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A couple weeks ago a similar thing happened. It wound up being the spark units. They were replaced and all seemed ok. On the way today i stopped and gassed up. About 5 miles later i start to lose power. If i get the spped up it was ok. I thought i was having a fuel issue. It got progressively worse to where i stalled at a light and could barey get enough power to get off the road. I can get it started but have to keep the revs up to keep it running.

Looking for ideas. I am going to check for spark but it is very bright here.

UPDATE and related issue: The issue seemed to be resolved when I was directed to the loose connector this morning. I took it out for a short ride at lunch time today and all seemed well.

On the way home it started to bog down again. I drove about the same distance as I had this morning. That started me thinking that yes that connector may have been somewhat loose, but I think the fact that the bike sat for about an hour gave things (coils ?) time to cool off. While I was waiting for my daughter to get me, I waited about 40 minutes. I tried it and it started and pulled with power. Again there was time to cool off.

Does this make sense?
Am I looking at replacing the coils?
If so, what are my options for coils?
 

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have you checked the plug connection. the one that couple the wires by the battery?
 

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Gas tank not venting? Crack open the gas cap and listen for a vacuum hiss.
 

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Did get a hiss. Also tried riding with cap loose.

Plug connectio to the left of battery. White blue and yellow wires was loose. Is that the on you meant? I will let you know if that was it

I also popped the plugs and moved the bike into the shade. Tough to see a spark. It may be weak.
 

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Wda. You have some beer money coming your way. Thank you so much.
 

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i belive so. its in the same plug connection holder that holds the stator wire plug.
 

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What do the plugs look like? Whiteish? Tanish? Blackish? Wet? Sootie? Gassy? Do they all look the same?
 

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drones76 wrote:
Wda. You have some beer money coming your way. Thank you so much.
;)beer money ! awwwwh-- just send a donation to the forum instead. fair enough ? glad to help.
 

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one of two things:
the 3-pin alternator connector , if it's hot, then there's your problem, or
Carbs are clogged, remove and rebuild, change fuel filter
 

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If your igniters were bad, you'll want to inspect your coils very carefully. What you describe sounds like a "leaky' coil to me.
 

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BW: The igniters were bad and were replaced a couple weeks ago. The plug that wda referenced was in fact loose and the problem is resolved. As a precaution, I will check the coils. What is the best way to determine if they are leaky.

Armo: Carbs were rebuilt using a Randakk kit two months ago. Carbs were also synced.

As I stated above the connector seems to have been the culprit.

EDIT: for complete info, this is the connector that was loose. It was not disconnected as the picture shows, but I just had to touch it to have it slide out. The locking clip was not engaged.



Thank you all for your suggestions and quick replies.

jon
 

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Update first post.
 

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hate to say this --- but that is a strong indication of the igniters or coils going bad.
 

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Well since I replaced the spark units with what were known good ones, I will check the coils tonight. Will a static test necessarily tell me which is bad especially if it is failing after warming up?
 

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The best thing I know of for replacement coils is this;
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/101648.html

There are 4 I know of in this area that have done it and all are very pleased with the results. My idea I know but even if it were not it's still a good mod.
 

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drones76 wrote:
Well since I replaced the spark units with what were known good ones, I will check the coils tonight. Will a static test necessarily tell me which is bad especially if it is failing after warming up?
yes and no :ROFL:if you have 81 coils the readings should be primary .4+/- .04 oms. secondary 22k +/- 5k oms. but most importantly look for cracks. you`ll have to dismount the coils to do this proper. spark plug connectors should read 5k+/- 10% . hope this helps some .



daves mod looks like a good one too.
 

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wda-83wing wrote:
drones76 wrote:
Well since I replaced the spark units with what were known good ones, I will check the coils tonight. Will a static test necessarily tell me which is bad especially if it is failing after warming up?
yes and no :ROFL:if you have 81 coils the readings should be primary .4+/- .04 oms. secondary 22k +/- 5k oms. but most importantly look for cracks. you`ll have to dismount the coils to do this proper. spark plug connectors should read 5k+/- 10% . hope this helps some .



daves mod looks like a good one too.
There are about 25 cars at the local pull-a-part yard that use the coils Dave wrote about. I am going to get a set today, maybe two sets.

For anyone interested in the mod, there are aftermarket coils for the Neon/Stratus/ Voyager on Ebay for about $30.

I did remove the coils last night. I did not see any cracks although I was not looking for them. I am confident that it is failing coils based on the warmup/cooldown functionality.

Should I have had the same ability to ride the bike on two cylinders as when the spark unit failed a few weeks ago? Or, do the coils tend to fail as a set?

When it was warm, the bike would not generate enough power to go at all, this time.

Thanks again for all of your help.
 

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heres the coil and wire lay out.







it would seem if a coil were to go out . it would take out 2 cylinders.
 

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That is similar to the diagram in the shop manual and it does indicate that two cylinders will be lost with a single coil failure.

Am I back to square one figuring this out?

I did pick up a coil pack for a Neon and will be attempting the mod this weekend.
 
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