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GL1100 knocking in engine

2469 Views 27 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Nightrider1
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Friend of mine has an 82' Goldwing GL 1100. In 1st gear taking off from stop it has a knocking that sounds like it's coming from the left side valve cover. No knocking once you get going through the other gears. Has anyone had the same problem or might know what it could be? Before I start wrenching on the bike I would like to hve an idea of what exactly I need to be looking for. He probably could use an oil change on the bike but the level is good in the window.
I'm a HD mechanic and have no experience with these older Goldwings...but someone told him that the carbs might be out of sync. I rode the bike and to me it doesnt sound or feel like a carb problem.Thanks to all who reply!!!
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try blanceing the carbs 1st
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sounds good....anything the manual doesn't cover that I should watch out for or common problems when performing this?
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Not really. I think someone on here has the synch procedure and what you need to do it. These motors tend to knock badly if one or more cylinder is putting out less or more power. Mine was so bad, I thought it had a spun bearing or rod knock.
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lets us know how it works out
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Well the manual says that I need a special tool so I guess I need to track that down before anything....anyone have an idea of how much that will cost? If someone has a link for me to view that carb sync procedure please post it...many thanks guys!!!!
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take a look about 10 pages down on this fourm shound help
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sadisticcycles wrote:
sounds good....anything the manual doesn't cover that I should watch out for or common problems when performing this?
Hi,

Synchronizing the carbs requires a specific sequence. Left bank, right bank, side to side.
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gotcha...thanks guys...I'll have to get ahold of the tool and then go from there..i'll let everyone know how it goes afterwards.
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looks like i'm gonna order the Carbtune Pro 4 port.....
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sadisticcycles wrote:
looks like i'm gonna order the Carbtune Pro 4 port.....
Follow this forum link.


http://goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=1873&forum_id=1&highlight=carb+sync+tool


A guy (down the line some) talks about making a sync tool with one guage. Something you probably have already.
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well my next door neighbor has a digital manometer...so all I have to do is get some 5mm adapters and use that. I'll keep everyone informed on how it goes.
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update: well it's been a little bit because the solenoid went out then the starter..lol..what luck huh?

Anyways..I build my own carb sync tool with some vaccumm guages. I did the carbs today and have a few questions.

#1 & #3 were easy but 2 & 4 gave me some hell. The guages bounced around everywhere on 2&4 and only got steady when I gave it steady throttle. They read exactly the same when I did this....so are they synced? 1&3 read steady and exact with and without throttle. Any advice would be awesome.
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Not synced. The sync procedure is more important at idle than higher rpms. Have you adjusted the slow air jet pilot screws to the proper setting? I think the 82 screws are sealed but not sure. So the may be okay.
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Here's the thread I posted the procedure to that also deals with the tools needed, where to get them and their prices.

http://goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum6/58961-3.html

I'll also be in Black Mountain Thursday morning for a PGR mission if you want to meet up.
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VERY TRUE!!!!!
My Wing (The 1980 GL1100) I thought I was going to have to repalce the engine, but after a carb sync, It purrrs like a kitten. I gotta do my 83 Aspencade next. Many have the SEVERE RATTLE/Knocking when taking off if the carbs are out of sync. Do that first, and then have the valves adjusted.
Good Luck,
Nightrider1
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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
sadisticcycles wrote:
sounds good....anything the manual doesn't cover that I should watch out for or common problems when performing this?
Hi,

Synchronizing the carbs requires a specific sequence. Left bank, right bank, side to side.
The Above is very true. Also the Valve Settings. If you adjust the valves out of sequence, you still gonna to re-do them. Make sure the #1 Piston is Top Dead Center on the COPMPRESSION Stroke and it is aligned with the T1 Mark. If it isn't, rotate the generator 1 complete turn clockwise and it will be. Set valve clearances using a feeler guage.
Check for these Valve Clearances Below IN SEQUENCE!!!

Cyl#1 Intake Settings--- (Valve Clearance COLD --INTAKE 0.10mm or 0.004 in)
Cyl#1 Exaust Settings--- (Valve Clearance COLD -- EXAUST 0.13mm or 0.005 in)
Cyl#3 Exaust
Cyl#4 Intake

Next, Rotate the Generator 1 complete turn and stop on the index mark T2. Make sure the #2 Cylinder is at Top Dead Center on the COMPRESSION Stroke.
Check for these valve Clearance below: Note they are opposite of the top that were done first. Follow these instructions, and replace the covers annd you are good to go.

Cyl#2 Intake Same Valve Clearance Cold on all. Note Settings above
Cyl#2 Exaust
Cyl#3 Intake
Cyl#4 Exaust

Hope this helps!
Good Luck,
Nightrider1
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Well i'm in the process of synch still and cant keep the guages still on 1 & 3 they are bouncing everywhere at idle. I checked the valves and are good. 2&4 are just as bad as 1&3 on the guages....what do I do??? please reply or give me a call @ 828-368-0389 Gabe
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gonna check valves again just to make sure....im beat
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Nightrider1 wrote:
Bike...and Dennis wrote:
sadisticcycles wrote:
sounds good....anything the manual doesn't cover that I should watch out for or common problems when performing this?
Hi,

Synchronizing the carbs requires a specific sequence. Left bank, right bank, side to side.
The Above is very true. Also the Valve Settings. If you adjust the valves out of sequence, you still gonna to re-do them. Make sure the #1 Piston is Top Dead Center on the COPMPRESSION Stroke and it is aligned with the T1 Mark. If it isn't, rotate the generator 1 complete turn clockwise and it will be. Set valve clearances using a feeler guage.
Check for these Valve Clearances Below IN SEQUENCE!!!

Cyl#1 Intake Settings--- (Valve Clearance COLD --INTAKE 0.10mm or 0.004 in)
Cyl#1 Exaust Settings--- (Valve Clearance COLD -- EXAUST 0.13mm or 0.005 in)
Cyl#3 Exaust
Cyl#4 Intake

Next, Rotate the Generator 1 complete turn and stop on the index mark. Make sure the #2 Cylinder is at Top Dead Center on the COMPRESSION Stroke.
Check for these valve Clearance below: Note they are opposite of the top that were done first. Follow these instructions, and replace the covers annd you are good to go.

Cyl#2 Intake Same Valve Clearance Cold on all. Note Settings above
Cyl#2 Exaust
Cyl#3 Intake
Cyl#4 Exaust

Hope this helps!
Good Luck,
Nightrider1
where is the dang T1 mark???? I was doing it by watching the arms and wiggling the ex & in and if they both wigle it's TDC....right?
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