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I was reading through How-To document by Octane on how to replace the timing belts, and at the the end of the document he mentions that the valve clearance may need to be adjusted and the ignition timing checked and adjusted.



I found a how-to document showing how to check the valve clearances, but I'm not sure how to adjust the ignition timing.



Is it difficult to check the ignition timing on a GL1100? How do I go about doing it?



Thanks,

Dolan Greene
 

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True, there is no ignition timing adjustment on 1100s.
 

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Excellent, thanks :)

Do I do still need to adjust the valves?

I believe the hydraulic valves were not introducted until the GL1200.
 

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Yes, the valves should be adjusted periodically (not hydraulic on 1000-1100)

Good wrenchin'
todd
 

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slickster wrote:
Changing the timing belts has nothing to do with having to check your valve clearance....
This is true. But valve clearance should be checked every 8000 miles and adjusted as necessary. Unless I knew when it was done last, I would do it while I'm right there...

Good wrenchin'

Todd
 

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Thanks guys

The bike runs really well, so I had not considered checking the valve clearances until I found it mentioned at the end of the timing belt how-to article.

It would be great if I can get away with another summer of riding without messing with them. But if it is not hard, I'll give it a try.
 

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It's a lot easier to check and adjust the valves than it is to pull the heads for a burnt valve, cheaper too. Good luck, Bob
 

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I ordered the gaskets and will be adjusting them.

Are there any symptoms when they are out of adjustment?

thanks
 

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Too loose chatter noise, issues with acceleration, too tight bent valves, holed pistons, back firing and other nasty stuff
 

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So, is there a valve adjustment to make on the 1200?
 

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I believe the 1200's forward had hydraulic lifters and do not need to be adjusted.



In hindsight, this seems like a great reason to have purchased a 1200 instead of an 1100. :?
 

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dgreene wrote:
I believe the 1200's forward had hydraulic lifters and do not need to be adjusted.



In hindsight, this seems like a great reason to have purchased a 1200 instead of an 1100. :?
Yeah I'd agree but working on the heads is far easier than working on the stator :brokedown:
 

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Yes, I realize that guys still think the timing is not adjustable, that's why I mentioned it....It's the right post to do so..
Then please explain how to do that.
 

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Then please explain how to do that.
Dave, I have messed around with the PG more than the average person has I'm sure, I also read that the timing is not adjustable however it is, There are two ways to adjust it if is absolutley needed to be adjusted,, I have actually rebuilt the canister using a auto type canister and doing some modifications to the arm that moves the plate.. So I don't even have the stock canister on my 81, I have a different one on it...anyway How to adjust the timing after its been set, There is a bolt that holds the canister in place, if one were to loosen that bolt and turn the canister it would adjusts the timing, clockwise will advance and counter will retard, but it's set and should not be messed with..How do I know this,,, because I removed things after rebuilding one and I placed it back onto the bike and the timing was off its marks naturally but close, I turned the canister once and saw the marks moved away so I turned it twice the other way and I was closer to the target, one more turn and I was spot on..There I locked it in,,I had to remove the case again to lock it down tight because while I was doing this the bolt that holds the canister was just hand tight...It's in a tight spot up in there, so I locked it down and rechecked it...this took time and lots of patience to do, see, I had checked the timing with my timing light all the while, I could see everything...Now the second way,,on the OEM canister there is a spot of epoxy on the rear of the canister, if someone were to remove that epoxy it would let them in to turn a screw inside the canister to the right or to the left, see, that's the same thing as turning the canister, when someone turns the canister they are actually turning the threads on the arm to the plate and by turning the screw I mentioned you are doing the same thing,,, Now at idle there is no vacuum or very little if any... someone could turn that screw and look at the marks with a timing light and see for themselves the marks move.....So I have done this a few times and it is adjustable,, If someone were to remove that epoxy cap and adjust their timing I would put some JB Weld, or epoxy over the hole on the back of the canister or it will leak air out there for sure,, I have found many canisters without the cover on it, it either fell off or someone removed it.. Honda set the timing and it should never have to be adjusted, but I have learned how it's done ... that's the first place to look if the diaphragm isn't holding a vacuum.....gotta love this stuff...Dave by the way, I love my coil mod...thanks again for that..
 
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