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I have 1983 standard GL1100 triked. oil plug holestripped out. my question is anybody have luck using a over size self tapping plug to fix this problem. I think previous owner overtightened at some point and stretched the threads. I have been very careful when changing oil but today the threads stripped out. Appreciate any input.
 

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An oversize self tapper might work, but you have to be really careful to get them started straight. A helicoil could be a better option. At least if you break one, you can try another.
 

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There used to be like a rubber plug years ago for stripped pan bolts for auto's. It pushed in with a tool that came with it, and you used that tool to take it back out also.

Don't remember what it was called, it was cheap enough and easy, and it worked. May work for the bike if you find one.
Maybe ask around a GOOD parts store like a Napa and see if they know what it was.
Maybe find one at Auto-Zone or other store on a shelf maybe?
 

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had this prob many times clean out with a drill just the threads and tap out for bigger bolt not a hard job 15 mins max
 

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IF it were mine I would remove the front case cover and make the repair with the part OFF the bike. This makes it easier to get right with no chance of getting debris in the crankcase.


Bill
 

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+1 take it off.
 

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if your slow and carefull you dont need to take the case cover off...

go down to a store that sells bolts and nuts, and order a heicoil kit for it they make helicoil's for any size or thread fix it that way and just use a shop vac to suck out the shavings.


this repair is the only way to repair a stripped plug
 

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thanks for all the responses and information bout ready to put up for the winter so I will take this advice and work on it this winter so she will be ready to ride this spring.
 

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Those rubber plugs can be found in the "HELP" section of almost all auto parts stores...You use an allen wrech to put them in and take them out...Used them for years in several types of trucks, cars etc....Cheap fix and quick too....
 

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I have an option that might save you some time and money. They are called Smart-O drain plugs. I have sold them to several guys that have used them with pretty good success. If you don't mind sending me the shipping cost after you get the plug I can send you one to try and of course keep.



As you can see this is not a sales pitch, if it works for you great-just let other know.



If you want to see some info they are on my website at www.griffintoolsandsupply.com



Regards,
 

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Now that is a great deal that sajobob is offering you.
 

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got drain plug in temporarly some good threads at bottom of hole. anyone know thread size and length of drain plug. forgot to check this before putting back in and filled with oil not leaking and dont want to mess with it think i will go with smart-o drain plug but need the size. thinking it was 14mm
 

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The standard plug is 14mm x 1.5 and the thread length is 14mm from the bottom of the aluminum washer. I used an R6 onGL1200 which is:

Thread: M14 x 1.5[/b]
Length: 12 mm[/b]
Flange Diameter: 22.7 mm


Hex Size: 17 mm Hex Drive
[/b]

[/b]But then the threads on my 1200 were fine so lenght was not an issue. I do have another plug R11 and its measurements are:

Thread: M14 x 1.5[/b]
Length: 24 mm[/b]
Flange Diameter: 19 mm[/b]
Hex Size: 13 mm Hex Drive






As you can see it is twice as long as the R6 plug which would be the standard replacement, my only concern would be that the Smart-Oring is about 16mmfrom the aluminum washer , as long as the threads on the case are long enough it should be okay. You just want to be sure the O-ring is not going to be beyond the threads of the case.

[/b]


Just let me know[/b]
 

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I am going to be leaving for Vegas tomorrow for the SEMA show and will be gone for a week. If you want to try the plug let me know which one and where to send it and I will get it out before I leave.



One of the other advantages for this plug, especially on aluminum pans or in this case the engine case is that the o-ring is now what does the sealing not the washer so the plugs do not have to be torqued as tight as a standard plug reducing the risk of stripping.
 

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Hi Mike,



Just got back from the SEMA Showso I'll get the R6 plug out to you. I'm also going to send you an F3 plug as well, it's a little longer than the R6 and also has a Smart-Washer which might give a little better sealing than the aluminum washer. As I said originally there will be no charge for the plugs just the priority mail shipping. I just ask that if it works out you let other people know about the plugs and my company as a source.



Griffin Tools & Supply
 

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Thanks sajobob I will give them a try. Got bike put up in a buddies heated garage stuffed in a corner right now. his project car will be going up to main shop hopefully later this month so i can work on my bike. I will definately tell people about these plugs. this buddy of mine has a auto repair shop he wants to look at the plugs he has usually used self tapping plugs in this situation.
 

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OK...here is what I can offer you. Since yer gonna park it for the winter anyway. Take the cover off your motor and mail it to me. I will repair the hole and mail it back.

I had the same problem a couple year ago and bought a kit to fix it. Paid $65 for the kit and I've gotten maybe $5 worth of use out of it.

The repair I'll be doing is a recoil. When it's done it will be stringer than the original threads.

All you have to do is cover the shipping each way.
 
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