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Looking for a sanity check.
The #1 cylinder is not firing. I checked the plug, boot, and wire, all OK. Compression is fine. It will run for several seconds, then stop. If I pull the screw for balancing the carbs out, it runs. (edit for clarity, the screw on the elbow that the manometer hooks up to) This says to me that it is the carb. perhaps the slider is not working and/or the diaphragm is torn? The P/O rebuilt the carbs 2 years ago. (yes I trust his ability) I have not balanced them yet, as I want to check the valves first, so that'll be Saturday. I have seafoamed the engine, and it now works occasionally. In the mean time getting 18 MPG. Sound like I'm on the right track?
cheers,
chriso
 

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Not sure about your description..the "screw" for balancing doesn't "come" out it just backs off..are your talking about the air adjusting screw on the bottom of each carB..ACTUALLY IT ADJUSTS GAS FLOW NOT AIR. allows more gas into carb mix as you back it out. yes sounds like gas/carb issue if messing with carbs changes things. If you are talking about the synching bolt it adjusts the butterfly setting on each carb.

18 MPG is way too low..less than half what it should be..gas leak..more than one cylinder not firing, check your oil is there gas in it?? Are plugs wet and sooty, dry and sooty, or a nice light tan color with no soot???

Pull plug caps off one at a time..does engine stall or keep running? Pull plug cap insert extra spark plug, ground tip to engine ..nice fat blue spark??? or not?? Note do not run engine w/o grounding plugs to engine..not good for the system. You can check all four with engine running is you are fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
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The screw on the elbow between the carb and the engine. I should of said the screw you remove to hook up the manometer. I'll edit that now
All the other plugs are nice and tan, and the engine slows, but doesn't stall when the wires are pulled. The plug on the missing cyl is wet. I have not made any adjustments to the carb screws at all.
I looked for a leak, and didn't find anything. I suspect the carb is messed up.
cheers,
chriso
 

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I think he's talking about the screw in the intake tube. If the bike runs better with that screw out, wouldn't that indicate a very rich condition? Like if a float was stuck?
 

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Yeah, that's why I'm thinking carb. The trouble is there is no way to look into the body from the intake side. That would let me see if the slide is moving. I pulled the elbow, and it is free, not sticking. Or an orifice came unscrewed and is in the bowl. That happened to an old beemer I had. Flooded the heck out of that side. I don't feel like pulling the carbs, I have other plans this weekend. Looks like I might have to. I'm going to run out and sniff the oil...

No gas in the oil.
 

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Tap on the float bowl, sometimes that frees up a sticking float or needle.
 

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If #1 is not firing you'll need to fix that before any meaningful tuning or evaluation can be done. I'd suspect it is a bad coil. If it was a wiring problem to the coils then two plugs wouldn't fire as each fires two plugs. Check the primary and secondary resistance on the affected coil. I'll bet you'll find the secondary is way too high. They tend to be readily available at bone yards.

Note: Don't try to run the engine without the plug wires attached or grounded for very long. These coils can burn up if the charge that goes down the wire can't go to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
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It isn't the coil or wires, as I said, it fires fine when I pull the plug from the elbow. All other 3 are working fine, and the plugs are a nice light brown, indicating proper ignition.
As an aside, I thought #3 is the static carb. This is the front right most.
 

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phuphuphnik wrote:
As an aside, I thought #3 is the static carb. This is the front right most.
#3 is right rear, it is static. front right is #1, front left is #2, rear left is #4 (sitting on the bike)
 
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