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Hello all, I just joined the forum to create this post. I have searched for a couple days now and I haven't seen anyone else with my same problem. I also have a post on goldwingdocs but maybe this will have more activity.

I have a 1978 GL1000 I acquired a few weeks ago in Hillard, Ohio. It had an off idle stumble when I first bought but it had been sitting in the PO's garage for a while but started every couple weeks apparently so I thought it was carb issues so I ran a can of seafoam through it to see if it would help it maybe helped a little but not enough. PO had the timing belts done with receipts.

I rode it around thinking it would come out of it but it never did if anything it got worse especially when it got warm after a long ride started having a rough lumpy idle that bonced around on the tach which did not exist when cold. And when it would do this the voltmeter which usually varied from 12-14V would stick around 13V even at speed. I checked the stator wires and they had a weird connector wrapped in an abundance of electrical tape which was all melted together. So I cut that mess out and soldered the wires together and heatshrinked over them.

I then rebuilt the air cut off valve which helped a little but wasnt the main problem.

No change really then I looked at the points which had some pitting and where dirty so I ran some sandpaper over them to clean em up. BIG MISTAKE apparently.

After doing this the bike runs worse warm it still idles fine when first started but after warming up it bogs like its hitting on two cylinders when leaving a stop and threatens to die at lights.

So I looked at the spark plugs and boots 馃槺 the spark plug caps were cracking off and missing chunks and wrapped in electrical tape so I thought this was my problem I replaced the boots with the proper NGK ones with the rubber boots and snipped a little of the end of the spark plug wire which had way too much grease on them and tightened the boots on firmly. I also replaced the spark plugs... no change. The old plugs looked a little lean but no too bad except one just didn't look like it was firing just wet with fuel hmmm. The bike runs great above 3k rpm so idk. But I clearly messed something up cleaning those points so I ordered new ones and a test light so I can re time the bike when they get here on Tuesday.
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After seeing some of the PO's work on the wiring I checked the dogbone fuse which was also covered in electrical tape hiding the rusty connectors and sketchy wires
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so I cut that off and soldered in a marine grade fuse holder with a new 30A fuse.

Then I cleaned up the chassis ground with my small electric dremel tool and added a ground cable from that to the condenser which I saw on randakks website. I also cleaned the condenser ground.

I saw the black wire from the recitfier? I believe had exposed wire so I cut that out and repaired it with solder and heatshrink. I also cleaned the ground on the coils by the stem. I also found a ground loop on one of the hinge mounts for the left side shelter cover i cleaned it and put it back but found out it goes nowhere was this a factory ground?

The PO also wired the electric fan to a switch. Probably cause whatever controls it normally broke. But it worked intermittently which was just some bad wiring and more electrical tape...

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im starting to hate electrical tape. So I repaired the wires going to it and replaced the switch which also had something lose inside causing a bad connection so now the it works great.

I replaced the intake O-rings and tightened the intake boots.

I replaced the front brake hoses cause they were cracked and swelling. Brakes work way better now.

I haven't started the bike yet after doing this work to it but I doubt any of it fixed the problem anyways Im waiting on the new points. The points plate looks like its been messed with before by the stripped out screws but I have a JIS screwdriver that works well on these.

But while I have that coming I would like know is there something I am missing or any mistakes I have made just need some ideas to what is going on.

And opinions on randakks in situ carb cleaning method I have some Berrymans B12 which is pretty strong so I'd like to try that. I don't have the $160 for randakks kit as I am just a broke college student. So it'd be better if i didn't take the carbs apart plus i am kinda intimidated by it.

If you took the time to learn my novel thanks I appreciate it I'd just like to have this bike running reliably so I can commute to school on it if there is school in the fall.
 

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You will have to remove the timing hole cover ( behind the carbs on the left side ) when you get your new points,there is a plug for that with crosshairs for exact timing,These motors setting is the absolute worse thing that can happen,most likely there鈥檚 some derbies in the carb,best to remove them and clean them.
 
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The initial problem sounds like a carb sync issue.
If you can still get OEM carb parts, they may well be cheaper than a Randakk kit.
 

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There is a special tool which is a window into the engine timing marks. I put a black sharpy mark on the timing marks that helped seeing them with a timing light

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you drain the fuel and add fresh?
And check for spark on that wet plug. Clean or replace it

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Ive run several tanks of fuel through it with seafoam by now I think Ive done around 450miles on the bike. I'll check that plug for spark tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The initial problem sounds like a carb sync issue.
If you can still get OEM carb parts, they may well be cheaper than a Randakk kit.
I am going try and make one of those sync tools using fluid. I am going to be looking on ebay for kits and various other parts.
 

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Get the ignition right first, then see if it needs carb work.
 

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I like to set the points with voltmeter,I can be made spot on,but of course it鈥檚 been 45 years since I had to do that,
seems like there was a loaner program here a few years back?you can do it with one vacuu gauge but it鈥檚 time consuming,there鈥檚 one carb that is the one you set the other to,left rear I think.
Yeah what dDave said馃憤
 

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I like to set the points with voltmeter,I can be made spot on,but of course it鈥檚 been 45 years since I had to do that,
seems like there was a loaner program here a few years back?you can do it with one vacuu gauge but it鈥檚 time consuming,there鈥檚 one carb that is the one you set the other to,left rear I think.
Yeah what dDave said馃憤
An analog volt meter or ohm meter, not a digital one. I prefer a test light. 1000s and 1100s synch to the #3 carb, right rear.
 

