, see the pic. All ready for the parts to be put back on. I will start tomorrow, Wanted the paint to cure overnight
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I was putting the heads back together tonight, While torquing the rocker frame back on (220 in lb) I started feeling a few of the bolts stretch. One of them failed, I was lucky enough to stop before it broke so I didn't have to fish it out of the whole. I took it out in one piece. Luckily I can still buy them from Honda, so I am going to replace all 12

Any thoughts about the torque on those bolts, 220 in lb. (18 ft lb ) sure doesn't seem like enough to stretch those bolts.

If you look real close you can see the threads separating at the very top of the thread
 

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Measured the main bearing clearance with plastiguage Two were .0015 and the other was .001. Limit is .003. The motor keeps looking in good shape, So I am going to stop measuring and put it back together.

I deglazed the cylinders. Very pleased on how they came out. Ordered new rings from eBay

Both halves have been cleaned and painted, see the pic. All ready for the parts to be put back on. I will start tomorrow, Wanted the paint to cure overnight
Nice painting job. Did you do it yourself? What kind spray did you use?

You have to oil the threads and the bottom of the heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Nice painting job. Did you do it yourself? What kind spray did you use?

You have to oil the threads and the bottom of the heads.
Duplicolor engine enamel Aluminum DE1615

I had moly on the threads when I put them in.
 

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Duplicolor engine enamel Aluminum DE1615

I had moly on the threads when I put them in.
No, no, the Moly greasing only applies to the head bolts. The rocker holder bolts go in dry. That is why you stretched the bolt. With them greased you would have to tighten WAY too much to get to that torque reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Broken bolts suck!

I started putting everything back together again. Cleaned checked and put back the two oil pumps. Broke another stud on the main oil pump. Lucky again, the whole bolt came out in one piece. No fishing the broken piece out:smile2: This time with my torque wrench set to 150 inch pounds. What? Ok. Time to back away and figure out what is going on. My 40 year old torque wrench is failing me. I took it all apart, hardened grease and sticky parts, cleaned it and compared it to my foot pound wrench, They both read the same at 10 and 20 foot pounds. Tried it on the pump again and it felt MUCH better.

So I had to order some more studs for the oil pump. I put the lower transmission back in and the shifter forks.
 

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