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Hey guys, I own a '82 GL1100 Honda Gold Wing motorcycle. I have had it for years and never had any issues with it.

Recently though it likes to overheat when pulling hills or and higher rpm stuff. Around town I never have any problems. I have already flushed the whole system, changed the T-stat, checked the radiator for excessive deposits, and rebuilt/balanced the carbs, etc and there is no oil in the water or water in the oil. Basically everything is tip-top. The exhaust is stock, but isn't plugged either.

I know its really getting hot and not a gauge issue because when it gets really hot it starts breaking up and loses power.

I doubt its the radiator because if it was plugged or corroded it would be overheating at idle and city driving too, especially with the outside weather @ 110 degrees. Plus the problem would of gotten worse overtime. The overheating problem I have started overnight.

I guess the last thing would be the water pump, so I bought another one and its on its way.

Any suggestions guys? I really enjoy riding and can't afford a new bike right now.

Thanks in advance for any help and/or suggestions.
 

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Welcome to the forum from Ont.,Canada
Sounds like either the water pump is not doing it's job or there is something plugged.If the rad was plugged there would be cool spots(in the fins) where the fluid is not circulating.Just because the pump is not leaking doesn't mean that it's pumping.
 

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I suspect that you do indeed have a radiator issue. I would pull it and have a shop vat it to remove deposits that you can't see thru the filler neck.

If any of the POs used tap water, there will be deposits in the tubes.

I agree, the weather has been hotter than usual this year. And, if you want to really feel good about it, the forecast for next year is going to be worse :shock:

Unless the impeller on the water pump has corroded, it should still be pumping water. So back to basics would imply to me that it has a radiator problem.

One other thought though, is the bike running lean? That will also cause over heating. pick up a cheap infrared temp gun at Harbor Freight and see what the cylinder temps are. You can also check to see if the exhaust tubes are all the same temperature.
 

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Sounds more like it might be a head gasket issue to me... One tell-tale sign will be gas bubbles up through coolant under load... also might run hotter when it is doing this, but not necessarily.. Jim
 

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I doubt it's the water pump, Logtech rode his 1100 Interstate for a lot of miles with the tip of the pump shaft broken. He was riding with no water pump and could keep it going on the road without overheating. I believe he was mostly on the freeway and going fairly slow 40-50mph. He can elaborate I'm going from what he told me plus a slippery memory.:waving:

I'd agree with Arizona, suspect a scaled or partially plugged radiator. When you're going slow the engine will heat up enough to call up the fan but it's not generating the volume of heat that running at speed will do. At higher running speeds there's more heat for the radiator to extract, if there's anything wrong with the radiator it won't be able to shed the heat as fast as the engine is creating it. Pull the radiator and take it to a radiator shop. The type radiator on your bike can be cleaned and/or rodded.
 

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Just to clarify a few things, I can run on flat ground at ANY speed including 90 mph and no overheating. The second I start pulling a hill, it overheats. The only way I get the temp to rise on flat ground is when doing a hard accel from 0 mph to high freeway speeds, even then it never really overheats, it just starts to rise above normal operating temps because it doesn't take long to reach those speeds @ WOT. Soon as I level off the throttle, so does the running temps. I am sure with more speed I could get it to overheat on flat ground, but I don't need to run any faster than 80 mph anywhere I go.

However, if I even attempt to do any hills with twisties, even going a slow 15-30 mph or 55-70 freeway speeds it will overheat.

It seems to overheat more quickly with more RPM, so even with high load and leaving it in a higher gear and just adding gas to keep speed it will stay cooler vs downshifting and gaining rpm to maintain speed. Did that make any sense?

Lastly, outside (weather) temps don't seem to effect the bikes temps at all. This first started in January of this year. The first time I noticed the high temps I was pulling a 5000 ft mountain range and it was alittle over 40 degrees outside.

Regardless, I'll look into getting the radiator yanked and cleaned and rodded, if not re-cored.

Thanks guys.
 

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I haven't heard you say that the fan is coming on. Is it coming on when the temp rises?
 

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jimbo1145 wrote:
fgh wrote:
I haven't heard you say that the fan is coming on. Is it coming on when the temp rises?
Was thinking the same thing myself :waving:
I tend to agree with arizona and exavid. The radiator. Even at high speed flat land requires little energy. Going uphill generates extra heat.

