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I've got a home-made light bar attached underneath the fairing for my fog lights (I'm cheap, but resourceful...LOL).

Last season, I ran a dual wire (one hot, one ground) from the lights through the fairing and connected the ground to a standard green wire ground and the hot lead to my headlight circuit in the fuse box so the lights only came on while the ignition was in the ON position (never had a problem with blowing a fuse or anything all season).

I've got the fairing off the bike and in my spare bedroom (while the bike is in hibernation) so I can 'clean up' some of my sloppy 'quick wiring' jobs from last year. I'd like to use one of the "unused connectors" that already exist in the fairing (see attached schematic) to power the fog lights so I don't have to run wires from the fairing to the fuse box or make a connector for those wires, in the event I need to disconnect the fairing from the bike.

The connector I'm looking at is marked in the picture with a red arrow. It is solid black at the end with a 5amp in-line fuse. After the fuse, the wire changes to a black/white stripe.

Whereas my bike is in storage (not readily accessible), referencing the schematic, can anyone tell me:

(1) When is this wire 'hot' ? (Ignition position)

(2) If only 'hot' in the ON position, would it be alright to trade up to a 10amp in-line fuse and use this wire to run the fog lights? (Adding a switch to the line is no problem if that wire is 'hot' in other ignition positions.)

(3) If the answer to #2 is "NO", is there another wire that already exists in the fairing that could be tapped into so I can run these lights? (Ideally, the lights would only be on when the ignition is in the ON position, just like the headlight.)

I'd like to have everything done before I put the bike back together so it's ready to go as soon as re-assembly is complete. It also helps that I'm sitting in my spare room and taking my time to do this right instead of trying to do this in a cold storage warehouse and rushing the job...
:thumbsup:

I look forward to hearing your advice since it seems to have done me quite well in the past.....

Happy New Year ! :toast:
 

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Just another ORF!
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What is that connector presently used for and how many amps (number and type of bulbs) is your light bar using?

That connector is 'live' when the ignition is in the on/accessory and park postion.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
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Just as indicated in the schematic, those are unused connectors. The wires were all wrapped up and tied together, tucked away deep in the fairing behind the left air vent (presumably done by a previous owner as I've only had the bike a little over a year).

I know my lights are Halogen and I believe they're 55W, but there's no indication on the lights to tell me for sure...There are two lamps.


And thanks, Dusty, for explaining when that particular wire is 'live'.....
 

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Hey Rick
Greetings and Peace unto you this new year.
What you are asking has been asked many times over the years to power more than the bikes circuits were designed to handle. Yes you may have gotten away with it for the past year, but the fruit will ripen someday, and you won't like the results. Bikes have burned to the ground in a pile on molten globs from over taxing. Run a switched fuse panel into the fairing to power your driving lights and any accessories you put on.
 

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I agree with Stu, here.

Those 55w lights use over 9 amps of power (110W / 12V= 9.166666 amps) and is too close for a 10 amp fuse (which would be higher than that circuit is rated for)to handle safely.

Instead, run a 15 amp in-line fuse, from your battery, connected to a 30 amp relay(connected to a switched power source to trigger it) and then to a switch, before your lights. That way, you can switch them off if they are overwhelming your stator's charging abilities (slow speed riding, such as in town).

If you want a clean connection at your fairing, then use some 2 wire connectors. to make removal easier/cleaner. Unless you are very good with a set of needle nose pliers, you can get theseHitachi type Crimpersfor those types of connectors.

I never power any of my manyadditional electrical accessories from my bike's OEM wiring harness. If I ever have a problem and blow a fuse on 1 of them, it disables that accessory and not the entirebike!



 

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Hi RckRagman, the wire you refer to is there to power the amplifier in the Clarion radios which were options on the Interstate, that is why yours is unused. It is switched through the ignition (hot when the ignition is on). The wire is too small to power fog lights and the circuit runs through several plugs, not at all a good thing for running a high current draw. Dusty has the right idea all drawn out.
 

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Hey Rick,

You really need those driving lights (regardless of wattage) on a relay. Those old wires are going to heat up like a toaster element!! Trust me.

Check out this thread I did a while ago when I gutted my fairing and rewired. It is the best way to do it.



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/75901.html



Hope it helps.



Tim.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
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Tim,

:claps:



Thanks for all this information. I will certainly put it to good use.



However, I did notice something I need to ask about. Keep in mind, I am no electrician (which is what prompted my initial questions), but I did some more research on how relays work just so I can have a better understanding.



Now, I may be reading your diagram wrong, but with regard to the relay used for your driving lights (and 12V accessory plug), it appears you used a5-pin relay. Looking at the top three pins, shouldn't the wire that goes to the lights be on the pin in the upper right corner and not the pin in the middle? Based ONLY on what I read online about relays, the configuration I just mentioned would keep the circuit going to the lights until the 'kill on crank' kicked in moving the contact to a dead middle pin, shutting the lights off. Am I reading that wrong?



