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1983 GL1100

The fork seals are leaking. I have not taken them apart. The local mechanic wants about $350 - YIKES!

I read the manual and think I can do them.

1. Can anyone give me the lowdown on doing them? What parts to buy, tools, etc. Do I need to go to the Honda dealer for the seals or can I buy them over the Internet. Anyone have reputable dealers I can go to?

2. Can I just replace the seals and dust boots - is this easier than tearing down the forks? Is there a special procedure for dealing with spring compression?

3. I presume I should do both of the forks, right?

4. Does it make more sense to buy used forks? Are 1980 and 1983 GL1100 forks the same?


and....I have gotten fork oil on the left disc pads, I presume that i need to replace them.


THANKS EVERYONE!:D

Jeff Fredericksburg, Virginia
 

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You need to pull the forks apart to replace the seals. No specal tools, an allen key for the bolt concealed in the base and all other tools are standard. Just put new seals in, buying new forks just because of a leak is like buying a whole replacement motorcycle just because your old one needs servicing!

I've successfully cleaned fork oil off my brake pads with petrol without any problems, but if this happened again I would probably buy new pads as the oil probably does weaken the bond between the pads and the steel backing.
 

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With the TRAC suspension, the '83 forks are the only year they used them on the 1100's. Do not replace them, just replace the seals. You could be installing a set of forks that have seals that are on the verge of going bad. Yes, do both.

Raymond
 

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Jeff, it would help you a lot to get a copy of Clymers. It has a good section on replacing the seals with pictures. There is quite a bit of info on the net at various sites, here is one:

http://www.biker.co.nz/Reviews.asp?id=81

Here is another that might help with a blow by blow:

http://www.goldwing-world.com/gl-1200.htm#Shocks

I'd still recommend getting hold of a good manual, you're going to need it for other things and it's really a help.

:waving:
 

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Check the fork tubes for pitting. If they are damaged the replacement seals will go quickly and you'll have to do the whole job again.

Re the brake pads, I'd change them. For what they cost it's not worth the risk but make sure you've cleaned the disks and got rid of all the contamination.
 

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I just had my tubes rebuilt with new seals, bushings and oil included. If you remove the tubes from the bike and take them in itshould be cheaper. Mine cost about $200.00 CDN (about $140.00 US).

If you are taking the tubes apart for the seals, replace the teflon coated bushings at the same time.

Watch the Clymer manual. I seem to remember reading somewhere that they show the seals installed upside down for the GL1200. They may have used the same pics for the GL1100
 

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mjpliv wrote:
Watch the Clymer manual. I seem to remember reading somewhere that they show the seals installed upside down for the GL1200. They may have used the same pics for the GL1100
Twas true for the 1200!
 

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Hi,

I agree with all these guys - do them both, don't replace them. I just got mine back last night. Indeed, remove them from the bike yourself (maybe an hour to hour and a half labor if you have no clue - like me) :)

I had a total rework done - seals, bushings, oil, and they even had a set of Progessive springs in stock for $65. I would not have done the springs, but my stock ones were sagging badly, making it difficult to keep the bike on the side stand!

All total I paid $250 US, which included all the labor, springs, seals, bushings at the TRAC housing, and a new set of chrome levers. :) Look in your area - I have three local Honda shops, and one that isn't Honda owned but deals exclusively with Goldwings...the cost was probably half of that at a "true" Honda service center.

Jack
 
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