Iwon't rule out a damaged empeller on the waterpump but not as likly as radiator. If pieces of empeller were circulating they or it could lodge somewhere in the engine or end up in the radiator. If in the engine even at low speed that area would overheat. A thermostate not opening all the way could cause those systems also but I still put my money on the radiator.

Of caorse your bike has become so accoustom to below sea level that it just rebels when you want to see above the water.:dude::cheeky1::dude::cheeky1:

By the way! Welcome to the forum with the best bunch of people!
 

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The fan works, not sure if its on when at speed though. I would think if the bike was moving at any speed above 30 mph that more than enough air would be moving through the radiator to keep it cool, agreed?
 

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Two things come to mind.

1. Check for vacuum leak, could be a rotten hose.

2. Check timing, timing off a couple of degrees can cause overheating especially when pulling hard.



John :weightlifter:
 

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You say it will run cooler lugging up the hill than shifting down using higher revs? It doesnt sound like a load on the engine is the problem, it is the higher revs. Sounds like you are either running very lean at high rpm in one or more cylinders, or your ignition is cutting spark or advance when revving. Or more likely I am clueless ha ha. Just thought I would mention it.
 

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Maybe you need to "burp" your cooling system, or in other words, make sure there is no air trapped inside. Maybe that air-pocket is keeping the coolant from flowing correctly unless the bike is perfectly level.

Just throwing out an idea.

Hobie
 

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Hobie1 wrote:
Maybe you need to "burp" your cooling system, or in other words, make sure there is no air trapped inside. Maybe that air-pocket is keeping the coolant from flowing correctly unless the bike is perfectly level.

Just throwing out an idea.

Hobie
Hobie1's post bring up another question. Did you use a OEM Thermostat and is it installed correctly??
 

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Ditto on everything mentioned.
It should never overheat as quickly as just accelerating onto the freeway.
Something not right.

My 1100 will heat up pulling hills in 90 plus temps, it's never overheated though.
It has the stock never been rodded (afaik) radiator.
The gauge will climb to 3/4-7/8 scale highest.

It has the stock T-stat and a new water pump.

One thing comes to mind as a possibility on yours,
There is a coolant passage between the water pump and the T-stat.
Mine was plugged completely closed, unfortunately I dont know for certain what effect this plugged will have on the cooling efficiency or how it will affect engine temps. I discovered it early on and cleared it before running it in high ambient temps.

This passage allows a bypass coolant flow thru the engine regardless if the T-stat is open or closed. I think this would also aid in purging air from the system.
It seems to me there could possibly be a cavitation effect happening if that passage is not clear allowing proper flow, something like what happens with an outboard motor.

Anyway, just a thought and if you do the water pump make sure this passage is clear. I advise removing the T-stat back housing to make sure this passage is completely clear.
I think the cross over tubes could stay in place but it would be a good idea to remove and clean then put in new Orings.

I would also suspect the T-stat isnt opening enough, installed backward or upside down as a couple other possibities.
I would never install the so called "compatible replacement" T-stat. Mine would run warmer and take longer for the temp to come down with that installed. I believe because the full opening is smaller than stock requirement.
Go OEM here, it's not worth the savings IMO.

Here's a pic of that passage, good luck with it:

 

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Mean wng

On the overheat problem exavid was refering to, I was coming back from Arizona and if I kept the speed below 60 mph, it would run a little warmer than normal but not excessively. Over 60 mph and when climbing long hills it would get progressively hotter. Around town it was ok unless I was ata light for a few minutes then it would start to climb. Once it got moving it was fine. A little warmer than normal but not critical.

Sounds like T-stat or low water level. Hope it's something simple. Broken shaft is an engine drop. Good luck.

.
 

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Pump vanes can wear thin and not do it's share of the work. Keep in mind it's an '82. Cooling systems are out sight and out of mind if they aren't complaining.
 

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My 83 1100I suddenly started overheating. Radiator recently flushed. I pulled and checked thermostat function and it appears to be working fine. I did replace fan switch, after testing to make fan was still functioning, and it still has not corrected the problem. I'm wondering the chances of having purchased a bad switch. Is there a way to test the switch to make sure that it is functioning properly? I have purchased another thermostat, but don't really think that is the issue. Any suggestions?
 

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If you let the bike sit @ idle, does the fan kick in when its gets hot? Also, when it it overheating, i.e. @ idle, riding slow, riding fast, etc.
 
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