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I would never secure the engine in my bike with threaded rod. Respectfully I think it is just too weak and my experience through out my life has shown that to be true many times. A threaded rod does not even have the strenth of a grade 2 or Class 8.8 metric bolt. I Googled "is thread rod as strong as a grade 2 bolt and got this.
Because the minor diameter (valley) of the threads is significantly less than the full size diameter of the shank on a headed bolt, the rod with nut often breaks at a much lower strength than a headed bolt. More importantly, even if the rod with nut does develop enough strength to meet the specification, it will often break at the junction of the nut which is acting as the head of the bolt when wedge tested per ASTM F606. For this reason, technically a rod with nut in lieu of a headed bolt will frequently fail mechanical testing because the head (nut in this case) comes off before the bolt breaks in the body or threaded section of the fastener which constitutes an automatic failure.
If it was holding on my muffler maybe but would it hold my engine? What about a crash? FWIW just my opinion. :)
Well, seems like you are going to have a washer and nut set up no matter what you do. Can't see how having that on both ends would make it that much weaker.
 

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Dennis,
It is a matter of quality and design. If I took a 12mm threaded rod about a foot long, I could bend it over my knee.
A class 10.9 or even 8.8 would break your leg. Here is a good article from the experts.

 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thanks again everyone, looks like I will go stainless threaded rod until I can source a bolt. The fact that there was nothing there on a running bike is a worry in itself.
 

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Be sure to NOT use stainless steel nuts on the stainless rod. This is a bad combo, stainless threads against stainless threads have a tendancy to gall, effectively welding the nuts to the rod and you'll never get them off..
 

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I have all thread at that location. The original bolt wasn't long enough to accomodate the case guards I installed. Been there for 13 years and 50k miles.
The weight of the engine is equally distributed across the length of the bolt. Plus engine weight is supported by upper hangers. It is physically impossible for that rod to bend. Not a good comparison to bending over your knee with a center pressure point.
 

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I have all thread at that location. The original bolt wasn't long enough to accomodate the case guards I installed. Been there for 13 years and 50k miles.
The weight of the engine is equally distributed across the length of the bolt. Plus engine weight is supported by upper hangers. It is physically impossible for that rod to bend. Not a good comparison to bending over your knee with a center pressure point.
A lot of them do for that very reason. The original bolt is not long enough for some engine guards, I suppose it came as part of the kit.
 

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Yes it was included with the guards.
 

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I guess I was out voted on this one. It's just that I remember several times using threaded rod and had issues like it broke or would loosen etc. :)
 

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Good evening all, I have been a regular stalker around for some time and the help you guys give each other is invaluable, however I now have a request for those in the know. I recently purchased a 76LTD GL1000 to restore and all was going well until I discovered the previous owner had the cut the front hanger bolts off at both end due to not be able to remove it. (Not Ideal) Any way I have now removed what was left of the bolt but I need the dimensions of the bolt to source a new one. I am away from home with work at the moment and it looks like when I get home everything will be shut due to this rotten virus, so I would like to order a suitable bolt on line if possible.

Does anyone know the exact dimensions required? I think its a 12mm bolt but have no idea about the length.....ANY help greatly appreciated.
There are 12mm threaded rods on EBay right now, class 8.8, 1 & 2 meters long, some in the US , some in China..!;)
 

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There are 12mm threaded rods on EBay right now, class 8.8, 1 & 2 meters long, some in the US , some in China..!;)
You bring up a good point. Like all bolts aren't the same it is true of threaded rod. I know there are several types of stainless as well. There is one stainless that is equal to grade 2. Hate to see him pay a bunch for stainless only to find steel would be cheaper and better. Might be worth a few minutes on the computer to check it out. :)
 

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I guess I was out voted on this one. It's just that I remember several times using threaded rod and had issues like it broke or would loosen etc. :)
No doubt the normal threaded rod is pretty sorry but it has it's uses.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hi again guys, and thanks again. I have organised some 8.8 rod from my local bolt shop ( I used to do the purchasing for them and remembered we did carry it). The wife has now picked this up for me. I will use this until until a bolt pops up on flea bay or similar down here.

Cheers,
JT
 
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