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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1980 GL1100 STD

I have no spark on cyl 3 and 4.
Swapped coils around and still NO spark on 3 & 4.

I also have an extra coil, that works, just not on 3 & 4.
So I think I rules out the coils, they are GOOD.

When I power test the input terminals where the wires hook up on each coil, I have power at all four points where the wire hook up.
Not the plug output wires, in the input wires.

On 1&2, its a yellow wire on one side, black/white on the other.
On 3&4, its a blue wire on one side, black/white on the other.

I've also tested the spark plug wires by swapping 3/4 over to the 1/2 coil, they are fine also.
Plugs are good as well.

What else could it be?

From searching around, maybe a pluse generator? Where is that located??

Any help would be great, thanks!!
 

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cyl3 is run off right hand coil, cyl4 is run off left hand coil. could it be bad spark unit? swap out connectors and see if problem shifts forward.
 

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The beauty of electronic ignition is there's not too much that can go wrong. But when it does… it's usually a real head scratcher.

Since you are absolutely sure the coils are good… and your substitution test is sound….
that leaves the pulse generators and the spark units.

The connection for the pg is on the left side of the battery. It has 4 leads…. blue, white/blue, white and blue/yellow.

To test them disconnect the plug. Connect your ohm meter to the engine side of the plug: white/blue and blue leads (for 3-4 cylinders)… resistance should be 530 ohms +/- 50 ohms @ 68 degrees F.

Repeat for the white and blue/yellow leads (1-2 cylinders) for grins.

The pg is located on the back side of the engine and it's a bear to replace. I've also heard about the bolt in the middle of the pg coming loose and causing a similar problem but I doubt that's it because it's more likely to cause a no-spark condition to all cylinders.

This information came out of the Honda manual for 80 GL1100.
 

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cyl3 is run off right hand coil, cyl4 is run off left hand coil. could it be bad spark unit? swap out connectors and see if problem shifts forward.

I'm going by memory here so correct me if I'm totally off base. The 2 front cylinders are No1 and No2. No1 is on the right side as you are sitting on the bike. They are 'buddy' cylinders in that they share the same ignition coil.

The rear cylinders are No3 and No4. No3 is on the right side. They are also buddy cylinders and share the same ignition coil.

Again…. I could be wrong. But I don't think I am.
 

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The beauty of electronic ignition is there's not too much that can go wrong. But when it does… it's usually a real head scratcher.

Since you are absolutely sure the coils are good… and your substitution test is sound….
that leaves the pulse generators and the spark units.

The connection for the pg is on the left side of the battery. It has 4 leads…. blue, white/blue, white and blue/yellow.

To test them disconnect the plug. Connect your ohm meter to the engine side of the plug: white/blue and blue leads (for 3-4 cylinders)… resistance should be 530 ohms +/- 50 ohms @ 68 degrees F.

Repeat for the white and blue/yellow leads (1-2 cylinders) for grins.

The pg is located on the back side of the engine and it's a bear to replace. I've also heard about the bolt in the middle of the pg coming loose and causing a similar problem but I doubt that's it because it's more likely to cause a no-spark condition to all cylinders.

This information came out of the Honda manual for 80 GL1100.
This here is good advice, follow this guys instructions, that's what I would do for sure..Usually when there is no spark and your coils are good it's a problem with the PG or perhaps a bad wire to the PG, I had that happen once, the wire was actually pinched in half under the plastic casing, the Ohm meter told me so..I couldn't believe it..
 

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Try switching the spark units, the 2 little aluminum boxes bolted together on the left in front of the regulator. Just unplug them and switch the connectors.
 

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Know if it's not the PG and all the readings are good using your Ohm meter, I think Dave may have got it right, it could very well be a spark unit bad, one way you can check you ignition components is by checking your timing using a timing light at the top of your engine's timing plug while it's running, if both your F-1 and F-2 marks align at 950 rpm's at idle then all components are fine but if not then you know something is bad....
 

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OK stop beating your head against the wall. $20 says the problem is int he plug boots. Either the connection at the wire is corroded or the resistors have given up the ghost. Either way go to yer local parts store ask for NGK part number XD05FP get four of em.

Pull your old ones off, snip about half an inch off the ends of your wires install the new ones and down the road you go.
 

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Replacing the boots is a good idea but I'd swap the ignitors first. I've found a couple bad ones when I was in the rebuilding business.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the help guys!

I Swapped CDI boxes and that diagnosed it.
Ran to salvage yard, got a new one for $30 and I'm back on the road!

It starts quicker and seems to have WAY more power than even before when all 4 cyls were firing. The spark must have been really weak on the old one before it went out.

Thanks again!
 

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Thanks for all the help guys!

I Swapped CDI boxes and that diagnosed it.
Ran to salvage yard, got a new one for $30 and I'm back on the road!

Thanks again!
Just be sure to hang onto the one good one you had. If it was working it will likely work for a long time again, or maybe not. Just because they're old doesn't mean they'll fail. It's pretty random. Even if the tar runs out of the unit that doesn't mean it's about to fail. You can top them off with silicon seal or epoxy if most of the tar is gone.
 
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