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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It was supposed to be "Carburation day" at my house today due to me now being in possesion of my brand new 4 gauge syncronizing kit and things have definately changed since my last attempt.

After installing the kit on the motor, now, #3 is Idling at 20"Hg and is 24" @ 4,000 rpm.

The range of 1, 2 & 4 is not sufficient to get anywhere near close to #3, though they are all very close in adjustability.

I have swapped guages around to check accuracy and meticulously calibrated.

I realize this is not about certain actual values, it's all about just getting them the same. But!

What values do you guys get, particularly from #3 ???
 

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What year bike are you doing? On my 84 &85 you use #4 as your base to take a reading as it has no adjustment on it. Hal
 

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Junior Grue
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It would help if you posted the vacuum on the other carburetors, IE lower or higher.
 

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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's an '82 1100, #3 is the reference carb (non adjustable)

The best I can get on the others (1,2&4) is 10" Hg @ 1500 rpm, which would be perfect as at my last attempt, that's exactly what #3 was. Then!!
 

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Junior Grue
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It's an '82 1100, #3 is the reference carb (non adjustable)
For what it's worth you're not adjusting the carburetors but the linkage between them.
Balance #1 and #3 then #2 and #4.
Next balance left and right.
 

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With the numbers you posted you have #3 too high. What idle speed are you setting it at? Should be about 1000 to 1100 RPM for a GL1100.

Your carbs are seriously out of sync, as you well know. What you have to do is reduce the #3 until the vacuum starts dropping. Then you'll be able to adjust the others up to match it... should be about 10 HG for all 4.

Syncing is a balancing act. Right now you have #3 doing all of the work. So make your adjustments a little at a time. Like 1/2 turn on the idle speed screws.

I suspect you don't really have the idle circuits cleaned well enough and you are actually into the high speed jet range.
 

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Junior Grue
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Right now you have #3 doing all of the work. So make your adjustments a little at a time. Like 1/2 turn on the idle speed screws.
Actually #3 is doing nothing and the other cylinders are compensating. But yes as Mike (glhonda) once said "Someone messed with the screws".
You've a lot of work ahead of you to get the linkage back in balance.:sadguy:
 

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It's an '82 1100, #3 is the reference carb (non adjustable)

The best I can get on the others (1,2&4) is 10" Hg @ 1500 rpm, which would be perfect as at my last attempt, that's exactly what #3 was. Then!!
#3 has the same amount of adjustment as the other 3 carbs.And needs to be adjusted during the syncing along with the other carbs.
Wilf
 

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The only way 1 cyl. has that high vacuum is if the throttle is completely closed or something else blocking air flow. I believe you have the main idle screw backed all the way off the stop and the rest are adjusted too far open. Adjust the main screw until #3 comes down, the idle speed will likely go way high, then adjust the rest down to match. Also the slide may be stuck causing the high reading @ 4000rpm.
 

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You could remove the intake manifolds and do a visual check on where the butterflies are at. Sometimes you can get the synch amazingly close that way and an obvious issue may show up. Also a good time to make sure the slides are free.
 

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Did you replace the spark plugs, air, and fuel filter before tryong to syncronize the carbs?
 

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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The only way 1 cyl. has that high vacuum is if the throttle is completely closed or something else blocking air flow. I believe you have the main idle screw backed all the way off the stop and the rest are adjusted too far open. Adjust the main screw until #3 comes down, the idle speed will likely go way high, then adjust the rest down to match. Also the slide may be stuck causing the high reading @ 4000rpm.

As usual "Dave the man" Knocks the nail right on the head, where would we be without you fella, if I ever find my way up to Arkansas again, I will hunt you down to buy you a beer. :claps:

It turns out that when I did it with my mityvac, one at a time, one particular adjustment forced up the idle to 4,000 or so, so far that I backed off on the idle screw to compensate, obviously far too far.

Right now I've got it close but not accurate with all the lock nuts loose, so for now, I'm taking advantage of the hour of daylight I have after work and that sync kit is staying on, the job ain't done until all cylinders are equal and all 3 of those really hard to get to 6mm lock nuts are tight.

But I now have huge confidence that the job will ultimately be successful due to the laws of Physics that say, you cannot fake a vacuum on accurate guages, you can only destroy it!! Thanks Dave. :claps:
 

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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This is THE definitive 1100 carb' sync' video

Steve or Moderator, these, ought to be on a sticky note, or at the very least, added to the how-to guide!

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Thanks danfilipi I for one learned a whole lot there, (especially that #4 only synced left and right bank, that was brand new).
So could a lot of others that are new to it.
The main thing I learned was that my initial foray into it, with my one carb' at a time "mityvac" may have had a good effect, but really just showed how bad things where!!

Much more confidence this weekend. Thanks Man!!!
 

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Looks like you got it, not that hard once you understand the concept.
 

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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Shameless bump !!!

To get these Vids put on the HOW-TO sticky!!!

Steve or Moderator, these, ought to be on a sticky note, or at the very least, added to the how-to guide!

Part 1



Part 2



Part 3



Thanks danfilipi I for one learned a whole lot there, (especially that #4 only synced left and right bank, that was brand new).
 

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You asked earlier and no one responded about what HG do we get. On my 84 @ 900 rpm I get about 9" HG. I still think you will get much better results reducing overall idle to about 1000 RPM with the #3 adjuster. That will probably bring them all into sync about 10 inches... I have found with all 3 of my 84's that from 7 to 10 inches is the norm.

Actually I've done numerous bikes from KZ1000 to ZX7 even old GS650 and they always were in sync at normal idle from 7 to 10 inches. With 8 to 9 being the usual setting.
 
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