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putting on new head gaskets and removed cam on rt side and left cam attached on lt side . Have the head gaskets and heads and cams on but not torqued yet. I have a gl1200 manual ,gives some help but not tech stuff for this engine. first time doing this engine , so any tips you know would be appreciated. arlin
 

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Arlin, you can download a GL1000 Factory .pdf manual here.

When it comes to valve adjusts on a stock engine, I do it by feel and sound.

I think the book calls for .002 clearance. I'm certain I run 'em a bit tighter most times, but not by much.

I've a technique that has my wrist and hand at almostvibratory speed with a fingered grip on a giving rocker to detect a certain pitch in the "clink" I hear when the rocker makes contact with a valve stem head. Not much movement at all, but I've good ears still and it works for me.

Sometimes setting to factory spec on a even slightly worn engine, let alone a loose one,may have it sounding like a soupcan full of nuts and bolts. So, I've all but giving up on feeler gauges for the most part as I deal with mainly older bikes that others simply want running as best it can.

Times are tight, and so are these clearances. :smiler:
 

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The book calls for .004 on both the intake and exhaust, with the engine stone cold. I never have any problem using that number. The 1200 is a whole different beast because it has hydraulic tappets.

Steve
 

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You turn the crank/stator to T1 and set 4 of the valves the loose ones then turn 360 to T1 and set the other four...004
 

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.004, my mistake. I couldn't recall exactly. I usually use those "Go/No Go" sets and only recall using the first gauge on a set of 'em and thinking it was the tighter of the two figures.
 

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thanks so much , your, as always so helpful , the down load is great , one to save for future. arlin
 
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