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Ok, so I pretty much have the bike stripped down to nothing but the front end, meaning the front tire and forks, and pulling the engine and transmission. I noticed when i pulled the fuel tank and tried to dump the fuel, LOL, only a bunch of rust fell out. So i removed the sending unit which i will need to replace, and noticed the fuel lines in the tank and the filter doesnt look to good either. So the question is.....(1)How do I remove the filter that is inside the tank AND (2) What do I do to remove the rust and contaminants inside the tank???? Believe me all help is encouraged and very much appreciated.



Mark:claps:Ya'll are great!!!
 

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There are many topics here about this. A week-long soak in 5 gallons of white vinegar will do wonders.

You can also look up electrolysis. I have done both. Vinegar requires nothing but time.

My sender was rusted pretty badly. I soaked that in vinegar and it also works great now.

The filter inside is just a screen, actually two, one on the end of each pickup tube. They cannot be removed. They are welded in place.

You can blow some air and then some fluid through the holes for the petcock to clear out the pickup lines.

Even after a good cleaning, be ready to go through a couple of fuel filters in the first few weeks.

I have a small hole in my main pickup tube that shows up when I burn exactly two gallons of gas from a full tank. I then have to switch to reserve. I have been trying to figure out a way to repair the tube and or the screens and I may have it figured out. This winter I am going to test my idea. Every where I have searched, the answer is that the tank is shot if the pickups are busted. I hope to have a solution.
 

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Thanks a big bunch, I guess a trip to the ole grocery store is in order. Thanks again I'll give it a try and see what happens.

Mark
 

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Mine wasn't really that bad but the vinegar worked great. Flush a couple of times with water, dry with old blowdryer and wd-40the hell out of it to prevent flash over. Fill it to the top with half a bottle of seafoam in for good measure.
 

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Thanks Judd, I looked at the site and it sounds promising. I may try the old vinegar trick for starters just to see how it works or if it works.



Thanks again, Mark
 

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Thanks SMC, I think I'm going to try it that way too, at least to start and see how it goes. May end up buying the Por15 kit, just don't know yet.
 

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FireLT wrote:
Thanks SMC, I think I'm going to try it that way too, at least to start and see how it goes. May end up buying the Por15 kit, just don't know yet.
Careful with any tank liners. They can block up the screens.

Once you get the tank clean, if you keep gas in it, it cannot rust.
 

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This is how I did mine.......1st did the vinegar treatment one week soak....2nd drain and poured in about a pound of fish aquariumgravel with vinegar about a quart and put the cap on and shake rattle and rolled it to sand the inside.....3rd Then drained flushed with tap water to get all gravel out then flushed with distilled water. drained and put in two bottles (pints) of alcohol 90% drain ....4th then a can of seafoam shook it up and left it in until I was ready to install in bike.



Inside looked like new...
 

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You can also just take it to a radiator shop.


/\ /\ this is what Randakk suggests on his web site for professional restorations, they do a "red coat" application



my 77 tank was rusty and I thought I took fairly good care of it, 2 cycle oil, dry gas, full in winter etc, I bet my tank isn't far from normal steel GL's....who normally removes the tank from bike and inspects ?plus gas has aamount of moisture in it from the stationand add in 10% ethanol.



I would stay away from Kreem coat and definitly the preparation before coating (like painting) is key.
 

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All righty then, decisions, decisions. I do like the radiator shop option best. Not to sure about the cost though. I will have to call and get a price for it. Thanks for everybody's input. I do appreciate it.

Mark
 

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Price? Have you checked withthe dealer ?
The radiator shop is cheap!
If they were availible for the GL1000 they want $1500.00:thumbsdown:
 

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Be aware that vinegar is an acid and the radiator shop will be dipping your tank in an even stronger acid. You may end up with a sieve if the rust is bad.
 

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Por 15 and Kream use a one part sealer that is thinned with Mec (methylethylketone spelling may be off). I have seen this stuff fail.

I am in the process of redoing an 850 Suzuki tank and am using this stuff. It is a 2 part epoxy.

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm

They say that you do not have to be as fussy getting the rust out.

As an abrasive, 1" drywall screws work well as they have sharp edges on the heads and do a great job of scraping.
 

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Recently did a tank myself,I couldn't find a local radiator shop to touch. I first shook out as much debris as I could,put a few handfull's of small nuts and bolts in the tank wrapped it up good(make sure all the holes are sealed) and put it in my dryer, stuffed a couple blankets around it to keep it from bouncing around,and ran it on a no heat cycle for bout an hour.took it out dumped out the bolts and a big pile of rust, then used about 4 cups of MEK ( found at lowes near your paint strippers etc) rinsed the tank with this then used about 1 cup of break free a great lubricant/protector to line it until i was ready to re-install.
I have seen folks use aquarium gravel but I had plenty of extra hardware from leftover projects so it saved me buying the gravel.
My tank was pretty rough and it did a great job.
 

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eyeore302000, you did that with a Goldwing tank? You must have one huge dryer.
 

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HMMM I was thinking about just duck taping it to the rear wheel of my truck for a couple of days:ROFL:
 
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