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engine removal i assume it is the same process has a 1980 gl1100, is so first disconnect battery, <<1> remove cotton pin in the driveshaft, disconnect all power wires , i removed my carbs first will the breather first then the carbs,take out the rad etc: takes about 1 hour to remove the motor completly, i stripped everything on mine so i am guessing 1 hr.if you want a step by step i will write it up and post it for you tomorrow i am tired

derick

 

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:waving::waving:Welcome to the World's Greatest Goldwing Site shawzy!:waving::waving:

Dropping the engine isn't difficult but there's a bunch of stuff that has to come off first. The '81 should be pretty much the same. Haynes is a poor third to the Helm Inc. publication and the Clymer manual in my opinion but if they give a blow by blow description on how to do it, it's pretty straight forward. Figure on an all day job the first time, a couple hours once you've done it before. We don't have a step by step description on the board because it would be a bit lengthy although with some of the guys taking step by step pictures of various jobs we might eventually.

If your Haynes manual doesn't cover the job clearly I'd recommend waiting until you can get your hands on the Honda reprint from Helm or the Clymer manual. The Clymer is available from many sources on the internet including Amazon. Helm Inc. link is below just click on it.

Helm Inc.

 

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From what you are describing you "may" not have to pull the engine. There is a procedure for a flush using MMO that may help your situation. Before I started pulling the engine I would drain a quart of engine oil and replace it with MMO. Run the bikelike a couple of hundred miles if you can and see what that does. The Clutch rollers can sometimes be cleaned using this treatment. If progress is made then repeat the process. Go easy on the bike while this stuff is in there as it is not as good as oil.

Might have to push start her a time or two but you may get lucky and avoid a engine pull.

WF

 

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Thanks Derick - a quick point-formlowdown on engine pull steps would be great if you can spare a few mins to throw it up on the board.

I am relatively mech-savy but don't pretend to be a master of any sort so all the helpI can get the better.

Will have to wait a week or more for a Clymer or other manual and would like to tackle before then so your help greatly appreciated

As with any job of this sort, any "Watch out for this..." is appreciated. By the sounds of it this may not be so bad which is encouraging.

Thanks

 

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Hi shawzy, while you have the engine out, if that is the route you take, remove the oil screen and clean!

~teacher~~~

 

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Thanks for the tip, will do. Engine drop is postponed till next weekend after all so it will give us some time to prep.

I would love a fix without the drop but the sound of the starter-clutch mechanism throwing chunks of metal when in action tells us we have no other choice so wish us luck.

Ordered the Haynes manual, let's hope it get's us by. I have heard it isn't the best but time will tell.

 

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Sound like a chain that has slipped and then drops on the teeth and catches at the end right?? Oh yea add some marbles in there as well. Sounds pretty horrible.

Very normal for gummed up clutch rollers. Can be fixed with a good engine flush from what I have read just about 100% of the time.Some situations may take more than one application to clear up completely. Mine did it the first year I got it but corrected itself due to increased use and very frequent oil changes the first year. The clutch workes on a sprag clutch design, when rotating fast enough centrifucal force pushes the rollersout and engage the outer housing.It is an overrunning clutch design similar to what is used in many aircraft applications. Unless the bearings begin to spall (very unlikely in this relatively low speed/low torqueapplication) it is a extremely relaible design. This has been discussed on this and other boards for the 2 years I have been back into Wings and I have not heard of anyone that has not had success using the MMO flush. They may be out there but I have not heard of any failures in the 20-30 times this has been discussed.

WF

 

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Very convincing arguement you make WF, definitely worth a try before yanking engine. I just assumed that because we hear bits crunching we had to open her up, but what you are saying makes sense.

I have heard that springs can get weak and break, let's hope that isn't the case here.

BTW- what exactly is MMO? A flushing solution I guess...

I have a feeling that frequent oil changes are not part of my bud's regimen, which may add to the problem.

From what you are saying I will also check electrical contacts in the starter motor circuit to make sure everything is spining fast enough.

Cheers and thanks again! I will post the results when I get it figured out.

 

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Hey shawzy:waving: MMO would be Marvel Mystery Oil. Like the Whisker said give her a try before you pull the engine. You can get it at Tractor Supply Company (TSC) or it may be available at your local Canadian Tire.

 

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yw. i am no master either but i've picked mine apart so many times now ,
i can do it with my eyes closed. i will look it up for you, do you own the genunine
honda goldwing manual. that's how i did it the first time went by the book.
if not i can scan the removal pages and email them to you.

good luck

 

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hi. courious what is MMO would be Marvel Mystery Oil?????

kcired

 

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drking wrote:

hi. courious what is MMO would be Marvel Mystery Oil?????

kcired

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=3764&forum_id=1&highlight=MMO

Hi drking, I got this by typing in MMO at the top of the page in the Search Box. There are more links....................good luck! Might even cure warts:??

~teacher~~~:byebye:

 

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Found MMO at our local Canadian Tire - going to give it a shot.

Since the bike won't start, I thought we would drain 2 quarts of oil out and throw 2 quarts of MMO in, pull the plugs and then push her around in 2 second gear for a while to get things turning.

The thing is so heavy we can't get it push-started without a long paved hill (not an option where we are). Towing behind the tractor doesn't seem like a safe option although a few beers might change that.

 

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WE GOT IT!

Flush did the trick boys, thanks a bunch!! You guys saved me an engine drop, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help here, what a resource this site is.

After 2 back to back flushes the starter-clutch behaved normally with a hot engine. The next test was a cold start, which she passed thankfully with ease.

We thought all was perfect, however after sitting in the barn for a week the starter-clutch acted up again for a moment, so we may have to do another flush. I am hoping that simply riding the wing everyday will keep things in order but time will tell. I will have the owner change the oil in another8-10 weeks or so, hope that helps.

If it continues to act up I guess we will dive into the engine drop; I know this board will be here to keep us in line.

Cheers!

 

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That is outstanding. You may have some problems but the more you ride and change the oil the better she will get. My cruiser had been ridden very lightly ( like a hundred miles a year) for the previous 5 years when I got her. It took several thousand miles and 2-3 oil changes before I stopped having an occasional problem with mine. Now it has been over a year since I heard that noise and it was pretty regular in the beginning.

 

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Great to hear that is promising.

Thanks again Whiskerfish you saved our a$$.

 

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Congadulations to both Whiskerfish and shawzy - for a job well done on both parts!
:clapper::clapper::clapper: