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I’ve finally got my 77GL1000 to the point where it goes but now it won’t stop going. As soon as I put it in gear, it takes off. If I’m not quick about it, it’ll stall out but I have managed to ride it a couple of times now (which is nice after 5 years of owning it and not being able to) and it goes through all the gears and seems to run fine. I’ve taken out the clutch and soaked all the disks in oil. When putting it back together, everything seems to spin free until I put the springs in. I’ve adjusted the clutch according to the book which calls for 5/8[suP]th[/suP] of an inch of play in the handle. I’ve also made it so there was no play and the clutch cable is once and tight, but it still wants to go. The clutch plates are well within spec (0.037) but should I replace them anyway?



Also, what is the normal vacuum supposed to be while syncing the carburetors? I attempted this last night and was getting about 5 lbs at an idle. This seemed awfully low. I did notice a crack in one of the manifolds, but I’d think that would only affect one carb. (I have a spare set of carbs that I’ll be pulling a replacement off of tonight). The bike seems to run pretty well for the carbs not being synched, but I think there may be something wrong with my gauges on the carb synch tool.



Anyway, just wondering what other experiences have led to.

Thanks,

David
 

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Looks as though you still have some clutch problems.. Do you have a picture repair manual in front of you? Are the clutch plates in the correct sequence and position? Also, if the plates do not free-wheel when the lever is depressed, the plates will grag the clutch pack and drag along with the flywheel. You should be able to depress the clutch lever and be in gear with the engine running without the bike moving.. If it wants to move, then the clutch has some problems, or the clutch cable may be damaged and not allowing the full throw of the rod in the release bearing.. That's all there is.. There ain't no more..

Now to the engine.. Is the idle set to specs? High engine idle rpm will wreak havock with the clutch adjustment AND carb balance.. Balancing is NOT performed by vacuum pressure. It is based on the one carb that cannot be adjusted.. Whichever carb that is, (usually #4), you set all the other carbs to the setting from that one carb. What ever it shows on the vacuum guage.. If it shows 5", then all the carbs are set at 5". If it shows 12", then all the carbs are set at 12"..The idle rpm must also be set at the same time so they all read the same vacuum at curb idle..

Keep us posted...Renegade
 

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David,

It's like renegade stated about the clutches.... I hate to say it, but it sounds like they need to come out again & be rechecked.....:?

As far as carb sync, 5 lb. about right at idle. They all sync off of you number one carb. balance 1 to 3, then 2 to 4 then left to right. Repeat until all read the same.



Good Luck!!
 

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As Frenchy and Renegade are saying, you got a clutch problem. Don't worry about the carbs because the clutch has to be solved first. If the clutch plates are a bit worn that should make them release easier not more difficultly unless you've got some warped ones in there. I wouldn't expect the clutch to spin free with the springs in, it should be solidly engaged and stay that way until the clutch cable linkage releases the spring pressure to disengage the clutch. Can you feel or hear the clutch operate at all when operating the lever with the engine shut off? If the clutch release bearing is being moved as it should about the only thing that's left might be warped plates or an error in assembly.
 
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