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I adjusted my valves yesterday morning and that went pretty good. Went for a short ride and came home with the intention of syncing the carbs. Well that did not go so good. she runs a little worse now than she did. I am using a singe gauge, so I know that is making it a little more difficult. So next I will try the bench sync, (with them on the bike). But the way I under stand it, is the sync is to make sure that all four carbs open together and this is more critical at idle. The book says to adjust 1 to 3 and 2 to 4, i think, but 4 opens with 3 and 2 opens with 1, right? I know 3 is th ebase and cannot be changed. I'll keep trying with the manual syncing first and then maybe the vacuum sync.
 

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Bench synchronizing takes experience Kevin. Almost anyone can use the gauges and that is the best method for people inexperienced with balancing carburettors. Bench synchronizing may seem easier, but it isn't.
 

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oharaLTD wrote:
I adjusted my valves yesterday morning and that went pretty good. Went for a short ride and came home with the intention of syncing the carbs. Well that did not go so good. she runs a little worse now than she did. I am using a singe gauge, so I know that is making it a little more difficult. So next I will try the bench sync, (with them on the bike). But the way I under stand it, is the sync is to make sure that all four carbs open together and this is more critical at idle. The book says to adjust 1 to 3 and 2 to 4, i think, but 4 opens with 3 and 2 opens with 1, right? I know 3 is th ebase and cannot be changed. I'll keep trying with the manual syncing first and then maybe the vacuum sync.
On you bike I'm not sure which one you balance too but its the one that can not be adjusted. All the other carbs are balanced to that one. I four gauge set can be made pretty reasonably. Someone will chime in here and give the low down.
 

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Kevin you really need at least two guages and four would be better to properly sync the carbs. The adjustments are pretty sensitive and will be easy to change when tightening up the adjusters also.

You are correct that you adjust 1 to 3, then 2 to 4. That gets both sides equal, then you adjust side to side. There is an article in the Goldwing Workshop section on how to adjust them on a 1200. The 1100 will be almost identical. Here is the link.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1200balancecarbs.htm
 

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Visit Randakk's site. Great tutorial on carb sync.

Please make note that he does not make any reference to order of carb sync, or the mythical base carb that can't be adjusted.
 

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glhonda wrote:
Visit Randakk's site. Great tutorial on carb sync.

Please make note that he does not make any reference to order of carb sync, or the mythical base carb that can't be adjusted.
While this may be true there is ONE carb thats non adjustable. It is just common sense to try to make the others the same as the one you can't adjust. Two pennies.
 

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vtxcandyred wrote:
While this may be true there is ONE carb thats non adjustable. It is just common sense to try to make the others the same as the one you can't adjust. Two pennies.
Who said any thing about adjusting the carburetors?:?
When I'm synchronizing carburetors I adjust the the linkage between them.
Just my ½ pence worth.
 

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Well I know this is gonna sound lame, but I went back out and spent some more time working with the single gauge. I linked it to two carbs at once and used valves to go from one to the other and then switched side, I now have all four and excuse my terminology, within one mark of the other. Number four was way out, so I split the difference between two and four and would you believe that one and three fell right into place when I went back and checked them. Cold starting will be a big test.
 

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Numbers, ...numbers.

Adjust the fronts to the rears, then the lefts to the rights.

You have three screws. One screw on the right, two on the left.

Right screw and front left screw balance the carbs to each other per side.

Left rear screw balances left side to the right.

To bench-sync on the bike is a lot of needless work, as you'll be pulling the elbows off of all carbs just to set the butterflies ballpark. Not worth the trouble. A fine art to a bench-sync to get it close, if not "on". You're probably close enough now for a set of gauges. If it's running and idling to any degree, you're in the ballpark. Syncing is for the idle qualities. The wee fractions that the throttle valves are misaligned upon partial/full throttle openings are all but unnoticeable on a street bike. Different fuel circuits come into play.

Just the amount of time alone it takes using a single gauge will throw things off as the engine heats up.

A set of tubing gauges or more vac gauges are probably all that is needed. You're probably doing everything right except that you're trying to do it with only one gauge. That's an art too, believe it or not, using a single gauge and hustling it done fast enough by swapping it around...
 

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I did adjust front to rear and left to right. Number four was way out of wack and when I got 2 and four close and rechecked one and three, they were all close. The front and back on each side is within 1 in Hg of each other and from left to right the difference is approximately 2 in Hg. Is there a certain amount of vacuum as far as min vs max
 

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Here is the set up I used
 

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oharaLTD wrote:
I did adjust front to rear and left to right. Number four was way out of wack and when I got 2 and four close and rechecked one and three, they were all close. The front and back on each side is within 1 in Hg of each other and from left to right the difference is approximately 2 in Hg. Is there a certain amount of vacuum as far as min vs max
The Honda destruction manual says 1.4"Hg variation maximum which I think is high so you've still got work to do.
 

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my manual says "check that the difference in vacuum gauge readings is 50mm (2 in) Hg or less
 

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Ok, I'm new to the Goldwing, and mine has FI, but the throttle bodies are basically the same. All you can do is sync the right side to the left, just like parallel twin. Both left carbs and both right carbs use the same throttle shaft, so they cannot be adjusted independently of each other. If they are off, there is either a mechanical problem, or you have a vacuum leak or compression way off in one cylinder. I have the Motion Pro mercury synchronizing tool, and I just checked the right rear and left rear on mine. They were so close I didn't adjust anything. Bike was running fine at the time. Somebody let me know if I missed something.


I now have the entire FI unit off the bike working on it, but the throttle bodies and air chamber are still assembled. All 4 butterflys open and close together, and all 4 close tight enough to hold carb cleaner.
 

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JerryH, There is an adjustment in the linkage between the left two carbs and also between the right two carbs.

oharaLTD, I would say you are close enough. The acid test is to ride it. If it pulls nicely at low RPM and there is little to no chain rattle you got it.

I can get 17 MPH with my 1200 at idle in 5th gear. I often open the throttle at RPMs below 2000 and only get a slight bit of grumbling from the engine. The noise or vibration (same thing) is less in the lower gears.

Lyle
 

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Keep it simple.
 

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