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Discussion Starter #1
Just put an 83 engine in my 80 with a set of 83 gauges the engine has appox 100k runs strong no leaks, no water in oil, no oil in water, does not leak out of weep hole. Does still have an original water pump installed. When driving 1st through 4th the temp indicates just above mid gauge shift to 5th Overdrive 70 -80 mph temp gauge climes to just below the over temp mark. Out side air temp for my driving has been 85 or cooler. Do I have an over temp issue I would except the gauge to run cooler shifting to 5th slows the engine and more air through radiator. Is there a difference in temp sending units for the gauge change put a 150 mph speedo and OD tach with cluster. Do I have a gauge problem mismatch with sender how do I check or do I have an overheating issue.
 

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The problem may be the radiator partially plugged. Sure the engine turns slower in 5th and there is more air flow at high speed but there is more load on the engine creating more heat and if the radiator can't dissipate it the temp will climb.
 

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to find out the true temp of the water try getting hold of a domestic radiator temp gauge. Their cheap and fit to a hose with a spring round the hose. Take the bike out and check the water temp at various stages of the journey. I would put it on the lower hose so you have some idea of what the water temp is like when the rad has finished it's job.

If you like use dave 0430's idea and try again with the gauge on the upper hose.

I suspect he is correct as usual but this may well prove to you that it is indeed a problem you need to sort.
 

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One more thing. You did put the air scoops back on the new set up did't you! Assuming your is a standard of course
 

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I'd check the radiator first as mentioned by Dave 430. One quick check is to take off the radiator cap, fire up the engine and watch the water level in the radiator as you run the engine up and down from idle to 3500rpm or so. If the water level changes much from slow to fast engine rpms that's a pretty good indication of a scaled radiator. One other way to check a radiator is to scan it with a handheld IR thermometer with the engine running. The temperature on the front of the radiator from top to bottom at the left side, middle and right side. The temperature should be hottest at the top going smoothly down in temp as you scan downward. If you run the IR thermometer across the radiator at the same height the temperature should be pretty constant. Any sudden changes in temperature indicates a scaled or plugged area in the radiator. If you find this problem a good radiator shop can usually clean the radiator. Most auto parts store cleaning products really don't work well.
 

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I'm wondering if you ever hear your cooling fan running.
That wouldn't matter at any speed above 15mph or so. And the air scoops that goldtop mentioned are important, I tried it without them myself and although mine didn't overheat it did run hotter without them.
 

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The water pump either works or if the shaft is broken it doesn't.

As the over heating only occurs in OD I would as others have said look to the radiator.
 

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The water pump either works or if the shaft is broken it doesn't.

As the over heating only occurs in OD I would as others have said look to the radiator.
Also, replace the thermostat, hoses and radiator cap. Aftermarket are available at auto parts stores. There used to be an Aftermarket parts list in the old main menu under GW tips. Where it is now????
 

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That wouldn't matter at any speed above 15mph or so. And the air scoops that goldtop mentioned are important, I tried it without them myself and although mine didn't overheat it did run hotter without them.
I realize that...well more like 30mph. But the original post was questioning if the bike was really getting hot or it was a gauge issue. If the fan runs normally at lower speeds but isn't on when 'pegging the needle' in OD, I might wonder if the problem was the gauge, sending unit or related wiring.
 

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I realize that...well more like 30mph. But the original post was questioning if the bike was really getting hot or it was a gauge issue. If the fan runs normally at lower speeds but isn't on when 'pegging the needle' in OD, I might wonder if the problem was the gauge, sending unit or related wiring.

I see your point but no way will he be able to hear the fan at that speed, 1100 fans barely make enough noise when stopped to hear it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Put in a new Stant thermostat, also has a one year old stant radiator cap, to answer a few questions. And here is the story of what has happened so far.
Well, checked temps and stuff as suggested and everything seemed pretty close to normal seemed to be a gauge issue. I had around 75 miles on the replacement engine and since things looked good took the bike for a trip from VV to SD about 300 miles round trip. Engine ran great got to SD parked bike and next morning about a quarter since oil spot on the ground, not good but nothing to serious, I thought. As I went up the pass to VV the engine started to howl got to VV stopped for dinner and had a steady leak out of the weep hole about a sliver dollars worth before we could walk away from the bike. Had a nice dinner, drove the bike home the last few miles and the howl got worse and an nasty puddle under the weep hole after parking the bike at the house. So the next step is to Replace what sure appears to be a BAD water pump. Will update after replacement of the pump. By the way what is the trick to getting the o"rings on the pump to go in. When I did it on the old engine it was a real bear to get the pump fitted back in with the the o"rings on it.
Thanks for putting up with the story.
 

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By the way what is the trick to getting the o"rings on the pump to go in. When I did it on the old engine it was a real bear to get the pump fitted back in with the the o"rings on it.
Thanks for putting up with the story.
Installing with dry o-rings seldom works. A little oil. grease or any other slippery substance makes installation easy and helps to prevent cutting the rings when installing.
 

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Installing with dry o-rings seldom works. A little oil. grease or any other slippery substance makes installation easy and helps to prevent cutting the rings when installing.
+1

I use Grease. Works on exhaust manifold gaskets too.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here's the update, the old water pump was wobbling so bad it was rubbing against the case good thing it was a fiber pump not a metal one. Also checked the thermostat I had it installed upside down. Used lot's of vasline on the o'rings put the pump in the freezer for about 4 hours and the pump slide in the case with a nice solid click with a good push. No leaks or drips in the driveway to late and cold to test drive tonight. Will give her a quick run in the morning before work.
Thanks for all the help
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It was to cold to find out if I had an overheating problem absolutely not to cold to drive, have to have snow on the ground before it is to cold.:applause:
 
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