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How do you test them off the bike..off an 1100.
 

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Not to be cynical, but if they work, they are fine.. These normally either work or they don't.. there is no test that I know of.. and melted is not a sign of a failed unit.. it was common, particularly on the earlier 1100's...

Off the bike, you would need to hook them up with coils (like they are wired in the bike) and give it a pulse (like the pulse generator) then look at the spark.. without the coils, it would be difficult to know whatthe outputwould look like without know what the circuit is inside the spark unit.. Might as well just plug one in and see if it works..
 

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I was afraid of that' got them off eBay as spares but arrived melted..not in the description..I guess I could put them on my bike and see if they work..just hate to put unknown electrical stuff on my running bike...
 

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Put them on the bike and do a test, if they test out ok, then take duxseal and fill in the back of each, this will keep moisture at bay, reinstall and ride. Every so often test them with your open hand for heat. Make sure you clean and verify the connectors, that is the reason for excess heat, because as an amplifier they draw little current but dirty connections cause the amps to rise to maintain the same output. The tar stuff is used to 1- keep moisture out and 2 keep you from knowing how simple the circuit is, box box technology.

N ow you must do electrical maintenance on the whole bike, take your time and clean all connectors, brake cleaner makes a good contact cleaner, but make and break the joints several times the contact cleaner or brake cleaner then blow out with compressed air. Repeat at every connector, includung light sockets, ignition, brakes. After a full day you charger system will show the difference and battery problems will diminish. The large electrical draw components need this cleaning as well.

If done properly the results will last a long time but should be verified each spring, please refrain from dielectric grease because if used improperly will make further work almost impossible because it has to be completely removed to check circuits.
 

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ARKnapp wrote:
....Make sure you clean and verify the connectors, that is the reason for excess heat, .....
Not saying that resistance at connectors can't cause heat, but in this case, the excess heat is not due to the connectors.. (not like the stator plug)..

Internal toevery GL1100spark box is a ballast resistor. The early 1100s (80,81, and maybe early in 82) used this ballast resistor and the internal heat generated by this resistor often melted the casting substance of the boxes. The later bikes (later in 82 and all of 83) bypassed this internal resistor of the spark unit and added an external ballast resistor in its place... This heat doesn't get into the box.. so the answer is.. if using it in the earlier application, it will probably get hot regardless.. in the later application, probably not.. (the boxes are identical.. it is how they are used)
 
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