i read somewhere ( can't remember where) 80/81 - 2 & 1/2 turns, 82/83 - 3 turns on a rebuild
GL1100 Air Screw Setting. What worked for you?
83 GL1100A. Rebuilt carbs. Balanced carbs. Runs great. Just smells rich, Really rich. Burns your eyes rich. Idles for an hour with no problem.
Yes the plugs are black. WAYYYYYYYYYYYYY too sooty looking for me. I'm looking for tan coloring.
I set the air screws at 2.5 turns out at rebuild and am going to pull the carbs again for other reasons.
Thinking of setting them at about 1.75 turns when I pull the carbs.
I'm looking for instructions to set the air screws or advice on what settings worked for you.
No, I do not have a tach that will detect a 50 RPM change. (LOL).
Thanks in advance!
Yes the plugs are black. WAYYYYYYYYYYYYY too sooty looking for me. I'm looking for tan coloring.
I set the air screws at 2.5 turns out at rebuild and am going to pull the carbs again for other reasons.
Thinking of setting them at about 1.75 turns when I pull the carbs.
I'm looking for instructions to set the air screws or advice on what settings worked for you.
No, I do not have a tach that will detect a 50 RPM change. (LOL).
Thanks in advance!
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There is something wrong besides the mixture screw setting, they just will not make that much difference. 3 turns should be the minimum opening. Check the float levels again and the air holes in the side of the idle jets.
yeah when I rebuilt mine I found it difficult to find new float valve seats that seal correctly, that can cause ur rich fuel mixture, those carbs are tough to get right and synchronize.
I agree with Dave that the screws don't make that much of a difference, and your floats are where to look. The screws deal with the idle, and the floats do the entire range.
Also, I don't bother with the airscrews after the factory rebuild settings. It has been my experience that you don't need to move them much anyway.
Bill
Also, I don't bother with the airscrews after the factory rebuild settings. It has been my experience that you don't need to move them much anyway.
Bill
good luck. rebuilt my 83 carbs 5 or6 times and still not right.runs great at idle after that ##...///. driving me crazy
How's your ignition system Butch?good luck. rebuilt my 83 carbs 5 or6 times and still not right.runs great at idle after that ##...///. driving me crazy
2 turns is the magic number!
Thanks to all who responded.
Thanks to all who responded.
Three turns is the magic number. That's 540 degrees. You have other problems if its as rich as you describe.
Isn't 1 turn 360 degrees?Three turns is the magic number. That's 540 degrees. You have other problems if its as rich as you describe.
I've seen this debated many times. If you take a screw driver and insert it in the screw and turn it as far as you can it'll be close to 180 degrees. To get to 360 degrees you have to remove the screw driver, unwind your wrist and turn again.Isn't 1 turn 360 degrees?
So my rule is a Turn = 180 degrees.
I've done carb work on many different things over the years and the 180 rule when applied seems to get me close to where I need to start.
ing. system good. took carbs off of my 1000 puy on runs great considering i have no vacume advance
While that rule seems to be reasonable (maybe change "turn" to "twist" ?) the more common advice being given here is a turn is 360 degrees rotation I believe...I've seen this debated many times. If you take a screw driver and insert it in the screw and turn it as far as you can it'll be close to 180 degrees. To get to 360 degrees you have to remove the screw driver, unwind your wrist and turn again.
So my rule is a Turn = 180 degrees.
I've done carb work on many different things over the years and the 180 rule when applied seems to get me close to where I need to start.
:readit:
Mystery popping
Put a DYNA S on my 77 GL 1000 after problems with 2 Martek units. Starts and runs, but pops and won't idle. Removed the carbs, found the slow speed jets on one carb blocked with white powdery oxide, so I removed all primary and secondary slow speed jets, cleaned them, blew the jetways clear with high pressure (face full of gasoline). Cleared the orifices in the pressure domes, checked that all slides were smooth. replaced main aftermarket steel needles
with original type brass ones in good nick. Mounted the whole friggin thing again and started it up. Ran beautifully on choke, then started to stumble on number 4 cylinder. Sprayed DW 40 around domes and found a small leak on numbers 1 and 4. Change the dome on number 4 tightened number 1, and restarted the engine.
Again runs fine with choke, slowed to around 1000 RPM and held idle for about 5 minutes. When the engine was up to temp, I took her around the block. It acted like it was starving: hesitation on throttle which evolved into a lag so bad I had to pump the choke to get the bike back home. Once back on choke the engine raced at 4500 smoothly. The second I reduced choke it starts to pop and fart.
I poured in a bottle of Sea Foam (whole bottle to about 2 gallons of gas, so it should be strong.). Started the bike and let it run at 3K-5k for a full minutes. Started to get the wispy white smoke out of the pipes telling me the Sea foam is burning. Engine note smoothed out after another minute on choke. Reduced choke and the b**** started popping again, removed choke and it won't idle. Carbs are synched, all pilot jets are out 2 full turns (720 Degrees).
idle stop screw doesn't have any immediate effect on performance, seems to pick up late and when the engine idles down, it does so at its leisure.
Could it be the DYNA S breaking up at temperature as some have said they do? It starts right up again after it stalls, it just won't idle. Carbs are the right series for the engine. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
Cheers,:sadguy:
Put a DYNA S on my 77 GL 1000 after problems with 2 Martek units. Starts and runs, but pops and won't idle. Removed the carbs, found the slow speed jets on one carb blocked with white powdery oxide, so I removed all primary and secondary slow speed jets, cleaned them, blew the jetways clear with high pressure (face full of gasoline). Cleared the orifices in the pressure domes, checked that all slides were smooth. replaced main aftermarket steel needles
with original type brass ones in good nick. Mounted the whole friggin thing again and started it up. Ran beautifully on choke, then started to stumble on number 4 cylinder. Sprayed DW 40 around domes and found a small leak on numbers 1 and 4. Change the dome on number 4 tightened number 1, and restarted the engine.
Again runs fine with choke, slowed to around 1000 RPM and held idle for about 5 minutes. When the engine was up to temp, I took her around the block. It acted like it was starving: hesitation on throttle which evolved into a lag so bad I had to pump the choke to get the bike back home. Once back on choke the engine raced at 4500 smoothly. The second I reduced choke it starts to pop and fart.
I poured in a bottle of Sea Foam (whole bottle to about 2 gallons of gas, so it should be strong.). Started the bike and let it run at 3K-5k for a full minutes. Started to get the wispy white smoke out of the pipes telling me the Sea foam is burning. Engine note smoothed out after another minute on choke. Reduced choke and the b**** started popping again, removed choke and it won't idle. Carbs are synched, all pilot jets are out 2 full turns (720 Degrees).
idle stop screw doesn't have any immediate effect on performance, seems to pick up late and when the engine idles down, it does so at its leisure.
Could it be the DYNA S breaking up at temperature as some have said they do? It starts right up again after it stalls, it just won't idle. Carbs are the right series for the engine. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
Cheers,:sadguy:
@Phavas
If you start a new thread with your problem it will likely get more attention and you won't have to sift through replies to the original poster's problem.:?
If you start a new thread with your problem it will likely get more attention and you won't have to sift through replies to the original poster's problem.:?
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