Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I threw a new Walmart battery in the wing and I was hoping that would cure my tough to start issue. The first start of the day takes me like 15 minutes of messing with the choke and rubbing the tank for good luck. It fires up after a few tries on a fresh charged battery but sometimes it doesn't and just kills the battery after a few minutes of trial and error. I'm pretty positive I need a carb sync since my idle is pretty choppy so could that be the culprit? I've been through the carbs all is well and all the idle mix screws are at factory spec. Also the petcock is on when starting haha. Plugs are new and gapped to spec. Coils are fine. Do I need a much more powerful battery? Had ordered a pc680 but due to sturgis it never shipped and I grew impatient and cancelled the order.


Thanks in advance. You guys are saving my arse pretty regularly. And the bike DOES start, eventually. And once it's warm it starts up instantly.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,886 Posts
Most of the time hard starting is due to weak ignition. Carb synch would have little if any effect on it. Check the resistance through the entire secondary from the #1 plug cap to #2 and from #3 to #4. If you get any reading below 30K ohms it is probably OK, if not check the plug caps, wires and coils individually.
Or do this http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...l-alternative-gl1100s-probably-1200s-too.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Most of the time hard starting is due to weak ignition. Carb synch would have little if any effect on it. Check the resistance through the entire secondary from the #1 plug cap to #2 and from #3 to #4. If you get any reading below 30K ohms it is probably OK, if not check the plug caps, wires and coils individually.
Or do this http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...l-alternative-gl1100s-probably-1200s-too.html
Had my new battery on the charger for a few hours, bike fired right up after 2 tries. However, when I shut the bike off hot and try to start it again while the fan is on, it BARELY has enough balls to crank. Not sure if that's a lame battery or a bad stator.

Also that coil alternative looks awesome. From what I read in that thread for my specific bike it is really simple. How much do you think that conversion costs roughly? I wouldn't mind doing it just as preventative maintenance. Especially if it makes starting reliable and instant.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,886 Posts
Had my new battery on the charger for a few hours, bike fired right up after 2 tries. However, when I shut the bike off hot and try to start it again while the fan is on, it BARELY has enough balls to crank. Not sure if that's a lame battery or a bad stator.

Also that coil alternative looks awesome. From what I read in that thread for my specific bike it is really simple. How much do you think that conversion costs roughly? I wouldn't mind doing it just as preventative maintenance. Especially if it makes starting reliable and instant.

You will have to do some testing to determine what the hot crank problem is. First check that it is charging, with a volt meter on the battery see if the voltage goes up from what it shows with the key off with the engine at 3000 RPM. Then check if the voltage drops below 10.5 when cranking with a fully charged battery. If so have the battery tested.
 

·
Cyclebusters.com
Joined
·
908 Posts
take the starter off and clean it. simple. common. predictable
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
take the starter off and clean it. simple. common. predictable
Went to do this today and gave up after I realized I either needed to remove the headers, or go buy a wobble socket for the back bolt. Will do this once I get around to grabbing some wobbles.


This is off-topic: The bike is an 83 with almost 13k actual miles. I do understand the general consensus with timing belts is to change them if you're not sure when it was last done, if at all. My question is: Mileage wise, the belts should be fine right? The only factor that could be pointing towards inspecting/replacing them is the age of the belts, correct? It runs like it should, no belt noise, pinging, knocking, awful MPG, etc. I ask all this because I am not sure if I feel comfortable replacing them, especially if I don't need to. The DIY threads make it look simple, but I don't want to be the one to punch a hole in a piston either. On the contrary, I can't afford to pay someone either at the moment. The bike's miles were put on it between 83-93 and then it sat for years so I could see that being a problem for the belts.

