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I’m rebuilding the carbs on a GL1100 that’s been sitting for at least 8 years, but my wife has me on a really tight budget. I bought it for 100 bucks and told her that I thought I could get it running for around 500, but I’m finding some things wrong that I hadn’t expected. The light bars need to be rewired with something other than household wiring nuts, the carbs, on the 2 and 4 side were full of water (fortunately, it looks like the intake valves were closed and I know it hasn’t gotten rained on until recently).



Anyway, where is the cheapest place to get a carb kit, timing belts and head gaskets? I’ve found that Ebay is a decent resource, but there’s still no reason to pay 75 bucks for a dozen stupid rubber o-rings. I want to get it going with the minimum expense so my wife can decide she likes it before winter, then I’ll go all out and get it into a showroom condition while the snow is flying (what little snow we get here in AZ).



Thanks,

David
 

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As far as a I'm concerned, there's only one way to do a carb rebuild. That's all the way. If you're going to take the time to pull them off the bike, you might as well go ALL THE WAY. I'm sure some Gurus will agree with me.

With that in mind, even doing the carb rebuild yourself is not cheap. I just finished mine. With the kits, Air cut-offs, accel pump, misc cleaners, your looking at about $75 per carb. Sorry for the bad news, but it will save you time in the long run.
 

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Nightflier wrote:
Anyway, where is the cheapest place to get a carb kit, timing belts and head gaskets? I’ve found that Ebay is a decent resource, but there’s still no reason to pay 75 bucks for a dozen stupid rubber o-rings. I want to get it going with the minimum expense so my wife can decide she likes it before winter, then I’ll go all out and get it into a showroom condition while the snow is flying (what little snow we get here in AZ).
David
Start out by cleaning and taking care of the carbs, take a careful look at the fuel tank, water in the carbs might mean water in the tanks and that might mean rust. Pull out the spark plugs and spray a good bit of WD40 or oil in the cylinders and hand crank the enginefor several turns, hopefully it's not frozen. Check the plug ends for signs of corrosion or rust as a hint of what's in the cylinders. I wouldn't pull the heads right away, the gaskets aren't giveaway and the cylinders might be okay. A jump from a car battery would power a compression check and that would give a good bit of into on the valves and rings. Just make sure to have all the plugs out and the throttles wide open. If those areas check out, check for spark. If that's working a carb reconditioning and test run would be next. Be sure to change the oil before trying to run the engine, and change it again after an hour's engine run.

Belts are available reasonably from NAPA, #250274 By all means change them. A good investment would be a Clymer Manual for your bike or a Honda manual from Helm.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/welcome_select_oem.asp?Style=&mscsid=0VBT5LH51TP19KX9JEBCCJB0V5PQ4P77
 

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David, I've had my 1100 since '82 and have never been sorry about anything about it unless I tried to save money on substandard parts or service. Bite the bullet and do it right. As CardKev says, the carb rebuild will cost about $75.00 per carb and that should get all the correct parts. Doing the work yourself is where you save big money. Spend the time and money necessary and the bike will serve you well for years, if you don't, you'll be doing it again next month. Best of luck, and keep us informed of your progress. Here are a few sources for you.

http://www.powersportspro.com/partsfish/login.asp

http://www.saber-cycle.com/cgi-bin/shop.pl/page=Home.htm

http://www.servicehonda.com/

http://www.siriusconinc.com/default.asp
 

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good luck, I'm doing the same thing. I think it will be worth it.
 

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Thanks all for the websites. and reccomendations. It looks like i'm not going to walk away from these carbs for less than 200 bucks. I told my wife that it was going to cost twice as much as I originally thought and she was less than happy, but then I showed her why. The basickit averages 17-22 bucks a piece. The Air cutoffs are nothing but jelly. at another 17-20 a piece, and the accellerator pump is pretty stiff too (another 17-20 dollars). maybe after next payday. She then asked my why I haven't finished getting my GL1000 going yet and that I should do that first.

She's right, but she doesn't understand. I breath, therefore I want to fix things.

