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I never thought of myself being in love with something like a GoldWing until I took one for a ride. It completely blew me away! I bought a 77 GL1000 basket-case about 6 years ago. It wound up having a blown motor but I was able to get another and rebuilt it. I rode the bike to the end of the street and it refused to downshift. Apparently there was someclip that I managed to overlook in the transmission. I ripped the engine down again, replaced the clip, put it back together and then couldn’t get it to run for crap. That was about 2 years ago.

To make a long story short, I bought a parked GL1100 Interstate the other night which inspired me to start working on the GL1000 again. I finished thepaint joband after screwing with the timing for about 45 minutes, got it running great. I was looking forward to taking it for a testride when I got home from work. I fired it up put it in gear, held the clutch in and pushed it forward off of the center stand. It lurched forward, even though I never let the clutch out. I shut it down and adjusted the thumbscrew on the clutch cable but this time when I started it, I got nothing but a kind of high pitched rubbing noise from the engine. It still runs, and it feels like its going through all the gears, but it doesn't go anywhere.

As you can imagine, I'm completely discouraged. I haven't ridden anything in a couple of years (at least nothing of my own) and I'm starting to develop a twitch... I need to get the wind in my hair. I'm tempted to scrap the bike and use the parts to get the 1100 going (Carbs, brake cylinders, wheels) but the 1000 is too pretty to leave sitting. Has anyone experienced this type of problem? It seem obvious that I did something wrong, but maybe there’s an easy fix that allow me not to pull the engine again. If not, does anyone have an engine collecting dust? I'd almost rather swap it than split the cases again.

Thanks,

David
 

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Nice bike Nightflier...Without being there, and guessing a little, it appears the clutch is not freewheeling.. When you put the engine back together and got it running, is it possible the clutch push rod is jammed into the clutch pack? I think it can be repaired without pulling the engine or cracking the case.. The high pitched noise tells me the rod is either extremely dry from lack of lubricant, or it's stuck in the middle of it's throw distance...

With all the work you've done on the bike, it will be difficult to pin this problem down.
 

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That had occurred to me. I thought that even though it had fresh oil (2 years ago) maybe something was gummed up. I put about half a quart of MMO in it and ran it for a couple of minutes to get it circulated and shut it down.



The next part is a little hard to explain. On any other bike I’ve owned, If its not running, I could put it in 1st or second gear. If I tried anything higher, the shift lever would move, but I don't think I could ever feel it shift. I verified this on my 1100, and 1st and second are the only gears i can get. Now on the 1000, the problem bike, I could feel it shift all the way up to 5th gear with the bike not running. I was also able to push the bike around, like it was in neutral in all gears. I could hear some stuff moving around inside, like gears trying to mesh while I did this. I was hoping that if something was gummed up, I’d be able to free it, but no luck.



The clutch lever moves back and forth properly, or at least so it seems. Now that I think about it, I seem to remember having some problems getting the linkage (pushrod) to release when there was no pressure on it, but that was so long ago... the lever seems to be moving back and forth properly now. If nothing else, I think I’ll pull the motor anyway and play with the cutch. I’ll see how much I can do without splitting the cases. I’ve recently upgraded my garage and have two fairly large workbenches that I can put it up on whereas before I was constantly hunched over. It will make it much easier to see and do things.





I might have a line on a 10K short block so if it comes down to it, I’ll probably just go that route.



Thanks for the help

David
 

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Hey Nightflier :waving:Welcome to the best Goldwing Forum on the net. :clapper:

:leprechaun: :18red: :leprechaun:
 

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Nightflier, if it were my Wing I would start diagnosys by removing the swingarm and then removing the clutch cover to inspect the parts inside. This would give you a chance to inspect the swingarm bearings also.

Vic
 

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Thanks, Vic. I hadn't thought of attacking it from the rear, so to speak. I took the swing arm off and Opened up the first cover. I pulled on the clutch lever a few times and could see the shaft the lever attaches tomoving in and out. This seems normal. I then pulled the clutch cover and popped out the Clutch lever cam, Clutch Release shaft and Clutch ball. There appears to be some wear but I think they’re ok (I say this in part because its Sunday and I’m inpatient and don’t want to get new ones I’ll try to attach a blurry picture for a second opinion).

I couldn’t see anything wrong with the clutch itself. It looked like it was positioned correctly. I decided to start pulling the motor. I removed the exhaust and pulled the right cylinder head (yes with the motor still in the bike, its easier to handle by myself that way and it’s a little easier to pull the carbs). I noticed that the top left bolt was significantly longer than the rest and thought maybe I broke the end of the hole when I installed it and something was jamming the gears inside, but upon closer inspection, it looks like the casting allows for a longer bolt in that position. The main output shaft was still spinning freely as well. I pulled the carbs and went to tackle the left side head. Just for grins, I put it into 1[suP]st[/suP] gear and tried to spin the output shaft, it was locked. I put it in neutral and it spun free. Then I put it in second and it locked again. I went back to first and it stayed locked. Back up to second and it stayed locked, back into neutral and it came free again. I tried to get it up into 3[suP]rd[/suP], without spinning the shaft and it wouldn't go. I spun the shaft and I could get it to go through all the gears, up and down, locking in the gear each time. In short, it appears to be acting normally.

