GL1100 front brakes locking up

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Hey jdfred :waving:Welcome to the best Goldwing Forum on the net. :clapper:As this is your first post, who is Steve ?. :stumped: Some of the experts will soon help you out.

:weightlifter::18red::weightlifter:

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Yes this is my first posting. I was thinking I was sending this to setve Saunders :gunhead:

Thanks for the welcome. I have been trying to figure this out for some time now and I cant get it :baffled:

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jdfred wrote:

Yes this is my first posting. I was thinking I was sending this to setve Saunders :gunhead:

Thanks for the welcome. I have been trying to figure this out for some time now and I cant get it :baffled:

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Hey jdfred :waving: Who the hell is setve Saunders. :stumped: This is the Forum section of http://www.goldwingfacts.com/ :weightlifter:Have a good look around this site there are loads of information available. :jumper:This site is owned andfinanced by Steve Saunders himself better known as wingnut.:clapper:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:

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My suggestion would be to replace the front brake line. Also a teardown and rebuild of the front master cylinder would be a good idea. Something is holding pressure in your system, it's either being caused by a breakdown of the rubber brake line, or possibly there's some crud in the master that won't let the pressure off when you release the lever.

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I would also rebuild the master cylinder while I was at it. Problem could be there also. Is cheap to do.

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On the 83 GL1100 Aspencade, the RIGHT front brake is activated when you step on the rear brake pedal. The front left brake is activated when you apply the hand lever.

Check the metal lines running along the frame for a kink or smashed spot.

Bob :11grey:

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Wonder why they reversed the linked front brake in later models? Anyone know?:stumped:

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Thanks I checked my metal brake lines and see no dents in them. I am goning to change me brake hose and see if that helps. I have a kit to rebuild the master cylinder too.

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jdfred,

I have had brake lines fail internally in cars. Once had the front brake of an oldsmoblile lock on during a trip away from home. Turned out the inner lining of the flexible brake line was failing. A flap of the line material would alow the fluid through to the caliper but when the brake was released the flap would extend and prevent the fluid from returning, thus the lock. The outer surface of the line was in great shape. Given this I believe it can't hurt to replace the line. Worst case is you end up with a new line on an older bike (win win).

Bob

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What if I unhooked the brake line going to the capiler and pluged the line off. If the newer bikes only have one front brake I should be able to get by with just one.

JD Fred

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The newer bikes also have BETTER brakes! I wouldn't run with only two brakes working. At nearly 800 pounds of bike, plus rider, there are times you will want (need) all the brake you can get!

Bob :11grey:

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jdfred wrote:

What if I unhooked the brake line going to the capiler and pluged the line off. If the newer bikes only have one front brake I should be able to get by with just one.

JD Fred

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Don't do it!:doh:These bikes don't have any brake to spare. These are big, heavy machines that need all the stopping power they can get.

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jdfred wrote:

What if I unhooked the brake line going to the capiler and pluged the line off. If the newer bikes only have one front brake I should be able to get by with just one.

JD Fred

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You could apply a vacuum pump to the caliper end of the line and see if you can get clear brake fluid out of it.

I think a brake system overhaul is in order - master cylinder (seals and boots), lines hoses (vacuum clean), flexible hoses (replace)and rebuild of calipers. Make sure to blow out all orifices with compressed air to make sure they are clear. Bleed the system at least twice.

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Sounds like a faulty master cylinder JD, especially if the lines are okay. The brakes on the 1100 are merely aduquate at the best of times, so I wouldn't even consider disabling one of the callipers.

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The problem might be that little bleed hole in the caliper cylinder. I posted a query about it a week or so back. When you have the master cylinder off and take off the fitting that goes to the reservoir hose you can see two holes in the bottom of the chamber. One is fairly large and the other looks like a dead end. At the bottom of the dead end there's a very small hole. I had to use a magnifying glass to see the thing and had to work a wire brush bristle in it to clean it out. Anyway if that's plugged up it might contribute to the problem.

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I thought of changing the brake fluidm but my right brake hose let no oil pass through.
I tried with compressed air ... no result.Anybody of you guys have a picture of this front brake oil line'
does the right brake work to gether with rear brake'
lucui

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jdfred wrote:

What if I unhooked the brake line going to the capiler and pluged the line off. If the newer bikes only have one front brake I should be able to get by with just one.

JD Fred

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Why do you say the newer bikes only have one front brake???????????

The newer bikes have two front brakes. One is applied by the front brake lever and the other applied by the rear brake pedal.

If you block off the brake line, you will have less braking power than the newer bikes.

I am having a problem understanding your theory on this one.........!

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Usually if you pull the brake hose sideways a bit and hold it while operating the brake you can feel which caliper gets the pressure. If you put a couple fingers on the caliper and hit the brake levers you should be able to feel which one moves just a little.