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I just discovered an oil drip from the water pump housing??

It's my GL1100 Aspy.

What causes that to happen?? Is it the water pump??
 

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I guess, is it possible to rebuild one? if so, where can I get the part's??

Just seems funny for oil to be comming out the weep hope
 

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Two o-rings, front and rear. Prevents coolant/oil from mixing. If either o-ring wears out, it will weep oil or coolant depending on what is worn. Probably the shaft bearings are shot, causing the rear shaft to wobble around and stress the o-ring.

Not hard to replace/rebuild, stay away from Saber Cycles (their pumps are junk) - you will also need a complete seal kit as the front cover will need to come off.
 

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There is also a seal mounted in the engine case where the pump shaft goes into the engine. Chances are it's bad, especially if the water pump shaft is bad.
I would suggest a new Honda pump (about $120). If your pump had the plastic impeller, it is more than likely very brittle and will be difficult to remove in one piece. The new pump will have a steel impeller.
 

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Wizards and smart guys...answer this.

Is it possible that the oil seal is shot but the pump is still OK?
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
Wizards and smart guys...answer this.

Is it possible that the oil seal is shot but the pump is still OK?
No, the bearing on the impeller shaft are bad that's why the seal is shot.

You need a new pump.
 

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buy a pump. if the impeller is not steel like on later pumps you will most likely break the plastic impeller when trying to rebuild it.
 

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I just finished reading GSMclean's how to tutorial on water pump replacement. Now I wana kill something. Everything I have had problems with on this bike can be attributed to the P/O's inability to replace the original water pump,

1 I was told the p/o wired the neutral light to light up in passing gear (4th gear), I didn't believe it then, and now I know why, if you read this how to section you will see that the neutral switch is inside the front cover and if you don't set it right, it will light up in the wrong gear



2 my lower faring covers were zip tied to the frame, telling me that he tightened the upper radiator bolts before lining up the bottoms and when he tried to put them in they wouldn't line up.



3 I just got through mounting up the air ride switches in the false tank, just tells me he unhoocked them all in an effort to remove the false tank.



4 The bike had no horns on it when I bought it, that's because he didn't bend up the horn mounts, he just broke them off taking the radiator off



The good new's is that I have step by step instructions on the RIGHT way to do my repair and when I'm done all the B/S problems I've been working on will be done right.



Just wondering though, as long as I have it apart, shouldnt I replace the oil pump as well???
 

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I need to ask you, has it gotten colder in your parts? My '82 seems to drip at the weep hole over the winter months never enough to have to add oil or anti freeze. I ride this bike all thru the winter. But once summer comes around it doesn't leak a drop. I guess it's expansion and contraction that causes my leak.There's no oil in water or visa versa, so at this point I'm leaving it alone.But if it's pouring out your gonna have to fix her.,,
 

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The oil pump can't be replaced w/o cracking the engine open..big job..oil can leak from three place the oil seal around the pump shaft, the crush washers that hold the water pump in place and the smaller o ring that seal the pump tot eh casing. Replace all three if the your pumps out. Second if there is ANY"!!!! wiggle tot eh pump impeller youir bearings are shot replace or rebuild.

The rebuild is fairly easy but requires patience to pop out eh old bearings they are hard to get to. Rebuild parts are arouidn $25 a new pump $125..your choice. I have several pumps broken down ready for rebuild..with good shafts, you need to buy two bearings and a mechanical seal. Note a pitied shaft is not good for rebuild.
 

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I successfulyrebuilt my water pump time ago and later I've posted about that on the forum, so here is a "copy-paste":



....