I still don’t want to split the cases and I think at this point, I’m going to sleep on it. Does anyone have any thoughts? I think if I put it back together to a running state, without the swing arm, I can run it and test it, but the only thing I could find mildly wrong were the clutch cam/lever/ball, and I still think they’re normal. I’m really uncomfortable putting it together without knowing for sure what was wrong.

Thanks,

David
 

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It appears that your transmission is OK gauging by your post, but, I think that the clutch requires further attention. If the clutch plates are warped or severely dished you can sometimes end up with the type of condition that you describe. Remove the clutch pack and inspect everything for straightness and thickness. All the clutch parts will come out the back except for the clutch basket. Carefully run your fingernail across the splines to check for any wear that may be catching the clutch disks or steels.

Vic
 

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With my 1100, the first start up of the season (after sitting in our wonderful 40 below temps) I'll have the clutch pulled in and when I punch it into 1st, it will lurch ahead on me and stall. I contribute this to the clutch disks getting dried out over the winter. I'll slow roll ahead and punch in 1st and away I go, no further problems till the start up of the next season. This sort of sounds like what yours was doing only a little more severe. Look a little closer at the clutch issue
 

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I should also mention that some clutch disks, especially Barnett's, can become glued together and will not release after sitting unused and compressed for extended periods of time. I've actually had to pull some clutches apart and separate the plates after a winter's sitting. You'll be able to determine this as you pull the clutch disks out one at a time. Also, if there is rust on the clutch steels it can act up in a similar fashion.

Let us know what you find after you get the clutch fully disassembled and inspected.

Vic
 

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Nightflier wrote:
Thanks, Vic. I hadn't thought of attacking it from the rear, so to speak. I took the swing arm off and Opened up the first cover. I pulled on the clutch lever a few times and could see the shaft the lever attaches tomoving in and out. This seems normal. I then pulled the clutch cover and popped out the Clutch lever cam, Clutch Release shaft and Clutch ball. There appears to be some wear but I think they’re ok (I say this in part because its Sunday and I’m inpatient and don’t want to get new ones I’ll try to attach a blurry picture for a second opinion).

I couldn’t see anything wrong with the clutch itself. It looked like it was positioned correctly. I decided to start pulling the motor. I removed the exhaust and pulled the right cylinder head (yes with the motor still in the bike, its easier to handle by myself that way and it’s a little easier to pull the carbs). I noticed that the top left bolt was significantly longer than the rest and thought maybe I broke the end of the hole when I installed it and something was jamming the gears inside, but upon closer inspection, it looks like the casting allows for a longer bolt in that position. The main output shaft was still spinning freely as well. I pulled the carbs and went to tackle the left side head. Just for grins, I put it into 1[suP]st[/suP] gear and tried to spin the output shaft, it was locked. I put it in neutral and it spun free. Then I put it in second and it locked again. I went back to first and it stayed locked. Back up to second and it stayed locked, back into neutral and it came free again. I tried to get it up into 3[suP]rd[/suP], without spinning the shaft and it wouldn't go. I spun the shaft and I could get it to go through all the gears, up and down, locking in the gear each time. In short, it appears to be acting normally.

I still don’t want to split the cases and I think at this point, I’m going to sleep on it. Does anyone have any thoughts? I think if I put it back together to a running state, without the swing arm, I can run it and test it, but the only thing I could find mildly wrong were the clutch cam/lever/ball, and I still think they’re normal. I’m really uncomfortable putting it together without knowing for sure what was wrong.

Thanks,

David
David, even if you split the cases I'm not sure what you will find. With your original problem of the CLUTCH STAYING ENGAGED & not releasing,, then your follow up problem of the the bike not pulling when in gear it sure points to a sticking clutch (somewhere). I guess if it were me I would pull the clutch plates out & verify everything in the clutch slides smoothly & moves smoothly. Make sure the clutch actuating parts are not causing the problem.

Twisty
 

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Thanks guys... This gives me the added comfort I needed to stop ripping it apart. I decided to put it on a backburner yesterday and started working on the 1100 dresser I just bought instead (That’s another thread in of itself).



I’ll pull the clutch plates out and check them after work today. It makes a lot of sense that that could be the source of my problems. I’ll let you all know what I find.



