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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
82 Aspencade, recently the bolt on the pulser came loose and the pin fell out, 60 miles from home!
So after fixing that and putting everything back together, when you spin the back wheel the drive shaft clunks and bumps and thumps really badly, like the shaft is just wobbling around in there.
Could the U-joint be bad? What could I have done that would have caused this problem?
Anyone had a similar experience?
This is the first time I have had to R & R the engine on this bike, do not want to ever have to do that again!
Really frustrating to spend all that time fixing such a small but important problem, then have another one! Seesh!
I'd like to go back in time and find the Honda engineer who though putting the pulse generator on the back of the motor where it is completely in-accessible was a good idea, and smack him upside the head!
 

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Vintage Rider
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The driveshaft may not be fitted to the U joint, in which case it is just wobbling around in there. See if the rear whee will turn easily with the bike in gear. if it does, then the driveshaft is not connected. You will need to remove the final drive gearcase to reconnect it. You should be able to tell by pulling back the rubber boot on the swingarm and looking in there while turning the rear wheel.

Engineers can come up with some ingenious things, but other times they get it totally wrong. Seen this sort of thing many times in cars. The engineer who designed the engine probably had no information on what it was going into. I've also noticed that in general engineers do not usually take repair or service into account when they design something.
 

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+1 on

engineers do not usually take repair or service into account when they design something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Found the problem.

Thanks for the replies.
So I pulled back the boot to check it out. The shaft was fine, snap ring OK, rotated smoothly.
The problem was the pivot pin for the swing arm was seated so far in that it was hitting the outer part of the U joint as it rotated. Seems to me thats another bad design as this should never happen, but all the best quarterbacks are "armchair" quarterbacks right?
What has me worried now is the state of the swingarm bearings, if that adjuster pin can go in far enough to hit the shaft, that probably means the bearing has some kind of problem.

This begs another question, when you turn in that pin, the book says 13 ft. lbs, then tighten the lock ring. I don't have a 10 mm Allen socket, so I just turned it in with an Allen wrench until I felt resistance and called it good, because 13 ft. lbs is not very much.

When I discovered it hitting the shaft I had to back it off a full turn before it stopped. Then while riding it still makes a small noise under certain conditions.

Any feedback on that?

BTW: This is my first post but I have looked to the expertise of this forum alot in the process of rebuilding this bike. Thanks to all.
 

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It aint rocket science
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Just goes to show how valuable a visual inspection of a component is when you know what your looking at.

My knowledge of the 1100 is limited but I sure wouldn't be riding that in the condition you describe. Is something rusted, bearings or races wrong or shot?
 

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The adjustable swing arm pivot pin should go on the side opposite the drive shaft, the non adjusting one goes on the right. I think nothing is wrong except you got them on the wrong side.
 

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Junior Grue
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The adjustable swing arm pivot pin should go on the side opposite the drive shaft, the non adjusting one goes on the right. I think nothing is wrong except you got them on the wrong side.
Good catch Dave.:claps:
 

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Do you have the Honda service manual ? IT states to first torque the right hand pivot bolt (next to the U-joint) to 72ft lbs . then the left pivot bolt is torqued to 13 ft lbs . the lock nuts are torqued to 72 ft lbs .
 

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Vintage Rider
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Yes, as far as I know, the swing arm side to side measurement is not adjustable on a Goldwing. I have owned a number of shaft drive bikes that were not like that. You had to measure the clearance between the swing arm and frame on one side when reinstalling it. My VN750 is like that. I got a valve shim for a KLR650 in the exact size to set it with. I've had to remove the swing arm several times to lube the splines, something else you don't have to do on the Goldwing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wrong side is right.

That is a good catch! I was looking at the exploded view of the parts and finally figured out that I had them in the wrong sides. Swapped them over and the noise is gone. I wonder if that is why Honda put the non-adjust pivot on the drive shaft side?
Went on my first "ride" Tuesday, was a good time! Josh Turner concert at the end of the evening was a great finish. That ride was why I was working feverishly to get this thing back on the road.
I was the only Goldwing there, BTW, surrounded by Harleys I could not hear my engine, had to shift by the tach. Figured out it was better to ride at the back of the pack!
Thanks for the help.
 

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They put the non adjustable one on the shaft side so it always goes back on the same to line up the shaft, the other one is to adjust the bearing preload.
Best to ride at the front of the noise machines.
 
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