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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well been trying to get the old girl back on its tires and off the kickstand. I kinda went through the carbs but did not tear deep into them because I did not have the rebuild kits yet. I just removed the bowls and cleaned them out of residue and blew through the main jets in there. I also took off the tops and checked for any adverse looking wear. It seems pretty good for a bike that has set up since 2004. I will order the randak rebuild kit sometime soon. Right now she fires up and runs from 1200rpm and upwards ok but will not idle very well unless I keep fiddleing with the choke. I am sure the low speed idle circuits are my biggest issue. I plan on dong some seafaom today to see if that helps anything.

Watching it run I see the fuel pump will show bubbles going out the exit hose to feed the carbs..is that normal?

Also how soon should the fan kick on? I am not sure it is working because I have yet to see it come on. The Temp Guage barely gets off the low side but the radiator is showing it is circulating water by the heat I feel.

The old girl was sure mistreated at some point in her life. I hope to give her some better days ahead.
Thanks guys
 

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Well been trying to get the old girl back on its tires and off the kickstand. I kinda went through the carbs but did not tear deep into them because I did not have the rebuild kits yet.
Take them completely apart. In doing that, you'll clean the E-tubes and everything else that has varnished while in the process of inspecting... You may not need any rebuild kits. There is no rebuild kit for cleaning emulsion tubes and other various hard parts. Don't cheat yourself with escape routes... You can do it.

I just removed the bowls and cleaned them out of residue and blew through the main jets in there. I also took off the tops and checked for any adverse looking wear.
...see the above.

It seems pretty good for a bike that has set up since 2004. I will order the randak rebuild kit sometime soon.
Finish the inspection first. (...see above the above)

Right now she fires up and runs from 1200rpm and upwards ok but will not idle very well unless I keep fiddleing with the choke. I am sure the low speed idle circuits are my biggest issue.
... goto top

I plan on dong some seafaom today to see if that helps anything.
Don't waste your money or your time because it won't.

Watching it run I see the fuel pump will show bubbles going out the exit hose to feed the carbs..is that normal?
Those bubbles are a sign that the fuel pump diaphragm has cracks and is passing gas. Fix the carbs then concentrate on what to do about the pump issue. Replacing it is easiest, either with another mechanical or a electric one.

Also how soon should the fan kick on? I am not sure it is working because I have yet to see it come on. The Temp Guage barely gets off the low side but the radiator is showing it is circulating water by the heat I feel.
Well, your intake elbows will be nice and hot somewhere around the time the fan turns on. The gauge will be somewhere into 2/3 full swing when it happens. Don't trust anything electrical just yet, including those meters. There's maintenance to do to them connections yet...

The old girl was sure mistreated at some point in her life. I hope to give her some better days ahead.
Thanks guys
That could be true. Hearing it run is great. Just don't stall trying to tackle too many things at one time. Focus the gameplan on specific areas until each individual section is completed. Air > Fuel > Spark. Then start dealing with the details.
 

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No, not in a silo. I've most of a house below grade meant to conserve energy. That's what that's all about.

I may (or may not) have a connex box or two buried. It's either hang with Top Cat and wait for the Mother Ship or ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have never owned or ridden a GL before. Does the engine have any rumble under load like lugging in second gear from idle? I am hoping the bottom end is good?
When I changed the oil it looked like chocolate milk and about the same consistency. Had a very high gasoline smell.
 

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Does the engine have any rumble under load like lugging in second gear from idle?
Well, my experience is:
... that the factory carbs can only emulsify very well down to a given airspeed and velocity. After that, lower speeds through the carburetors create various drivability problems. So yes, a factory rack will exhibit poor acceleration characteristics under what most consider 2K RPM while in top gear.
On the other hand, ...my single carburetor conversion overcomes these problems in drivability using a two-barrel carburetor and a single-plane intake manifold. Top gear at a 30 MPH in-town speed limit, with reduction to 15 MPH in areas, has me pulling away from 1.2K RPM in fourth many times. I just putt through it 'til the speeds open-up.

