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Hey, im in Washington too! So say that one does the braking upgrades, how much hp is there to gain from porting and polishing the head? If i did that would i need to move to the hotter gl1000 cams? Thanks
 

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Not to long after I bought my 80 GL1100 standard with windjammer fairing, I was at a bike show and there was a big booth selling performance parts for HD"s etc. I asked why didn't they have any parts listed in the books for the 1100. The owner was there and took me aside and asked if I had ever raced another brand of bike and how I did. I told him I did not race anyone yet, but was just curious about the lack of performance parts. He used to ride 4 cyl. wings and raced against several HD's. He said that he very seldom lost a race, even to the highly modified ones. My 1100 will run rings around my 1500 in almost any acceleration contest. Can't fix what ain't broke.
 

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Reminds me of Dale Walker, though you're not talking about him. He's another that will talk to us average 'folk, ..just like Craig Vetter.
He ran some single-carb GL1000's back in the mid-70's with success until Honda choked them down too much. The CB's were primarily his thing back then.
ALL HD's underestimate my GL1. ALL of them get SHOCKED for doing so... hahaha!
 

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So how much would a guess be to how much there is to gain from a good port and polish?
Hahaha. Nobody touching this one, huh?

Instinctually my immediate answer would be, "If you're asking this question, then don't do anything."

My questions to help give you an answer are: ...what are you wanting to port exactly, and what are you wanting to polish exactly, ...and why?

If your engine is stock mechanically, you'll see little gain in any effort, and likely see less power output in a daily rider where you would normally use it. And that's a "best case" situation if the porting is done by someone that knows performance on a professional level. Usually, more heads get F'd-up by someone trying to port passages than not. The dynamics of the surfaces are paired to the components used. For example, opening up cylinder head intake port areas before the intake valve are done because of component changes. Changing the rate, flow and course of the fuel mass entering the combustion chamber, and then residing there, without changing corrosponding components creates a design flaw, or mismatch with current factory components. Everything about the engine is made the way it is by design.

So, porting what? Cylinder head intake ports behind the valve? ...exhaust also? ...combustion chambers? ...what are you trying to port? Port-matching involved in this or not? Are you reshaping anything?, ...like the intake ports or the combustion chambers?
Polishing what? All the above? ...why do you want to do that and to what exactly? Polishing isn't always preferred. Particular turbulance is a good-thing when called on for various reasons. Dimpling as well. Quite possibly grooving. These are all part of a "port and polish" job in some circles.
If you don't know those combustion chambers and their inter-relationship to everything else before and after them, ...then you'll likely end-up with problems that you can no longer fix should you try and do something yourself.

Early cams warrant nothing as far as what you're looking to do.

You want to port and polish yopur heads, you need to do some other things first. Raising your rpm limit would be nice so that you can take advantage of the effort in porting and polishing anything. Raising your rpm limit is probably beyond anything you will do.

If you don't have a flow bench, or have access to one, or are willing to pay someone who does, ..don't waste your time or money. That's my advice.
If you're wanting to learn something of porting, polishing, and anything related to the dynamics of gaseous flow, get a 3.5hp Briggs and Stratten mower engine and see what you can do to it before you tackle your 'Wing.
 

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Hahaha. Nobody touching this one, huh?

Instinctually my immediate answer would be, "If you're asking this question, then don't do anything."

My questions to help give you an answer are: ...what are you wanting to port exactly, and what are you wanting to polish exactly, ...and why?

If your engine is stock mechanically, you'll see little gain in any effort, and likely see less power output in a daily rider where you would normally use it. And that's a "best case" situation if the porting is done by someone that knows performance on a professional level. Usually, more heads get F'd-up by someone trying to port passages than not. The dynamics of the surfaces are paired to the components used. For example, opening up cylinder head intake port areas before the intake valve are done because of component changes. Changing the rate, flow and course of the fuel mass entering the combustion chamber, and then residing there, without changing corrosponding components creates a design flaw, or mismatch with current factory components. Everything about the engine is made the way it is by design.

So, porting what? Cylinder head intake ports behind the valve? ...exhaust also? ...combustion chambers? ...what are you trying to port? Port-matching involved in this or not? Are you reshaping anything?, ...like the intake ports or the combustion chambers?
Polishing what? All the above? ...why do you want to do that and to what exactly? Polishing isn't always preferred. Particular turbulance is a good-thing when called on for various reasons. Dimpling as well. Quite possibly grooving. These are all part of a "port and polish" job in some circles.
If you don't know those combustion chambers and their inter-relationship to everything else before and after them, ...then you'll likely end-up with problems that you can no longer fix should you try and do something yourself.

Early cams warrant nothing as far as what you're looking to do.

You want to port and polish yopur heads, you need to do some other things first. Raising your rpm limit would be nice so that you can take advantage of the effort in porting and polishing anything. Raising your rpm limit is probably beyond anything you will do.

