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My ride had to sit a couple of months while I tried to locate work ( on a semi truck).
I have moved my ride out of Washington and am now located mid Oregon. (Newberg).
I had an electrical short three Months ago and am ow getting the time to fix. I have been chacing a short most of the day and have pulled apart the harness from front to back!!.
I found no shorted out wires and the turns sigs still didn't work and were acting as if there was a short!!!! Ok I parked the ride for two months..... and worried about it not getting started while I was not at home. I have replaced all the fried wirtes and still the turn sigs wouldn't work.... zGaad!!! Long story short... corrosion on the light bulb contacts.. started cleaning and youza the sigs started to work!!!! I can't say claen enough!!!! NO!!!

Check ground and clean!!
 

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thats first thing i always check besides the bulb itself
 

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a little test light goes a long way



glad you got her fixed, now put it all back together and use some dielectric grease and go ride
 

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I had a similar prob on a rear light, the bulb looked fine so took it apart saw the corrosion spent a lot of time cleaning and filing the parts down.

Still didn't work, went to my local parts shop and he told me the bulbs don't always look blown when defective. Bought a new bulb and it worked.
Parts needed cleaning anyway so did me a favour
 

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I had a similar prob on a rear light, the bulb looked fine so took it apart saw the corrosion spent a lot of time cleaning and filing the parts down.

Still didn't work, went to my local parts shop and he told me the bulbs don't always look blown when defective. Bought a new bulb and it worked.
Parts needed cleaning anyway so did me a favour
 

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I meter can really be your friend in cases like this. You don't need an expensive on. It has saved me many hrs. and trips to the store.
 

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Got it together and drove!!! by the time I got home no lights (running) or brake turns still operational .. going digging on it again tomorrow.
 

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My Dad always said, "start at the begining and at the most obvious point then work your way back."



Everytime I circumvent this advice, it bites me in the a$$ and it usually turnsout to be theeasiestfix . Why I still do it is anyones guess ; )
 

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bobalou, you are experiencing the reality of age. All electrical stuff ages but at a slower rate than mechanical, but it does age.

And this aging process is a real hassle because many things age differently and express itself with different problems but with age comes everything you have experienced.

Your 1100 will act differently than my 1100 but over that time the reactions will be the same but at different times.

The problem is age but the reality is corrosion, materials getting a covering of oxygen induced crap. But copper, brass, steel, aluminum, lead and plastics age in weird and different styles. When 2 of these materials are joined they produce mini currents that help to corrode between the surfaces.

The solution: Starting at about 3 years of age the bike needs a good going over with cleaning, examining every wire, cable, connection, plug, bolt, nut...because if any are physically touching a dissimilar material rusting ( oxygenation) takes place and rusting creates a bad connection. So everything now needs to be maintained to a level that makes the electrical system less than 3 years old.

Time takes its toll and I use 3 years because most warranties cover that period and when warranted period is over the manufacturer can charge. This time frame also applies to dielectrics.

So do a complete maintenance job, record everything and do not over look anything!
 
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