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1986 Aspencade SEi
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First a quick recap:
Head gasket blew last year on my '83 Interstate. Because I had an important ride the next day I tried Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealant, which immediately took out water pump. Replaced water pump, 50 miles later head gasket blew again. Replaced head gaskets a couple of months ago, and cleaned a bunch of crystals from the cylinder heads and block (residue of the Blue Devil Sealant) but have had problem with overheating since.

Right now I have the radiator off and have pumped water through it. It seems to come out as fast as it goes in. I have a hose connected to the water pump housing and have pumped water through the block and it seems to flow properly. There were some crystals from the sealant around the thermostat but I cleaned them off and checked the thermostat by boiling it. I opened just fine.

Is there anything else I could look for before re-assembling it?
I'm tempted to put it back together without the thermostat to see if that makes a difference. I've done it with cars before and had no problem until winter when I wanted to run the heater. Anybody done this on a GL1100?

I'm afraid that there might still be enough residue from the sealant I tried that the coolant flow is restricted. Anybody know any kind of substance I could run through my system that could dissolve this stuff without damaging any seals?

Any and all advice or comments gladly received.
 

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i may be all wet , but here it is. use a known brand of radiator flush and rinse it out a couple times. be sure it comes up to operating temps during the flushes. it takes heat to melt off the plugging up stuff. then add a 50/50 mix (silacate free) coolant into the radiator first , then the over flow tank , after the thermostat opens.
 

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1986 Aspencade SEi
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362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advice WDA, I'll do that.

Another thing. My thermostat didn't open until the water was fully boiling. According to my manual, the thermostat is supposed to open at at around 180 degrees. So I'd like to go ahead and change the thermostat. Is there any standard automotive thermostat that will work?
 

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well lets see . stant #13868 , napa #101 can be used.
the fully open # is 194 deg. F . so if you just put it in a pan of water with a thermostat you may a false reading. water boiles at 212 F. so its not off too far. it should start to open at 176 - 190 F . so you may not need to replace it. the 50/50 mix has a higher boling point.
hope this helps.
 

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1986 Aspencade SEi
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362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That helps quite a lot WDA, thanks. I've already got it back together and now I'm off to get some radiator flush and new coolant (again).

If it doesn't work this time I think I'll have tried everything (that I know of).
 

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the thermostat spec`s i gave are out of 80 - 81 honda manual . so check the spc`s of the replacements.
 

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I also had severe overheating problems on my 1200. I didn't test the thermostat, I live in Phoenix, AZ and don't need one. But I did gut the thing and put the frame back in. I removed the plunger, spring, and round disc, that moves to open and close it. Some cooling systems need a restriction where the thermostat is. I have had cars run hot from simply removing the thermostat. I suspect mine had an air pocket in the system somewhere that wouldn't come out. I filled it from the bottom up, through the drain plug, and it has not overheated since.
 

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There is a small passage from the water pump housing up to just behind the thermostat housing, if it is plugged it can cause overheating.
 

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1986 Aspencade SEi
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362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got some Prestone Radiator Cleaner and filled up the coolant system. It says that you are supposed to run it for about 6 hours before removing it so I took it for about a 30-minute ride. It didn't get as hot on the interstate as it did before, only about half-way up the normal instead of just touching the red. It is still just a little hotter than it used to be, but I have about about a hundred mile one-way trip tomorrow so I'm going it take a chance on it.

Dave0430, this passage you're talking about, can you get to it just by removing the thermostat housing?

JerryH, that's a good idea, I'll try that. I assume you fill it with water from the bottom, then put coolant from the top and let water out as you need to? Is there a simpler way that you did it?
 

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Dave0430, this passage you're talking about, can you get to it just by removing the thermostat housing?
You have to remove the whole thing, tubes to the heads and all of it which means pulling the carbs. It takes a snaky path to the water pump so you may have to pull the front cover to clean it out.
 
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