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...an update:

I found time to get the 1100 coils moved to the rear. The bike is down due to my jumping-the-gun on this and it's killing me... :ROFL:
I've a longer harness I use to move them behind the manifold but will wire them directly for the interim.
 

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where do I get the plug and play on this ...? Or the info setup to do this also o you know who to check the timing spring loaded mechanism on a gl1000
 

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Discussion Starter #24
where do I get the plug and play on this ...? Or the info setup to do this also o you know who to check the timing spring loaded mechanism on a gl1000
...what do you want?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
A bit off topic but someone asked about the ignition set-up that I'm running now. Particularly about the secondary wires. I can't find where it is that I posted about the stuff.
So, ...here is the short version of the HT leads:

Scosche oxygen-free amplifier power cable; 8 gauge
The outside diameter of the jacketing fits the boot covers perfectly, meaning nice and tight as the factory wires do. The wires have a very high strand count and are flexible. The jacketing comes in various colors if desired. I use blue...
The wires attach as the factory secondary wires attach. No modification in assembly. I use ignition grease on the ends of the wires before insertion into the coils and the plug boots. Ignition grease has held-up well even though the issue of dissimilar metals would normally have me using something more appropriate. Due to the voltage, I find the ignition grease doing what it is supposed to do for this app, ...keep oxidation to minimum.

The boots have copper-clad steel pins replacing the resistor and spring in each boot. I forget the exact length right now. mm's are in the teens I believe. 17 sounds familiar but measure it or find my thread on this for the exact number. I also use dual spring-clip screws in the boots so as to have twice the surface contact of the clip to the plug end. Dual-clip screws DO NOT come with new NGK boots. I source them from older, big-cc parts bikes. They use to be factory on the larger displacement Jap-bikes from the late 70's to the mid 80's. Necessary? I buy into it...

Some pics below but, there's a thread here on it somewhere. Right now, ...I just can't find it and time is short today...

Edit: I'm mobile and have a crappy connection. I'll get pics up later. I'll try again to find the thread later...
 

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Nice looking installation!
Here's a write up on my GL1100 4 coil set up, using Ford COP coils http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=50431
The timing problem you're having sounds like coil pairs being wired in parallel. It's possible to use parallel wiring, but need to use isolation diodes. The diodes should be rated at least 15 amp 1000 volts.
Easier to use series, but if the coils have high resistance (over 2 ohm), probably stuck using them in parallel to get decent current.
 

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Nice CM85,

Always a good read, and to see, you experimenting on new stuff.

Very interesting!

I am using the GL1500 coils they are the MP08 coils on my 83' GL1100.

As a Wasted spark Ignition.

I removed the Ballast Resistor, and have not had any troubles at all.

I have bought a pair of GL1500 Pulse generators just In case i need to upgrade, on my 83' GL1100.

This setup seems to work great for my basically stock rebuilt bike.

Stock other than a Single carb conversion, Thanks CM85.

I have a much hotter spark now, than I did before.

But, my stock coils, were out of tolerance.

When i removed the ballast resistor, I measured the voltage to/through the coils, and it is higher.

I gapped the plugs wider than i had them with the stock coils, and the spark is a wider, & a brighter spark than it has ever been with that bike.

Engine starts instantly.

I also put a relay, before the Ignition switch, for full voltage.

A relay before the fuse panel, and direct to the battery, with 12ga wire.
 

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2000 GL1500 SEI Trike, 1985 GL1200 , 1972 Honda CB750, 1996 Honda VT1100, 2019 HD Low Rider
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Just thinking loudly here today....
What about an Arduino controlling GM's LS2 coils?
 

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OK, so I'm a newbie on this forum and showed up to this party a year late, but can't we pick it back up?

Oh, so much to comment about. I'm reading a lot of assumptions and misunderstandings here. Might have to take this day-by-day!

First, Cap'n, please bring me up to speed on this sensor system you have installed. Do you have any specs on it to share?

Second, the use of the word "digital" is so overused today! Basically, when applied to ignition systems it means nothing more than on-or-off. Hey! We had digital way back when the spark-fired, internal combustion engine was invented!

Anyway, so much for a low-level attempt at humor.

