14.5 volts is good. If you are getting a drop from one yellow wire only with the engine warm, you might have an open circuit that only happens when the stator gets hot.
GL1100, measuring stator voltage
I'm trying to check the charging on my '82 GW. I am finding that when I start the bike up and until it gets warmed up every thing is good; >14V at idle (1100 RPM). But when all warmed up the charge rate goes down to 12.5 - 13 Volts.
I am trying to measure the voltage across the 3 leads from the stator but am having trouble. I am using an analog multimeter set on 0-60VAC range but I only get about 10-12VAC between leads even when I get 14.5VDC across the battery terminals. I think that a health stator is supposed to put out 50-60 VAC.
What am I doing wrong? Does an analog meter not work for this? Should I be using a digital meter?
Comments? Suggestions?
Thanks
Brian
I am trying to measure the voltage across the 3 leads from the stator but am having trouble. I am using an analog multimeter set on 0-60VAC range but I only get about 10-12VAC between leads even when I get 14.5VDC across the battery terminals. I think that a health stator is supposed to put out 50-60 VAC.
What am I doing wrong? Does an analog meter not work for this? Should I be using a digital meter?
Comments? Suggestions?
Thanks
Brian
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To me what your getting at idle doesn't sound right. These gals don't put out much current at idle. Mine is the opposite with 12v at idle and 13.5 or so at speed. If your guage is accurate I would think you've got an overcharged battery.
Yes an analog gauge is fine for the test. To check the stator connect the leads to any two of the yellow wires. Run the RPMs up to about 4K and look to see that you get 40+ volts AC. In turn check the next two pairs the same way to make sure you get 40+ out of them as well. Also check for continuity across each pair and check each wire to make sure it isn't grounded. If it fails any test the stator is toast.
Again I don't know how to make sense of your voltages at the battery. If the stator checks out OK I would be looking to verify proper operation of the R/R.
Hope this helps.
Yes an analog gauge is fine for the test. To check the stator connect the leads to any two of the yellow wires. Run the RPMs up to about 4K and look to see that you get 40+ volts AC. In turn check the next two pairs the same way to make sure you get 40+ out of them as well. Also check for continuity across each pair and check each wire to make sure it isn't grounded. If it fails any test the stator is toast.
Again I don't know how to make sense of your voltages at the battery. If the stator checks out OK I would be looking to verify proper operation of the R/R.
Hope this helps.
not familiar with the 1100's but sounds like it has prob;ems with the stator,regulator and solenoid connectors just like the 1200's do
It's really quite normal for the voltage to go down after it warms up, 12.5 t0 13v at idle is OK. There must be something wrong with your meter of method of testing, if your readings were correct it would not be charging much at all.
+1. I can't see how you're doing the test, but if the voltage were really that low, she probably wouldn't start the next time.It's really quite normal for the voltage to go down after it warms up, 12.5 t0 13v at idle is OK. There must be something wrong with your meter of method of testing, if your readings were correct it would not be charging much at all.
What I want to know is, where'd you find an analog meter?
The tests you're trying to perform need to be done with the stator unplugged from the rest of the system. At @ 3,000 rpm.
If you feel you are doing it right, try it with a DVOM and compare the results.
+.5 on the voltage. Not so much on the voltage, but the statement "quite normal". I keep telling you Dave. You have to qualify your statements. The correct verbiage should be "it's not AB normal".:ROFL:
Hey Dave... If Mike keeps giving you crap just ask him how many 30amp dogbone fuse holders there are on a GL1200 Fuelie... :ROFL::ROFL:
Trick question. Roscoe's doesn't have any!Hey Dave... If Mike keeps giving you crap just ask him how many 30amp dogbone fuse holders there are on a GL1200 Fuelie... :ROFL::ROFL:
No Abby Normal is the girl I should have married. I got AB Normal instead. :dumb:The correct verbiage should be "it's not AB normal".:ROFL:
Thanks for the responses. I had the stator wires connected but will try it with them disconnected.
Dave 0430, yes the voltage is dropping down slightly, at idle, when it is warmed up. If that is normal them maybe I am OK. It charges OK at anything above idle warm or cold.
Brian
Dave 0430, yes the voltage is dropping down slightly, at idle, when it is warmed up. If that is normal them maybe I am OK. It charges OK at anything above idle warm or cold.
Brian
Sounds to me like you're AB negative......I got AB Normal instead. :dumb:
Basics of ac stators
Here is my understanding, first there are two types of stators, permanent magnet types, all GL 1000, 1100 & 1200's and magnetic stators like on cb750,900, 1000 & 1100 twin cam four cylinders. You are working on a permanent magnet type. That means if all is well it makes ac power when the engine is spinning. Hers how I test them, I connect a positive ac volt meter like this, with the stator unplugged. Positive to one lead at a time and ground to the motor case or frame, (try both as you make have a ground problem as well. run the bike at 2000 rpm, each stator lead should have a minimum of 25 volts ac. Turn the engine off check all the stator leads for continuity to ground, there should be no continuity at all. If all leads are insulated from ground and put out 25vac it fine. This may change when it heats up so do it hot. Gl's have long had the problem of corrosion at the plug. When the plug becomes corroded it causes heat which damages the connection, since the stators make power all the time if it cannot get to the battery via the volt pac it over heats and burns the insulation on the windings causing a power short to ground. This is also a common problem if battery voltage is shorted to ground, either by connecting the battery positive cable last or a wire short between the battery and main fuse. Remember the golden rule DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE FIRST, CONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE LAST!
Mugs the HD guy
Here is my understanding, first there are two types of stators, permanent magnet types, all GL 1000, 1100 & 1200's and magnetic stators like on cb750,900, 1000 & 1100 twin cam four cylinders. You are working on a permanent magnet type. That means if all is well it makes ac power when the engine is spinning. Hers how I test them, I connect a positive ac volt meter like this, with the stator unplugged. Positive to one lead at a time and ground to the motor case or frame, (try both as you make have a ground problem as well. run the bike at 2000 rpm, each stator lead should have a minimum of 25 volts ac. Turn the engine off check all the stator leads for continuity to ground, there should be no continuity at all. If all leads are insulated from ground and put out 25vac it fine. This may change when it heats up so do it hot. Gl's have long had the problem of corrosion at the plug. When the plug becomes corroded it causes heat which damages the connection, since the stators make power all the time if it cannot get to the battery via the volt pac it over heats and burns the insulation on the windings causing a power short to ground. This is also a common problem if battery voltage is shorted to ground, either by connecting the battery positive cable last or a wire short between the battery and main fuse. Remember the golden rule DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE FIRST, CONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE LAST!
Mugs the HD guy
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