I'm sure there's other views.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay I edited my topic instead of starting a new thread SO SOON.

I changed the milkshake oil today and I am again seeing chocolate oil in the sight glass. I googled and most things point to a bad water pump. I do not see any anti freeze dripping from the weep hole and the plugs are pretty tan so I do not think it is a head gasket. I did not flush the block the first time and did not have a new oil filter till mine arrive next week so I just reused the old one. Do you think the residue from the oil filter and any left over oil from the first change could be making the new oil look bad through the glass or am I just be a wishful thinker? The radiator is still full but the reservoir maybe some lower...but hard to tell how much I really lost because I pulled the cap a few times while running to make sure the system had no air and to make sure the water was circulating.

I have new timing belts coming. Should I just order the new water pump and do a head gasket replace all at the same time? I am trying not to get over whelmed but dayum this $600 machine is quickly turning into a money pit.
 

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I'd deal with the oil later.
Once you get the air, fuel and spark situation squared-away you can concentrate on letting that engine get up to normal operating temperature so that the cooling system can cycle at least a few times and allow a good heat soak of the hard parts. Once you can do that, do a flush of both the oil and the coolant then put some miles on it to get the clutch back in its happy-place.

Lots of other maintenance to do 'til then. Lubing the cables is a real good idea.
 

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Focus the gameplan on specific areas until each individual section is completed. Air > Fuel > Spark. Then start dealing with the details.
This is the most single, common sense statement I think I have read on this site yet when doing a large project.

Like that old saying goes... "How do you eat an elephant? ...one bite at a time!"

Make a game plan... write it down so you can modify it if you have too as you fine other problems as you tear into it. Don't run off on wild tangents and focus and fix individual problems.

Most people with out a game plan that tare into a project like this that try to fix a dozen things at one get mixed up and loose interest.

A game plan written down (I use a large whiteboard for the planned path and paper for the details) is the best thing you can do.

Excellent advice.

Tim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
But will the water in the oil not damage the engine if not fixed first?

I need to buy my manual or download one if anyone can help link a download version would be great.

Okay now a carb question...

On the 81 pilot jet/idle screws just at the down tubes..are these fuel screws or are the air screws. While I had the carbs off I did notice the screws are missing their limiter caps and they were set at 1/2 turn out. I checked their their rotations but returned them to where they were set. I now read that the 81 should be set at 1-1/4 from in. What tool can I use to turn them while on the engine? I need to locate 4 limiter caps to replace I am guessing?. Thanks and hoping this might help get the bike to idle so I can advance for now with removing them this week.
 

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Send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will see that you get a manual.

Tim.
 

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Fuel Pump

I don't know if Seafoam had anything to do with it, but my pump started making a ticking noise and would only burp out a trickle of brownish fuel mixed with tiny particles of unknown origin. I did the 85 Accord fuel pump mod and all is well again. BTW, fuel & filter before the pump was clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is the Berrymans a good product to soak my carbs in? I see they sell a 1 gallon container at wal-mart for around $20. Will it destroy o-rings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don't know if Seafoam had anything to do with it, but my pump started making a ticking noise and would only burp out a trickle of brownish fuel mixed with tiny particles of unknown origin. I did the 85 Accord fuel pump mod and all is well again. BTW, fuel & filter before the pump was clean.
links to this mod. pros and cons vs a OE one?
 

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Is the Berrymans a good product to soak my carbs in? I see they sell a 1 gallon container at wal-mart for around $20. Will it destroy o-rings?

Typically and soaking carb cleaner will eat the rubber and plastic (or make brittle) with-in the carb. You have to fully take apart the carb and remove the non metal parts.

The only way to really clean a carb properly and to make you time work while to dissemble, clean, replace the rubber. Us a good kit like Randakks.

Tim.
 
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