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Is anyone framiliar with what is going on when you press the starter button and the engine takes a second to turn over before acting like there isn't enough power to turn it over faster. It happens when the engine is cold usually and the fix seems to be pressing the starter button square on and rocking it slightly once depressed. When the engine is warm,I don't seem to have the problem. The next time that the engine is cold though, it starts normally. All my lights work fine and the kill switch works as well. Any ideas out there?



Thanks,



NavyMarine1978
 

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I think your switch is the same one as on my 1000. You can pull it out and carefully disassemble it. Just clean up the contacts and snap it back together.
 

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It's a common problem.
The quick fix is to open up the housing and spray the switch with WD-40 while you push it about 30 times...
If you have the skills and the WD-40 doesn't fix it, you can do as Greg suggested. Be warned, there are springs and other tiny parts that you definitely don't want to lose.
 

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As above but before doing the taking apart give it a few squirts of an electrical contact cleaner. while cyclying the switch a few times. From experience I now avoid WD40 on my contacts unless it is to get rid of moisture as it tends to attract dirt and go gummy.

Also from experience of taking my hi-lo switch for a dodgy contact and never getting right again I try and clean things up whilst they are intact
 

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While the push button can fail intermittently, it is usually a work-won't work thing. The starter has nothing to do with sending power to the starter,that is done by the starter relay, another much larger switch down by the battery somewhere. All the starter button does is trip the relay, which then sends current directly from the battery through a large cable to the starter. If the starter button trips the relay, it should start normally, if it doesn't, then it won't do anything. I would definitely check the starter button first, but if it still doesn't work right, I would also check the relay, and all the connections all the way to the starter. Could also be a weak battery. Could also be more than one problem.
 

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Thanks for all the advice. I will definately begin with the most simple solution of spraying contact cleaner into the switch. If this does not solve the problem, I will open the switch. Is this difficult and is there any pics/tutorials of how this is done? I have a brand new Odyssey PC680 marine quallity, dry cell battery I just installed. I believe that I have the juice to crank the bike. There seems to be something between the button and the starter that is causing the problems.

Thanks Everyone,

NavyMarine1978
 

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The switch is pretty straight forward but I still managed to mess up the lh control which is even simpler. My rh control was a bit sticky and was sorted by loads of contact cleaner.
I fancy getting one of those PC680's for the winter, they look to be the best around
Good luck
 

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I really like the fact of when the intermittent thing isn't happening, that the engine is thrown over like nothing. Is the switch full of small ball bearings and springs? I am accustomed to working on old cars and fixing switches and the like. I am not framiliar with my bike in the same way. Where could I find diagrams or a tutorial on how to take apart and reassemble the starter switch? Is there a way of issolating the switch or rellay?

Thanks,

NavyMarine1978
 

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Welcome Navy ., there are pics and advise here . See the forward to navigate .
A quick fix is to spray cleaner into the switch , then cycle the switch then blow out.
 

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Thanks Machinehead. Will I need to open the switch up in any way to spray the contact cleaner in and blow it out or can it be done fully assembled? I have used the search engine looking for starter switch and button without any luck. I may be able to pull it apart and reassemble without any issue but, prefer to see what I am up against just in case. It'snot nice to have something fall apart and not know how to reassemble it.

NavyMarine1978
 

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Some people use WD-40, some people use contact cleaner. One of those old debates. Here's my 2 cents...
WD-40 does leave residue and can get gummy but it does buy you some time. Eventually you will need to take switch apart. To me it makes more sense to do it either in the off season or when doing other maintenance to bike so less down time and more ride time. WD may turn gummy but that can be cleaned out when switch is removed.
Contact cleaner, while great for contacts is not so great for rubber or plastic. Switches contain rubber and plastic. While contact cleaner does a great job at cleaning the contact it may cause the rubber or plastic portion of switch to distort.
Either way (Spraying WD40 or contact cleaner directly into switch) is technically incorrect so pick your poison. Personally I'll choose the WD so the switch isn't possibly damaged unless of course the contact cleaner happens to be closer...
Dissassembly and cleaning contacts with compressed air and contact cleaner on a swab is the true way. Disassemble and re-assemble inside a plastic bag to prevent losing small parts. Good Luck.
 

