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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the scenario.
1- 1979 GL1000 has sticky sliders & intermittent running issue -fuel related.
2- owner has set of early GL110 carbs rebuilt about 10 years ago but never used
3 - The GL110 butterflies & chokes are frozen
4 -I order Randakk's Master Rebuild kit & rebuild the carbs
- I also install the new aluminum fuel filter from Randakk's
5 - I set the floats to the GL1100 spec's
- At first I set the idle jets @ 3 turns but shortly after running for 5 minutes the left bank starts smoking
- adjust inwards and it clear up.
- the plenum starts to show signs of leakage so off come the carbs again and have plenum flattened at local machine shop.
6- after re-assembling the bike runs great the first day.
7 - the next day the #2 cylinder doesn't fire and fouls out the plug
8 - Check the ignition and find #2 wire has worked its' way loose from the coil
-could have been disturbed when I removed & installed the air box..
9 - new plug and bike runs better but not good.
10 - re-balancing carbs helps but still no good..

I'm at a loss here as this is the first time I have upgraded GL1100 carbs onto a GL1000.

Is there something simple or major I am missing here?

You input is greatly appreciated as always!
 

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Probably something still not right in the carbs or have you verified the ignition system is working properly? The points and timing are critical to it running right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the bike has dyna coils & electronic ignition.
I am installing new spark plugs.

I've been reading about others having great success but others having the same issues as me.
 

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As a mechanic you have to test components and diagnose what the engine is trying to tell you.

Carbs that were rebuilt from some guy 10 years ago, but he was good or the bike ran fine up until 6 months ago when I got out of bed turned the key and it was running crummy. More like it never ran good and it was 5 years ago. I just gotta :ROFL:.

Unknown to you engine may not be capable of ever running right without doing a compression test first for general health of the inners. Then you move on to the ign system for spark health. Does it backfire or pop through the carbs, then we go to ign timing issues assuming cylinders are getting fuel. Then check fuel delivery system. Are vacuum hoses missing or cracked. Then move to carbs to get it running.

Then diagnose which cylinders are the troubled ones and whether it is rich or lean. Pull the plugs, is one or more gas soaked and others dry. Start it up when cold and shut right down, feel the headers, is one or more cold. Etc, Etc,Etc.

Pulling plug wires and a can of carb clean spray will help you quickly isolate the problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will walk through it tonight.
Strangely enough, the #2 cylinder was showing condensation on the intake down spout which is a first for me.
 

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Here is the scenario.
1- 1979 GL1000 has sticky sliders & intermittent running issue -fuel related.

6- after re-assembling the bike runs great the first day.

7 - the next day the #2 cylinder doesn't fire and fouls out the plug
8 - Check the ignition and find #2 wire has worked its' way loose from the coil
-could have been disturbed when I removed & installed the air box..
9 - new plug and bike runs better but not good.
Back to dave's question. Have you checked to see what the timing is doing when it runs bad?
The original carbs had an intermittent fuel related problem, the 1100 carbs have an intermittent fuel related problem? Is it possible it never was fuel, but timing/electronic ignition?
 

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The original carbs had an intermittent fuel related problem, the 1100 carbs have an intermittent fuel related problem? Is it possible it never was fuel, but timing/electronic ignition?
Exactly, there is no reason it would not run well with 1100 carbs. It might run differently but still should run evenly. I have worked on a couple 1000s with 1100 carbs and they ran just fine. Have one out in my shop right now. If you are sure everything is copacetic in the carbs look elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Exactly, there is no reason it would not run well with 1100 carbs. It might run differently but still should run evenly. I have worked on a couple 1000s with 1100 carbs and they ran just fine. Have one out in my shop right now. If you are sure everything is copacetic in the carbs look elsewhere.
Good morning everyone, good points mentioned all around.

I didn't have an opportunity to investigate last night but should have tonight.
I agree & think I am looking at something other than the carbs.

The original carbs did have a lot of sludge in the bowls

The original fuel filter had separated (typical Emco Filter):lash:
I just have to take my time and walk through diagnosing all circuits to find the issue.

I'll post an update as I find what is really going on.
 

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Remember that Honda matched the carb.s not only to the engine size, but also the camshafts. Interchanging will effect how the bike runs, similar but maybe not as much as say a single carb conversion might.


Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
quick update.
I checked the Electronic ignition and found the mechanical advance was gummed up. - I freed that up
I found a small trace burn on the back of the adapter plate - I re-soldered the trace.

I replaced the #2 spark plug and it fired up and ran well.
I balanced the carbs again and took it out for a spin.

Lost #2 Cylinder bout 5 minutes into the ride...
I now think it is a coil issue

If it was the dyna ignition, I would expect to lose 2 cylinders not just 1

I plan to swap ignition wires tonight to see if I lose another cylinder instead of the #2 cylinder.
This will definitely prove the coil being at fault.
 

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Make sure that all of the carbs on the replacement rack are the same model.It sounds strange but I've run into "professionally" rebuilt carb sets were someone replaced one of the carbs with one from a different year bike and especially with the 1100 carbs all of the years are different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Make sure that all of the carbs on the replacement rack are the same model.It sounds strange but I've run into "professionally" rebuilt carb sets were someone replaced one of the carbs with one from a different year bike and especially with the 1100 carbs all of the years are different.
Good point.
I'll double check that if I have to pull them again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Quick update...

Switching the spark plug wires made no difference.
#2 cylinder dropped out almost immediately.

So the carbs come off tonight and I will clean up the old carbs and put them back into service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay, so I have a quick update on this issue(s)

I found the electronic ignition had a bad trace
I found the mechanical advances were seized up
I cleaned the original carbs and re-installed them

It runs much better now that I also polished the sliders from the original set of carbs.
I sync'd them up and the bike runs much better but still has a popping from time to time. - most likely from the deteriorating exhaust system.
One baffle is totally missing and the other may not as well be there.:? it is louder than a normal GL1000 should be.
The bike likes to have the throttle on or gear up to force more fuel into the engine under load then it is much happier.

Again I think it is due to the exhaust not providing the back pressure that it normally would.

Giving it back to the owner today and hope they are happy with it:praying:

On a side note: the GL1100 Carbs were all the same model.
I think the #2 carb has underlying issues that I have not solved yet. - maybe a bad float or needle & seat.
 

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I have a '77 GL1000. I've had the carbs apart so many times i worn out the float bowl treads. Be sure check the plenum gasket between the 2 halves of the carb banks. I've had 2 go bad because of the ethanol in today's fuel, you will get an intake runner "ice up" and the plug will fowl. Always use the original air filter not a K&N or foam filter otherwise you will suffer from a "flat spot" at about 3500 RPM when accelerating.
 
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