Also, I wanted to check on something I've already done. I purchased a set of self adhesive L.E.D. strips (about 12" each strip) and stuck them onto my rear fender. I wanted to have them coincide with my turn signals, so I connected one strip to the orange (left) and one to the blue (right) wires at the top of my fender underneath my seat. Using the train of thought that L.E.D.s take very little amperage, those strips won't over-tax my directional circuits, right? I'd hate to think that I need to go back and rewire those things with some type of relay.....



I must thank you again for all your help...This site has been such a big help to me in allowing me to do a lot of work on my own and LEARN MY BIKE.
 

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Hey Rick,



Here's the logic behind what I did.



1) As this circuit sits, with no power going to the "kill on crank" (koc), the is no power going to the relay to energize it. Therefore the power coming from the fuse panel does not make it to the driving lights or 12dc plug.



2) When the key is put into the ignition and turned to various positions, and the headlight of the bike comes on, the relays receive power and are energize through the KOC wire, thus turning on the driving lights and 12dc plug.



3) When the start button of the bike is pushed, power going to the bikes headlights is removed (by means of the Honda's wiring and logic). This in turn removed the power from the KOC wire, removing the power from the relay and the contact opens up again and the driving lights and 12dc plug loose power.



Now, if you were to move the wire from the NO pin (normally open) side of the relay where I have it (#87) to the NC pin (normally closed) side, everything would be reversed. The driving lights and 12dc plug would be on all the time with no key in the ignition, they would turn off with the key in the ignition at various positions, back on during cranking and off again when you stop cranking the bike.



Tim.
 

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Oh, and one other thing.... reduce those 55 watt lights to a lower wattage (24 watt etc.). You WILL end up with a dead battery if not at high RPM as in constant high way speeds.



I wanted my driving lights on all the time, especially when I am in town where low RPM are typical. That is where you really want to be seen. That is where you will most likely have someone not see you and pull out in front of you.

Your LED strips are fine. No need for a relay there.

Tim.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
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Aahhhhh, got it.



I wasn't thinking of the wire being live once the ignition is in ACC/ON...I thought the KOC wire waslive when the 'start' button is pushed. I understand it now. Thanks again.



But again, if I were to be sure that the switch was in the OFF position before turning the key, that would still keep the power away from the fog lights while starting, right? (just want to be sure I at least had SOMETHING right)



And how can I tell the wattage on my current bulbs? I'm relatively sure I tossed out the original box they came in and I can't find anything written on the light casing itself other than the word HALOGEN on the lens... Although, I suppose I could go back to the store I purchase them from and check out another box, since I have to go there to buy the 10gauge wires / circuit breaker / fuse box / fuses and liquid electrical tape.....LOL
 

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The wattage of the bulb should be stamped somewhere on the metal flange of the bulb. I have several types here and they all have a stamp.



Tim.
 

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I took one of the lights apart last night to look for the stamp you mentioned. There IS something on one side of the base of the bulb flange...But I'll be damned if my eyes could read something that small....



I think I'll just look at the box when I go back to the parts store for the auxiliary fuse box setup you advised me on installing.



Thanks!
 

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I agree 100% with Dusty Boots. Most lights come with 55 watt bulbs.



I know that when I replaced mine (from 55w to 35w) I could not find any around this area. I tried all the well know auto part stores and even the family owned smaller ones I cam across in our travels.



I ended up ordering them from a company on E-bay. I have made many purchases from this e-bay retailer...



http://stores.ebay.com/memotronicselectroniccomponents



These are the bulbs I got...



http://www.ebay.com/itm/H3-35W-Halogen-Lamp-Auto-Bulb-Automotive-Lightbulb-NEW-/110568588439?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19be66c497



These are good bulbs and have over 12000km on them in a shakyand vibrating position.



I did order in a few LED versions of the same bulb but they did not give me the visibility I was looking for. I was limited to the physical size I could install as well.



Tim.
 

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Wonderful. . .I haven't been steered wrong from this site yet, so I'm going to go ahead and order these...



From the picture, it looks like they'll fit right into my existing lights...But I may just look into getting a different type of housing anyway. The ones I originally bought have a hard plastic housing that eventually cracked a little, which ended up causing the light to 'bounce' slightly as I rode down the road. With the wide angle of the beam, it was quite noticable (and annoying)as well....I'm probably going to look for a silver or black chrome housing.



At the risk of sounding like a broken record, THANKS AGAIN TIM !



:bow:




Just had to add this...Looking at my last line, I'd venture to guess that if anyone one generation below mine saw that, they'd probably ask "What's a record?" LOL
 

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Try to stay with a light that has all metal and glass parts.



Plastic rarely holds up.



Tim.
 

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Rick
If you can afford them, PIAA Put off some great light with their projector driving lights. Really light up the road.
 

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Happy new year Rick . You can also buy a small fuse panel on E-bay to keep all your accessories fuses handy, you can put it any where:waving:
 

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Yes .... I use a couple of THESEin my bike. One under each fairing pocket.Work great.



 
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