Thanks again,

David
 

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Nightflier wrote:
Thanks, Vic. I hadn't thought of attacking it from the rear, so to speak. I took the swing arm off and Opened up the first cover. I pulled on the clutch lever a few times and could see the shaft the lever attaches tomoving in and out. This seems normal. I then pulled the clutch cover and popped out the Clutch lever cam, Clutch Release shaft and Clutch ball. There appears to be some wear but I think they’re ok (I say this in part because its Sunday and I’m inpatient and don’t want to get new ones I’ll try to attach a blurry picture for a second opinion).

I couldn’t see anything wrong with the clutch itself. It looked like it was positioned correctly. I decided to start pulling the motor. I removed the exhaust and pulled the right cylinder head (yes with the motor still in the bike, its easier to handle by myself that way and it’s a little easier to pull the carbs). I noticed that the top left bolt was significantly longer than the rest and thought maybe I broke the end of the hole when I installed it and something was jamming the gears inside, but upon closer inspection, it looks like the casting allows for a longer bolt in that position. The main output shaft was still spinning freely as well. I pulled the carbs and went to tackle the left side head. Just for grins, I put it into 1[suP]st[/suP] gear and tried to spin the output shaft, it was locked. I put it in neutral and it spun free. Then I put it in second and it locked again. I went back to first and it stayed locked. Back up to second and it stayed locked, back into neutral and it came free again. I tried to get it up into 3[suP]rd[/suP], without spinning the shaft and it wouldn't go. I spun the shaft and I could get it to go through all the gears, up and down, locking in the gear each time. In short, it appears to be acting normally.

I still don’t want to split the cases and I think at this point, I’m going to sleep on it. Does anyone have any thoughts? I think if I put it back together to a running state, without the swing arm, I can run it and test it, but the only thing I could find mildly wrong were the clutch cam/lever/ball, and I still think they’re normal. I’m really uncomfortable putting it together without knowing for sure what was wrong.

Thanks,

David
When you remove the clutch parts you may find nothing at all wrong becausethe problemmay have simply been the clutch plates sticking to the steels, but, look carefully at all of the clutch componentsfor odd wear patterns before you do reassemble it. Once you do get it all back together you can check to see if the clutch releases without running the engine by compressing the clutch lever fullyand then rotating the output shaft while the trans in gear.

Vic
 

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I finally got the clitch "pack" out thismorning. While inspecting each plate, I wondered if they were installed correctly. Because my bike was a basket case when I got it, I've got tons of parts. I was able to dig out another clutch basket for it but didn't know if that one had been dissassembled either.

I went through my book and found that I did in fact have some of the plates backwords, but not all of them. I noticed a small nick out of one of the plates in addition to having a good deal of grime between the "pads" Both sets of disks are worn almost exactly the same ( 0.137) and the one I dug out of a milk crate is considerably cleaner. I think between the two I can have a working clutch. Is Kerosene the only things I can clean these with or can I get away with mineral Sprits?

Thanks,

David
 

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Just a thought: did you check the condition of your final drive splines on the rear wheel hub? I had a 76 GL 1000 once that had not been properly maintained and both the drive and coast splines had 50% wear. I found out what that meant on long trip when they sheared off completely, leaving me stranded. At first, i thought the clutch was blown, as the motor spun, but no movement in gear. Pretty fun trying to locate a vintage wing differential in the middle of nowhere. I did get one though, 3 hours away! So, if output shaft is functional, and clutch pack is good, might look there?
 

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All,

Thanks you again for the advice, I believe I have found the problem. I put the clutch back together, the right way and all the other crap I took off went back on (Except the swing arm). I fired her up and ran through the gears. Everything was fine. This made me optimistic, so I went and had dinner with some friends but turned down the rest of the parties and binge drinking and came home to put the swing arm on and take it for a ride.

I got the arm on, changed the gear oil in the diff and started her up again. I got her up to fifth and then started to rev it a little and pop! there’s the noise again, and it won't shift anymore. A lesser man would have been saying bad words right about now, and I believe I am that lesser man.

I let it idle and I listened then it occurred to me. When I put the drive shaft on the output shaft of the transmission, I had to use a pry bar to pull the shaft all the way up onto the output shaft, I pulled the boot back and sure as sh#! it was off. I remember now the stupid little cir-clip that goes on the end of the output shaft to secure the drive shaft(that also makes lesser men like myself say bad things, and then I said a few more -but these were happy kick-myself-in-the-butt bad things). I have no idea what happened to this clip, but I'm sure that it is the source of my headaches this past week. I'll be stopping at Ace tomorrow when I get off of work for a new one. Then, God willing, I will ride this 5-fricken year project.

Anyway, thanks again. I really think this is the problem, but if not, I’ll probably write again crying and asking someone to send me a spare engine.

David
 
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