If you don't have a flow bench, or have access to one, or are willing to pay someone who does, ..don't waste your time or money. That's my advice.
You couldn't have just said "Not much"?:ROFL:
 

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But I did. It just came out different. :)
(...where's my dinner? ...is my dinner ready?)
 

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All I know is, that before this forum came along, I tried a set of Jardines on mine, they did fit and that's the best I can say about them because without the carb' improvements alluded to in the Captains video, they will not improve performance, in fact, they will diminish it. I realised this immediately I went back to a stock exhaust because most of the chrome had fallen off the Jardines.

Any stock GL1100 is a "sleeper" IF your carbs are synced, (or you have a good single carb setup) providing you don't have a problem with redlining it. They where designed to be the "all round" motorcycle.

Tootle around between 3 & 5K and it'll cruise, whack it up to between 6 & 8K and it'll rock & roll.

As for brakes, I have Aspy vented rotors all round with Apex SS lines, and I like 'em!
 

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Hahaha. Nobody touching this one, huh?

Instinctually my immediate answer would be, "If you're asking this question, then don't do anything."

My questions to help give you an answer are: ...what are you wanting to port exactly, and what are you wanting to polish exactly, ...and why?

If your engine is stock mechanically, you'll see little gain in any effort, and likely see less power output in a daily rider where you would normally use it. And that's a "best case" situation if the porting is done by someone that knows performance on a professional level. Usually, more heads get F'd-up by someone trying to port passages than not. The dynamics of the surfaces are paired to the components used. For example, opening up cylinder head intake port areas before the intake valve are done because of component changes. Changing the rate, flow and course of the fuel mass entering the combustion chamber, and then residing there, without changing corrosponding components creates a design flaw, or mismatch with current factory components. Everything about the engine is made the way it is by design.

So, porting what? Cylinder head intake ports behind the valve? ...exhaust also? ...combustion chambers? ...what are you trying to port? Port-matching involved in this or not? Are you reshaping anything?, ...like the intake ports or the combustion chambers?
Polishing what? All the above? ...why do you want to do that and to what exactly? Polishing isn't always preferred. Particular turbulance is a good-thing when called on for various reasons. Dimpling as well. Quite possibly grooving. These are all part of a "port and polish" job in some circles.
If you don't know those combustion chambers and their inter-relationship to everything else before and after them, ...then you'll likely end-up with problems that you can no longer fix should you try and do something yourself.

Early cams warrant nothing as far as what you're looking to do.

You want to port and polish yopur heads, you need to do some other things first. Raising your rpm limit would be nice so that you can take advantage of the effort in porting and polishing anything. Raising your rpm limit is probably beyond anything you will do.

If you don't have a flow bench, or have access to one, or are willing to pay someone who does, ..don't waste your time or money. That's my advice.
If you're wanting to learn something of porting, polishing, and anything related to the dynamics of gaseous flow, get a 3.5hp Briggs and Stratten mower engine and see what you can do to it before you tackle your 'Wing.
Thanks for the input! I am new to working on bikes other than restoration that is. I have built 2 classic cars and done ground up restos on 6 classic cars. On the two cars i built i did not mess with the stock heads. Instead just went with aftermarket heads or had a shop to the head work. The reason i mentioned the early cam is because matching the head with the cam is a big deal when building a car, if i were to have the head work done on the bike a hotter cam would benefit this increase in air flow along with the higher RPM which you stated. Along with a higher rpm, just to be on the safer side, i would prefer more performance oriented valve springs to keep away float which i sadly cant find any that will fit :/ Thanks again for the input
 

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To wild to speak right now, see next post

:lash::lash::lash::lash::lash::lash::lash::lash::lash:
 

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Thanks for the input! I am new to working on bikes other than restoration that is.
I guess this means "restoration" only means making them "look" good!!!

:lash::lash::lash::lash::lash::lash::lash:
 

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Along with a higher rpm, just to be on the safer side, i would prefer more performance oriented valve springs to keep away float which i sadly cant find any that will fit :/ Thanks again for the input
I'm working on figuring that out. I broke a spring on mine and have been riding around on it for over a year.
I'm gonna find springs that can handle what I'm doing.
I'm getting backed-up on the bike stuff though, so I don't know when I'll be able to concentrate on it, but it's gonna happen.
In my last video, you can hear the valve slapping because of it. Been that way for a while.
It's interesting listenening to the changes in pitch once things start to heat up though.

Chili is right. Things are matched. I've been looking at a set of D&D mufflers from a GSXR1000 that are disc tunable and tunable with various wraps internally. My HD mufflers work with my set-up well, but my exhaust is not tuned to the rest of the engine. I've more to get out of it. Tuning my exhaust is something I've been looking forward tyo but haven't had the time to get to it. What's on it does work well though.
 
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