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Discussion Starter #1
please help i have single weber 32/36 on a 1976 Gl1000 with electronic fuel pump and ignition. MY PROBLEM IS WHEN I GO ACCELERATE QUICKLY MY BIKE BOGS AND DIES. is this because i need to rejet the carbs ???? and if so what kind of jet would i use ?
 

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IMHO: Problems with accelerating depend on manifold tubes' length with regards to single carb. New tubes are twice or even triple longer than OEM. As a result it causes icing (I don't know if your new manifold are heated or not). And this in turn causes problems while accelerating. If your bike starts and idles great but dies when accelerating that is 99% icing issue but jets.

Regards,

Sergey
 

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IMHO: Problems with accelerating depend on manifold tubes' length with regards to single carb. New tubes are twice or even triple longer than OEM. As a result it causes icing (I don't know if your new manifold are heated or not). And this in turn causes problems while accelerating. If your bike starts and idles great but dies when accelerating that is 99% icing issue but jets.

Regards,

Sergey[/QUOTE
Might be true but a bog is almost always because of a lean fuel condition. Icing could cause this especially in cool weather. Not jets though. Accelerator pump issues would be my first check assuming timing is known to be correct and bike runs well in all other conditions. If possible try a little choke and see if that helps. Bet it will. At least you can be sure it's a fuel issue then.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i will increase the fuel ratio hopefully that help THANK U ALL FOR THE HELP!!!!

thank you this seems a little practical seeing that i live in LA and the weather is always warm i know it gets cold cuz of icing and I've felt it and have seen it. But this is what i have done to help with the icing i took out the wind/heat shield that is on the motor mounts so the heat from the radiator passes and hits the manifold
 

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Check your fuel pump flows and pressures and when testing hold hose at least as high or a little higher as carb inlet.
 

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I take it the bog will occur under hard acceleration from stop to highway speeds.

If after rolling off the throttle as opposed to just holding open it seems to help the engine recover you are most likely running the carb dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I take it the bog will occur under hard acceleration from stop to highway speeds.

If after rolling off the throttle as opposed to just holding open it seems to help the engine recover you are most likely running the carb dry.
Yes i can get it going idle but when i wana get on it like u stated from stop to high way speed it bogs.

If i am running the carb dry what can i do help or fix this problem ? bigger fuel pump ?im running 3-4 psi fuel pump
 

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Hopefully you bypassed the OEM pump completely and did not simply install in line.

Take the hose off the carb and point it away from bike holding up high towards the grass or into container. Hot wire the pump to run for 10-15 seconds and check output.

If all you get is a dribble you got a restriction/pump problem. Should be a nice steady smooth flow.
 

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Just a 170 air jet is all Jake used. Pretty cool mods he has if you like the naked look. http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=42352&hilit=Weber&start=30

A few guys have had trouble making 32/36 work. But I just paid for one this morning, so let us know how yours does. Some improved it with a little smaller intake runners to keep the mixture speed moving. You could easily experiment by sticking tubes in what you already have. Remove the intake elbows and slide in. Nice thing about the Weber is the jets are all easily accessible. In cool climates, you may need some heat on the manifold to prevent icing. To rule out icing (maybe), place a hair dryer/heat gun on the manifold to warm it up. Some have welded water jackets to the bottom, some have used small electric heaters attached to the base.
 

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check out this link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHuuRdwyKIE

wingnut has a number of videos out and in one of them he gave instructions that got rid of his bog. it included blocking off the small hole in botttom of carb and bending the fuel input so it sprayed straight into the throat and not the side of the chamber, claims that fixed the problem, but check out his videos, i am in the midst of making the change on my 84 aspencade
 

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That's a totally different carb than a 32/36, but I do remember some guys who set 32/36's up for racing, I think it was Lotus, also do a significant mod to where the fuel is sprayed. I'll try and find it. I think I have it bookmarked on my other computer.
 

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badorderbob runs a 32/36.
PM him for his jetting.
I believe he rides a 1000.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thnk you for all ur guys help found out what the problem is the primary barrel/ port has gas running through it obviously to keep it idling but when the secondary port opens no gas what so ever poors out of it
 

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Not familiar with that particular carb but in general you should not see fuel dribbling down a barrel at idle. The only fuel being delivered should be below the throttle plate via the idle circuit.

The secondary will only pull fuel through when venturi vacuum is strong enough to pull through the venturi fuel nozzle, you will not see it just opening a barrel at idle or for that matter just lite revving. Sufficient engine vacuum is required.
 

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The accelerator pump only functions on the primary.


DriverRider is correct - ...at idle, you should see no fuel if looking down the throat of the primary.

I'll guess that your float level is too high...
 

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Did you correct the problem?

A 32/36 has a pretty large, cast-in and non-removable primary venturi ("choke" - 26mm) that Weber calculates as being too large for our 4-cylinder displacements.

My experience in using that carburetor led me to using a carburetor that incorporates a smaller primary venturi.
Tuning for drivability problems will be an endless effort and have you settling for something less than optimal. Transitioning from primary to secondary will never be seamless because of the too large primary venturi never being properly activated to become properly tuned.
Too large of a carburetor. ..

A smaller, NEW carburetor is available that may solve problems that you may, or may not, be aware of.

Check the thread stickied at the top of the Tech Forum, or the Reference Forum, for the carburetor most all of us are now using. A slight modification in opening-up the base flange mounting holes with a chainsaw file is required to mount it to you manifold.

Bolt-on and go with this carburetor - no recalibration required (and less than $100).

Let us know where you're at in any recalibration you've done with that 32/36. ...
 

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So, ...what did you do?

I'll assume it is too much fuel.
Usually the case with a "as-bought and bolted on" Weber 32/36.
 
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