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My internet diagnosis
***
No change really then I looked at the points which had some pitting and where dirty so I ran some sandpaper over them to clean em up. BIG MISTAKE apparently.

After doing this the bike runs worse
***

David
 

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Wipe points off with contact cleaner after sanding

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That's OK but don't clean the grease off the point cam or put a dab of new grease on it. Drag the corner of a dollar bill between the points to clean them.
 

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Forget "static" settings...go "dynamic" !
I ran points for 30 years on my GL1000, finally discovered (thanx to a Randakk link) how to set
them, (engine running), using an old school DWELL METER...set each of them to exactly 45 degrees dwell, & that's
the best spark you'll get from the points...
Set the timing with an inductive timing light (engine running)...Randakk sells a cool timing wheel for this (pricey)..
then see how the carbs flow, get them right...
then save up money & swap the points for a DYNA electronic ignition setup, best mod you can do!
:cool:
 

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By the way, welcome to the forum, Billy, & in case you don't realize it yet, you have the best Goldwing model (78-79) IMHO, last version of the first generation...
simple, basic, old school, no ABS, FI, Cat Cons, not a single computer chip in sight! It'll still run when the grid goes
down (any day now)...
I've owned my '79 for 31 years now, racked up 160K on her, would never sell her or buy a newer
version (yeah, I still use a flip fone too)... this is a bike you can keep for the rest of your life! but here are a few suspension modifications (and I've tried 'em all over the years) that you must invest in to turn that old mule into a nimble mountain goat:
1) Convert front forks to air forks with aftermarket fork caps (hard to find, but pop up on EBay occasionally, pics below)...O E fork springs are quite sufficient when air assisted...(I run 30 psi)..
GL1000 Air Fork Caps.jpg Fork cap with gage.JPG
2) Replace rear shocks with air shocks (used Progressive Suspension 416's are rebuildable, pop up on EBay occasionally)...O E rear shocks are way too soft...(I run 40-50 psi)...
3) Lose the tubes when you replace the tires, no longer necessary or wanted...
4) Replace the brake rotors with EBC hole-drilled lightweights (very pricey, but very effective)...

These upgrades are a must in my book, first things I would do once you get her running right..
I've also added many incidental circuits, lights, stereo system, Vetter fairing, kickstarter (from an earlier model)...
2nd battery in the charging system (more on that much later..)

Also, when you go into the carbs, the most important thing is too clean absolutely the jets, emulsion tubes (where the real magic happens), & all the air passageways, copious amounts of compressed air needed here! (No B12, too strong, use carb or brake cleaner after boiling the bodies in vinegar/water..replace all internal rubber o rings & bits, you can reuse all the metal bits if properly cleaned..set the float heights per spec & the idle mix screws at 1-1/2 turns out, don't try to adjust them after that, they run best when all 4 are the same setting..

Good luck & Please keep us posted of your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all the replies! After I get this bike running good I intend to keep it for a long time it has only 38k on it so hopefully I'll be able to add many more. Those suspension upgrades are definitely something I'll have to do sometime down the road probably winter after next.

UPDATE:
I got my points in the mail today. I removed the old ones and installed the new ones.

I set the gap initially on the large side .16 and I spun the engine over by hand using the bolt under the cover at the back of engine making sure to only turn it clockwise as to not loosen the bolt. I wired my test light in parallel I believe clamping my alligator clip to the spring on the point and sticking the probe in the bolt hole for the points cover.

But when I turn the motor over the left side points never light the bulb up I tested the bulb on the battery and it does work.

The right side points do light the bulb up but seem to be off on timing. The light comes on a little after the T 2 and goes out after F1. But I don't want to adjust this yet because I believe you are supposed to adjust left side first using the main base plate.

I put my voltmeter on the left side points spade connector and I get 0.01V no matter what but when I put it on the right side points I get around 4.45-5V.

Saw more electrical tape on the wires leading to the points. So I removed the tape and oh big surprise wires twisted together. So I removed the tape soldered the wires together and put heat shrink over them. It did not fix the issue.

The light is also really dim when it does come on but when I connect it to the battery its bright.

I looked at the connector that ties the condenser points and the coil I believe unplugged it and plugged it back it no change.

I will go outside to take some pictures right now to post.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Okay I went outside to take pictures and saw a corner of the little fork connector touching the point base plate so I turned it around so it no longer touches and I get a light now 馃う鈥嶁檪锔 not my sharpest moment. Now im going to attempt to readjust the points so the light comes on at the right time. as a starting point then I will try to "split the difference" according to randakks website.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Okay I went outside to take pictures and saw a corner of the little fork connector touching the point base plate so I turned it around so it no longer touches and I get a light now 馃う鈥嶁檪锔 not my sharpest moment. Now im going to attempt to readjust the points so the light comes on at the right time. as a starting point then I will try to "split the difference" according to randakks website.
I tried to set the timing but the light for the left points stays on no matter what now. But the right side points come on at the F2 mark.
 

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Okay I went outside to take pictures and saw a corner of the little fork connector touching the point base plate so I turned it around so it no longer touches and I get a light now 馃う鈥嶁檪锔 not my sharpest moment. Now im going to attempt to readjust the points so the light comes on at the right time. as a starting point then I will try to "split the difference" according to randakks website.
If you can borrow a dwell meter from an old timer (Auto Zone might still loan them out..) , that is the only way to get perfect point gap adjustment (while it's running, but ya got to get it to run first..) The correct dwell spec is 45 degrees..
 
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