David
 

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Thanks for the advice, exavid,this is pretty much the method I used. The tank was shot and not worth trying to de-rust, but I knew that before I bought it. I already have a replacement on the way. I’m pretty sure the only reason there was water in the carbs was because it was left outside uncovered for the past few months with no false tank. We’ve has some pretty good monsoons this year. Prior to this year, it has been sheltered and covered.



I put some oil and mmo in the cylinders and let it sit for about half a day before trying to turn it over. While waiting, I disassembled and soaked the carbs. They were in pretty bad shape. I’ve got them cleaned, but the air cutoffs are all like jelly and the accelerator pump diaphragm is not very healthy either. I’m going to have to wait until the end of next week (payday) before I can get it to run.



I also drained some oil and it doesn’t look like there was any water in it. I’m pretty sure the water in the carbs stopped at the intake valves.



I couldn’t do a compression check because I don’t have the right fitting for my gauge, but it does seem to be turning over freely. If I get the carbs together and have problems, I’ll probably rebuild the engine. Its got almost 90k on it anyway. I just didn’t want that to be the first thing I have to do.



Thanks again,

David
 

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Nightflier wrote:
Its got almost 90k on it anyway.

David
90,000 miles isn't serious mileage, my bike has 98,000 and doesn't use any oil, runs like new. Well, maybe a wee bit more mechanical noise than when it was new, but not much.
 

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Rumors I've heard are that its not uncommon to see 200k or even 300kwithout a whole lot of problems. Unfortunetely,i'm poor and have to buy the broken down mistreated ones that barely make it to 50. My GL1000 has 47-something. I finally got it running and can't wait to ride it.

Incedently, I saw a broken down naked GL 1000 or 1100 on the side of the road yesterday. In a way it was kind of depressing, buton the other handit was neat to seeone on the road at all. The only other one i've ever seen (outside of photos) is in our local honda shop. I think it hasabout 50miles on it. But I've had a pretty sheltered life.

I knew the second owner of this GL1100 ( I used to date his daughter) and I'm pretty sure he took good care of it. Something broke on the fairing and he started to fix it but lost interest. now its about 6 years later and he gave it to his now son-in-law who left it outside all monsoon season. He could have saved me a lot of trouble by selling it to me years agowhen I asked him if he wanted to get rid of it. I had a really hard time trying to explain to my wife who I was buying it from. ;)
 

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Thanks for the sites fred!

It looks like the http://www.partsnmore.netsite will save me about 60 bucks. For all others interested, the basic kits with float valves and seats are only 12 bucks. the air cut-offs are still a little expensive at 16. the acceletator pump is also 16. They've got a lot of other odds and ends too that will be handy. clutch disks are 8 bucks, but i'm not sure if thats each or for all 8. I need to call them and find out for sure. the way they have it layed out for the clutch disks is a little confusing.

David
 

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You are welcome for the info.For every hour of work I have done on my bike I have done 12 hours of reshearch on the computer and I still ain't learned a thang.Keep it vertical.Fred
 

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found a great deal on timing belts for my gl1100A

Just put in the gates brand & pn#

don't buy from saber cycle I have had some problem with them.

GATES
T274 timing belt
$17.83 Each
$ 0.00 Tax
Quantity2

$35.66 Total


$7.62 Shipping

Order Total

$43.28
Your Discover Card will be charged when your order ships.

Your order will Ship via Ground to Residential Address.

To check order status or get return instructions, please visit http://www.rockauto.com (NOTE: All returns require authorization--parts do not necessarily go back to the location from which they shipped!)



Thank you!
 

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If you want some period bags You might want to try Doug at http://www.awingandachair.com he has a shed full of different bags and if you look in the backgrond during the interview on the video you'll see my 1000 waiting its turn for the lift:grinner:
 

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dammit... I've been waiting for months to get the project started and I just bought the belts last night... 28 bucks a piece. Still a steal compared to the dealer, but I wish I would have checked my email first.

Oh well, murphy's law..

David
 
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