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NavyMarine1978 wrote:
I really like the fact of when the intermittent thing isn't happening, that the engine is thrown over like nothing. Is the switch full of small ball bearings and springs? I am accustomed to working on old cars and fixing switches and the like. I am not framiliar with my bike in the same way. Where could I find diagrams or a tutorial on how to take apart and reassemble the starter switch? Is there a way of issolating the switch or rellay?

Thanks,

NavyMarine1978
I don't know about the starter button, but most oem motorcycle switches are full of small metals balls and springs. Many of them are designed to do more that onething at the time. I don't even try to work on them. If they fail, I replace them with something else. I have replaced the turn signal switch on a few bikes with a simple on-off-on toggle switch. I'm getting set to replace the one on my Goldwing with the same thing. It is an LTD, and came with a switch box for the load leveling suspension mounted over the clutch master cylinder. The entire on board air compressor system, including the switch box was junk, and is now gone. But I saved the bracket that the switch box mounted to, and intend to use one of those small black plastic boxes with an aluminum cover from Radio Shack to mount the turn signal switch where it used to be.


I recommend electrical contact cleaner to clean it, but I also recomend a shot of WD-40 in the switch housings every once in a while, especially if the bike gets wet, to get rid of the water, and prevent corrosion. The "residue" WD-40 leaves behind is both a protectant and lubricant, and is unlikely to cause any issues with contacts in switches, because it will not stay on the contacts very long if they are being used.

I have filled the carbs on stored bikes with WD-40 to protect them, yes some of it evaporates, but it does leave a coating, which dissolves instantly when you put gas back in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
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TrikerBo wrote:
The switch is pretty straight forward but I still managed to mess up the lh control which is even simpler. My rh control was a bit sticky and was sorted by loads of contact cleaner.
I fancy getting one of those PC680's for the winter, they look to be the best around
Good luck
I really like the PC680. It has a shelf life of two years without losing its charge and cranks the engine over without hesitation. I recommend it to anyone wanting a strong, reliable battery.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Navy, it's just two screws to pop the top of the switch housing up enough to spray the switch. It's a five minute job...no need to fear it unless screwdrivers confuse you.
If that's the case, let Marine do the work.
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
Navy, it's just two screws to pop the top of the switch housing up enough to spray the switch. It's a five minute job...no need to fear it unless screwdrivers confuse you.
If that's the case, let Marine do the work.
Haha. Thanks Bike...and Dennis. I believe that I can manage a screwdriver. I really hate pulling something apart without having a diagram or a duplicate to compare to in case it falls apart. I believe my switch has a philips and hex head bolt holding it closed undernear. You remove these both to pop it open enough to spray? Are you recommending WD or contact cleaner?



Thanks,



NavyMarine1978
 

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Thanks Wingsam and Jerry. I will give some thought to it before opening up the switch. Having it fly apart does not appeal to me. There must be diagrams somewhere of assembly and parts to the switch...

Thanks guys,

NavyMarine1978
 

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Hey NavyMarine,



If you need help, drop me a PM. I live in Dartmouth and I would be more than happy to help you with it. Electrical and electronics are my background and I have a great shop to work in. It really is not that bad.



Tim.
 

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Hey Navy,
It won't fly apart with taking the housing apart.
It's only once you start dismantling the internal switches that you have to start worrying about micro springs and ball bearings.
open it up and take a peek
 

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Mr Magic Fingers wrote:
Hey NavyMarine,



If you need help, drop me a PM. I live in Dartmouth and I would be more than happy to help you with it. Electrical and electronics are my background and I have a great shop to work in. It really is not that bad.



Tim.
Hello Tim,



I live in Clayton Park. Electronics are not my strong suit. I have tinkered on car wiring harnesses and electronics but had both proper repair manuals and a family framiliar with VW's to help when needed. I want to simply make sure everything is up to par and won't leave me stranded sometime at the side of the road. I would greatly appreciate any help and would enjoy learning how my 1100 works. What is your schedule like? I tend to be free by 3pm most days and Sundays.



Thanks Tim,



Neil
 

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PM sent!



Tim.
 
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