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GL1100 Carb rebuild?

7990 Views 40 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  randakk
Why are the CV carbs on the 1100s priced so crazy to rebuild? I see Randakks kits at $250 and thinking that is insane. I see the lesser kits on ebay and still $170.
I just want the air cut off diaphragms and the o-rings. I do not want all the jets and needles.
Is there away to buy just the o-rings needed? I found the diaphragms.. a set of 4 for $60. Help a po-boy out.
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Why are the CV carbs on the 1100s priced so crazy to rebuild? I see Randakks kits at $250 and thinking that is insane. I see the lesser kits on ebay and still $170.
I just want the air cut off diaphragms and the o-rings. I do not want all the jets and needles.
Is there away to buy just the o-rings needed? I found the diaphragms.. a set of 4 for $60. Help a po-boy out.

You could buy the o-rings you need from Honda. Don't waste your money on ebay kits, they won't fit.
You could buy the o-rings you need from Honda. Don't waste your money on ebay kits, they won't fit.
Yeah........Does anyone have a list of the o-rings with part numbers? I can get them but surely someone has this info already.
You will have to order the kits to get them.
http://www.westernhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp
Yeah........Does anyone have a list of the o-rings with part numbers? I can get them but surely someone has this info already.
What are you looking for?
The Honda kits (parts not sold separately) just for the gaskets/o-rings inside the carburetors are $30 to $40 per carburetor.
What are you looking for?
The Honda kits (parts not sold separately) just for the gaskets/o-rings inside the carburetors are $30 to $40 per carburetor.
This is what I mean....what a scam for o-rings?
I now know why so many 1000/1100s run the webers.
this is getting to be a huge problem the bikes aren't worth what it cost to keep them running
this is getting to be a huge problem the bikes aren't worth what it cost to keep them running
It is just crazy for some rubbers that can be ruined quickly with the ethanol the government puts in most fuel.
Please don't get me started on the price of a new oem water pump....:praying: dear Lord I love this bike but c-mon.
Example:

I use O-rings from ACE Hardware for the factory intake elbows.
I've never had one fail.
Less than $2.00 for all four.

Get the EXACT size of your best o-ring using a micrometer and start looking.

I'd bet you could find what you need inexpensively.
Thanks Steve.......That is what what I am going to do I guess. I was just hoping with all the GL owners here someone had some sources already.
I bought just the air cutoffs and pump diaphram from here:
http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/honda/gl1100/?filters[category]=carb&filters[fitting]=custom

a few years ago - just the parts I needed. I've ridden on that carb set for about 80,000 miles now, so it must be OK... :)
What are you looking for?
Until you pull the carburetors apart you'll not know if you need any parts.
For what it's worth I just pulled apart and cleaned the carburetor on my 1983 Yamaha TY250 that had been sitting for ten years. Total investment was 1/4 can of carburetor cleaner and an hour of work. It runs perfectly.
I'm with Ken on parts. Rarely will I buy stuff before I do a inspection. How would I know what I need until I look at it. True, some things can be counted on to get replaced, like O-rings. I keep various kits of those things.

Certain O-rings work better than others for certain things.

Black - they WILL swell. Sometimes this is a good thing. I use the black O-rings for the intake elbows. The size that I use is a tight fit to the groove in the elbow. Tight enough to hold itself in position within the groove until I install them. Once installed and hit with fuel, they swell to make a perfect fit. I've never had one fail.

Green - these are generally sold for air conditioning repairs at most better auto parts stores. They can be used in fuel environments and do not swell like the black O-rings. Actually, I use the green O-rings as a replacement to the rubber plunger supplied with the syringes I use in my Stealth Tester fuel testing kits.

Brown - Better (generally considered) than the black or green for fuel use. Most have various amounts of Viton in the mix. More expensive and harder to find locally. In Industry, brown O-rings are generally considered the best O-ring available by those that work on vehicles. That really depends on a lot of factors though.

Lighter Colors (White, Yellow, Orange, Red, Blue) these O-rings are generally silicone-based and have limited use for us in a fuel environment. Many of the lighter colors may also have Teflon in their mix and are great for Brake master cylinders.

There are many technical aspects to O-rings but some use this jargon to their benefit. "Technically" we're working with fuel within either a vacuum or a overpressure and it's not that complicated.

____________

A color guide is a loose reference to usage for O-rings. Manufacturers have not gotten together and set color reference standards because of the various "secret ingredients" that apparently make one O-ring different from its identical counterpart. We see this in the marketing of 0-rings.

Common sense plays a larger role than the technical spaghetti-reasoning for the almighty dollar.
Some will say, "You get what you pay for, and a $0.35 o-ring will fail!"
I say, "Ok..." and move-on with my cheap O-rings. haha
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Got a present for you....

Check your PM's -- :cheers:
Yes, its pretty sad how much a few rubber pieces add up. I brought my 82 back to life last year and on the carbs I only replaced bowl gaskets, accel. pump, and 1 or 2 air cutoffs...but even that seperately adds up quick.....thats why Randakks kit really is a good deal.
Compare it to trying to piece a kit together yourself or buy a generic cheaper set with new brass that usually arent even the right size, and Randakks viton kit is a deal!!
haha - the guy needs some O-rings and you're pushing a $250.00 Randakk kit?

...who are you really? hahaha
It's a joke ...

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Got your PM Carl and you are a great dude for this offer.:praying:

Yes I have the carbs totally apart. I had initially just thought to clean the pilot idle circuits and try them, but after inspecting one of the air cutoff diaphragms deteriorating I did a full tear down. Some of the o-rings are okay and all of the brss is fine.... but just thought I would replace as many o-rings as possible since it is completely apart.
Thanks guys

Carl again you are awesome and will not be forgotten.
For a variety of reasons, I don't sell individual orings.

I tried that as an experiment a while back. The results were quite poor from my point of view.

Not only did it add labor to our business model, but it also defeated significant quality assurance steps built into our products and introduced new potential errors. It also encouraged "shortcuts" by customers who re-used spent used parts and incorporated inferior new parts from other suppliers.

That led to an increased customer service workload for our staff.

Our philosophy: there is too much labor involved in a proper carb to encourage anything other than "best practices."

But, individual orings (in the most common sizes needed for vintage Hondas) can be purchased from this source:

Cycle-Re-Cycle Part II:
http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm

http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/fuel_system_parts/indv_gl_carb_parts.html

http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/fuel_system_parts/special_fuel_o-rings.html

Owner Rob Eberle is a good guy and runs a good business.
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