EDIT: I ordered Gates belts just now. $42 is affordable and gives peace of mind. I will just have to take my sweet ass time changing them to make sure I do it properly, or boom goes the wing.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,886 Posts
The main thing to remember when replacing the belts is to put it on #1 TDC and DO NOT move anything, check that the marks line up on the cam pulleys and change the belts, DO NOT turn the crank or cams while the belts are off except the right cam will move clockwise some but just move it back and hold it in place with a wrench.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The main thing to remember when replacing the belts is to put it on #1 TDC and DO NOT move anything, check that the marks line up on the cam pulleys and change the belts, DO NOT turn the crank or cams while the belts are off except the right cam will move clockwise some but just move it back and hold it in place with a wrench.
Yeah I figured as much. Is it safe to measure the belt tension by measuring the deflection (5-7mm) or should I go by feel? I read the belt gets tighter when warm due to motor expansion so do I need to compensate for that?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,886 Posts
Just let the tensioner springs do their job. after installing the belts the left side should be good tensioned as it sits but on the right side turn the engine clockwise about 3 notches of the pulleys then loosen and retighten the tensioner. Turn the engine 2 full turns and check the marks. Then they should have the 5 to 7mm of slack on the side opposite the tensioner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I rebuilt the starter, it sounds better that's for sure. I also got the PC680 battery. Still not starting without major headaches. It fires up for like a second then dies every time. Sounds like spark to me. Plugs are new so that leads me to the coils. Do I clean their connections or just replace them?

Also its weird how one day it'll start after a couple tries and the next it won't start at all.

Edit: got it started via cranking it in the off position for several seconds and letting it stand for 20 minutes. May be a minor flooding issue. Also discovered my exhaust gaskets are basically non existent. Headers were like chimneys in the winter. Going to see if napa has those.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got my carb sync in the mail. Glad I did, check out cylinder one being a homebody while the others are at the party. Explains why cylinder one plug was way off from the others I'm color. Only time will tell if this affected my starting issues.


Got them in the same ballpark but need to redo it, as I messed with the idle screw and threw it out of whack.

Also here is a video showing exactly what happens when I try to start the engine while its cold.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,886 Posts
Sounds good cranking, is the choke working?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes. Choke works. It likes to start with minimal choke and then add some choke for a minute or so until its a little warm.

I have a uni foam filter and my air box is missing the lid. Is that too much air?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,886 Posts
I don't know if the unifoam filter flows better or worse than a paper filter but it might be too restrictive and be a choke in itself. The lid being there or not is not going to matter much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
It flows better than paper. I just let it sit for 3-4 hours after the carb sync and it started up after about 4 attempts. Am I wrong for thinking a bike should just fire up with little effort or do these bikes generally require fiddling to get them to start consistently. It starts and is at a super low RPM and doesn't recover without giving it 1/4 turn of throttle for several seconds then it climbs up to 1000.


Edit: went for a lengthy ride and 3 new problems. 1. Speedo stopped working. 2. Tach is screaming. 3. Steering has a shimmy.

Fun
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,886 Posts
Have you adjusted the valves?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Have you adjusted the valves?
No. I have feeler gauges, is that all I need to inspect them? What is the factory spec for them? Today's cold start was pretty good. Didn't have to fight it much.

Belts come tomorrow so ill rip it all apart. I also am tossing the stock instrument cluster and going digital. I don't want to repair old gauges when I can put my trailtech vapor on it.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,886 Posts
Exhaust is .005" (.13mm)
intake is .004" (.10mm)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Exhaust is .005" (.13mm)
intake is .004" (.10mm)
Thanks. I changed the belts and adjusted the valves today. Waiting on new gaskets and rad hoses. Belts feel a smidge too tight but ill wait until it runs to determine if they need adjusting. I let the tensioners do their thing without my influence. The old belts were in bad shape. The valves were also out of whack. Left side cam was half a tooth off as well. All is to factory spec so I am eager to hear the difference. Cleaned the connections on the coils, they were a little dirty.

Any idea where I would tap into for a digital tach? Not sure which wire on the coils would work.


Also, I found this nasty oily stuff in the tach cable hole on the motor. Environment gunk or do these leak? I'm not reusing the mechanical tach.


Old belt


My mess haha
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top