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Greetings, There is a small stainless plug in the bowl part of the carb. It is held in place by the bowl. (I assume that it covers some kind of small passage.)
How do you get that out before soaking the body in the cleaner?? Thanks, Lew
 

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go here to read it all...http://www.randakks.com/TechTips.htm#15

this is one paragraph from R's page.

Circular aluminum "puck." This is about the size of a large aspirin tablet and is located beneath the bowl gasket in the main carb body. It's necessary to cover the access point used in the manufacturing process to create by-pass transfer ports for the idle circuit. It's mandatory that you remove these to clean the hidden passages. Usually, compressed air applied thought the idle mixture adjustment screw hole will pop them out (and cause them to fly across the room!). Sometimes, they are really stuck and solvents are necessary (apply through the idle mixture adjustment screw hole). Occasionally, heat is necessary to free them. Sometimes they won't budge and it's necessary to remove them with brute force. In these cases, I "install" a sheet metal screw into the puck to provide the purchase necessary to remove. Unfortunately, the pucks aren't available from Honda, so if you need replacements, you will need access to a stash of salvage parts or buy Randakk's exclusive puck reproductions
 

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Lew wrote:
Greetings, There is a small stainless plug in the bowl part of the carb. It is held in place by the bowl. (I assume that it covers some kind of small passage.)
How do you get that out before soaking the body in the cleaner?? Thanks, Lew
You don`t remove the plug on the 1100 carbs , only on the 1000 carbs. Buy this book & kit from Randakk http://www.randakks.com/GL1100%20Combo%20Offer.htmyou won`t be sorry
 

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Thanks for the response. It is a given that I do not have to remove the puck need not be removed on the gL1100 carburetors??? thanks, Lew
 

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You can take a small plastic straw and poke it thru from the top after the vacuum piston is removed. Make sure you install it back in the proper direction during assembly after the cleaning.



Dfhamp
 

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I drillthem on1100s, do not drill any more than you need to to get a sheet metal screw in there. Less than 1/4 inch will do fine.The hole you drill shouldbe a small a diameter as possible.You only have to do it on the first repair. There are three very small holes from this circuit to the carb throat that need to be clean, and the other channels are much easier to clean if you pull them out. You can resue the puckswith no problems. If you don't drill them andleave some of the circuits restricted, it can cause that carb to run lean at idle and it will make it more difficult to adjust idle bleed screws, or pilot jets some call them, even then the air fuel mix will not be correct at idle, if you get it close.



Hope this helps!
 

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Not trying to hijack this thread, BUT, on the 1979 GL1000 are the pucks supposed to be snug or loose?
 
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