As for coils, SIZE MATTERS! Especially for where you are trying to take your engine project, Cap'n! Cramming more fuel/air, and other "stuff" (NOS), into the cylinder to gain more power drives the required voltage up to fire the plug. Those little coils you guys are trying to use just aren't going to cut it with seriously increased performance. Some others of you are talking about simply improving the performance of a basically stock engine, like making it easier to start and not misfire at higher rpms. That's fine to use smaller coils. But, if you do anything to bump the engines output, ignition is the first place to start to provide adequate support for other improvements. If you can't fire the added fuel/air, it's a waste! Those small coils are targetted for the power requirements of most stock engines, and when you push them too far the higher voltage requirements will eat them alive! Why do you think that the super-high output AA/fuel drag engines use no coil at all, but a direct magneto and lots of insulation? It's also why aftermarket makers like Mallory and Accel have developed their own dielectric materials to handle the higher voltages required by drag racing engines.

I would like to start by explaining why a couple of you have commented about seeing a "hotter" spark. First, unless you are running a capacitive discharge coil driver, the spark intensity is solely determined by the conditions at the spark gap. In free air, that's pretty low, like around 3200 volts. If you did see a marked improvement from some change you made, then you had a serious fault before the change and were getting a sub-par spark from your coil. A coil, when driven by 12 volts, and allowed to fire the plug upon the NATURAL COLLAPSE of the magnetic field across the secondary will discharge across the plug only when it develops up to the exact voltage needed to jump the gap, and no more. When you add more fuel/air, or increase the compression pressure, then it requires more voltage to push the spark across that gap. Most passenger car engines when idling will require about 5200 volts to fire a proper fuel/air mixture in about a 9.5:1 compression engine with plugs gapped at around .030".

A capacitive discharge coil driver will change the whole ignition system dramatically. Please read my "balloon" analogy at the link below to understand why. It's all in post #12. Then ask any questions.

I don't want to repeat myself, so here is the link to the thread about my old GL1000 hot rod project where I have already gone into more depth than I planned to about it's ignition system.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/543642-one-36-year-old-hot-rod-2.html
 

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You're right about all of that trikebldr but most of us are not going to go to the trouble of doing a major ignition modification. I experimented and found a simple change to a stock dodge neon coil on 1100s and 1200s made a significant seat of the pants improvement and that's good enough for me and several others who have followed and done the same thing. Not to diminish your work as it is very interesting reading and good information for someone wanting to get all they can out of their vintage bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I agree with both you and Dave 100%.

The basics are missing. Not necessarily from me though.
Anyway, I chose The MP-08's over the stick-coils that everyone else was going with at the time ..for their size.
I road-mapped my plan in the opening post just as I had it on paper. I always start with pen and paper first.
"Digital" summarizes much.

I sure like keeping things period to the daily-rider '78.
If I'm doing something to that bike, my overall goal has been to keep it relatively simple and not go beyond early-80's technology. To date, whatever has been done to it could've been duplicated back in '82.
Though those coils depart from that ideological viewpoint, it would give the visual appearance of not doing so while dramatically improving my ignitions capabilities.

Changes have since happened.

I had to replace the engine in the daily-rider due to a spun bearing. The rotating assembly uses a altered crankshaft.
I built that destroked engine for sustained high-rpm use above the factory redline. That engine was redesigned for use with DOHC heads.
The only original part in the bottom-end is the crank which had the rod journals altered and, as you know because of that, everything else changed, including the top-end, stock heads or not..
That engine is a mix of manufactures.
This is where you now come into the game.

I had help from someone in California.

I had jumped the gun in starting this thread thinking evolution would be nice as a tool for teaching.
For other reasoning I chose to leave this thread alone despite having completed the goal myself quietly.
This set-up is capable. That is the word, "capable".
For the average Schmo, thos is incredibly cost effective.

I had become so muddied in the effort of trying get a base understanding together, starting with terminology, that "digital" was good-enough for me at the time if that is what is understood.
I had given-up on passive participation.

How about this: I am now the recipient of passive information.
Seeing that picture of your bike using that simple ignition solution for a single-fire ...had never crossed my mind. That bothers me.

I am done giving passively for some very good reasons.
What I am seeing elsewhere today with a ignition manufacturer and another forum will eventually play itself out in a unhealthy and epitomized kind of way. I could be wrong.
I am done with this thread.
 
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