I hadn't used any press or anything like that, but only the normal tools and some "hand-made" solutions. Well, here is how I did it:with the pump removed outfrom the front cover, first (of course) remove the "clip" on the rear end of the shaft. Put the pumpon the end of thedesk on its side,so that the impeller is free in the air while the pump is hard pressed against the desk by your hand (or better still, find an assistant to hold the pump on the desk). Get a hammer and beat the shaft from itsrear. In my case it was badly stuck so I had to beat pretty hard. If it still won't go then get some nail and stick or hold it inside the split/slot (place just on the end of the shaft wherethe drive goes in)to aline the "walls" (this should prevent the "walls" from cracking) and then take a larger hammer and beat it harder. Lastly the shaft with the impeller must start to move outside. When the shaft is moved some so it's end had alined with the bearing (nothing left to beat at) then getsome short, heavy-dutyflat headed screw driver and put it in the slot. The same procedure - hold the screw driver in placewith one hand and beat from the other side with another one. Now the impeller had moved some from the casing, so you can help yourself by taking a"fork" typewrench/spanner (I used the 17mm one) and fixing it either against the table or ina clamp ("jowl" or however called in English) on the way that the top of the wrench is free in the air. Then get the pump and put the shaft (front side, under the impeller) in the wrench and rest the casing against the wrench. Nowjust continue beating the shaft's rear end with the hammer and screw driver until the shaft with impeller comes out (be careful to hold it when it fall out, to prevent it from hitting the floor). Now you have to remove the old bearings and theseal. Shake/knock the casing a little, so the collar/spacer between the bearings will move from its place and its edging will now come in the center of the hole (where the shaft was before). On the front end of the casing, where the impeller was, there is a metal plug with the seal attached to it. Do not try to remove it from that side, as you will probably damage it. The casing is "eccentric" on that side, so rest the wider side against the edge of the desk and leave the plug with the seal free in the air. (The impeller side of the casing is now down,its wider edge is restedagainst the desk). Nowget some wooden nail, as thick as can pass through the hole, and stick it through the rear bearing's hole sothat it rests to the collar's edging (which is moved from place) and beat it with hammer. The nail will beat into the collar, which will beat into the inner bearing, which will lastly beat into the plug. After some beating (don't scruple to beat hard) the plug with seal, the inner bearing and the collarwill come out one after another. Now just turnthe casing over and beat out the rear bearing with the same nail, through the large hole that is now there. When putting new bearings inside, first put the inner (front) bearing, then the plug with seal on the front (impeller)side, then knock the shaft with impeller in through the seal and theinner bearing (knock the impeller at its centre, where the shaft is attached). After thatget some short metal roller whose diameter is a little smaller than the metal shim in the impeller's centre, put the roller upon the desk and rest the impeller's centre against the roller, so that only the metal shim (where the shaft is attached to the impeller) is rested. Now the front end of the pump (with the impeller) is down towards thedesk. First put the collar on its place and thenget the other new bearing and knock it down along the rear end of the shaft, untill it comesall the wayin its place. That's it! When driving the new bearings in, to avoid damaging them, you can disrupt the old bearing and get the external (larger) collar out from it. As it is the same size as the new bearing's external collar, you can just put it alinedon the new bearing's collar and knock into it. It will push the new bearing in without damaging it. Oh, don't forget to put the clip back on the shaft!

As I couldn't find a new seal over here and the new pump costs 200 Euros (too much!), I repaired the old seal, which was slightly damaged. I made some carbon dust by sanding some carbon brushes, mixed it with the"Locktite" glue and applied it on the seal's surface where it was damaged. When it got dry I flattened it by sanding with a "gentle" sandpaper. It works so far.

....

Good luck!
 

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My '83 Aspy leaked a couple of times at the beginning of this riding season; enough to cover a 1 foot square patch on the garage floor. Then, for reasons known only to the bike, it stopped leaking. I sometimes get a drop or two after a long - 300+ miles - ride but nothing else. I used to own a Harley post-war hardtail and also a BSA so a few drops from the Aspy are nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Thanks for all the help, guess I will start looking for a water pump. Might as well do the oil pump and timing belts while it's all apart to :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
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I've got it down to the radiator, but I'm kinda sore today after my old man pool party yesterday :D
 
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Concentrate on the pump and not those pool distractions,
and you'll have it fixed in no time.:cooldevil::leprechaun:
 

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Captainbrian47 wrote:
Concentrate on the pump and not those pool distractions,
and you'll have it fixed in no time.:cooldevil::leprechaun:
She's gonna hurt her back. You better get in there and help her out Brian.
 
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johnnynogood wrote:
She's gonna hurt her back. You better get in there and help her out Brian.
I'd love to:):):):clapper::clapper::clapper:....but I've already broken my back 3 times already:shock::shock::shock::leprechaun:
 
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