[CaptainMidnight85]

You wouldn't be the first to replace a starter instead of the starter solenoid.
A bad (intermittent) solenoid may see nothing from a jump-start.
I just went through this with someone in my garage here at the house.
Testing it? My experience has it working or not. What I've noticed in this though is the amount of time it takes for the solenoid to switch contacts once energized. Instantaneous is what should happen. If any portion of a second can be counted once the start button is depressed to when the solenoid clicks, then it is probably bad.

Is there a electrical test for this? I don't know.

Sure, could be other things, but since I just went through this... ..

As a result, I keep GL10/11/aftermarket solenoids around for testing.

 

[CaptainMidnight85]

... I have put the battery on to charge again as it was a new battery that i needed to fill with acid myself perhaps the initial charge was not enough.

Since we're in a learning mode ...

A new lead/acid battery (the kind that you fill with electrolyte) have a certain quality to them.
They are already charged.

The process of manufacture has the batteries fully charged.
They are assembled, filled with electrolyte, charged, then drained and washed. The plates still retain the "charge" even though the battery has been drained of its electrolyte, washed and dried.

When you buy the battery of the shelf ...and add the electrolyte at home, ...if the battery is allowed to sit for a short period after re-filling with electrolyte you will have more-than-sufficient amperage to start your engine.

Wet-cell batteries can be stored dry almost indefinitely.

 

[CaptainMidnight85]

So cleaned the starter and put it back on the bike. Still wouldn't turn over. We could however jump it by bypassing the solenoid and the starter turner, so not thinking it's the starter.

...starter turner?

I have tried a few combinations for the wiring of the solenoid because I noticed the aftermarket solenoid has the "battery" and " motor" posts on the opposite side of the solenoid....????

B (battery) and M (motor) connections make no difference. Attach the cables for the physical fit and don't worry about the B and M being backwards. Does not matter.

Wondering If it could be one of the 4 wires; green, yellow, red (solid), red(stripe).

Yeap, could be. Jump the spade connectors on the solenoid directly to find out.

Could it be a clutch switch or wiring to the clutch( looks frayed)

The switch and the wiring are two different concerns. If the switch has failed, then perfect wiring really wouldn't matter. If there is a short in the wiring due to fraying, then a perfect switch is useless. Test the switch and service it if needed and correct the frayed wiring.

because I noticed the lights dim without pushing the clutch when I hit the start button....

The lights dim or the headlight goes out when pushing the start button? The headlight is going to go out when the start button is depressed no matter what. If your running lights are dimming along with the headlight going out when the start button is depressed, then there is a current draw and you need to go back to the battery and start over from there. Does the solenoid click when this happens? You may not hear it but you may feel it.
How did you get the factory plug into the new solenoid? Did you have to cut the locking ring off?
What harness comes with a new starter solenoid?
...

 

[CaptainMidnight85]

You are correct Dave.
I should've slowed down and added this:
...remove the spade terminals from the factory plug and make a ring terminal pigtail (for the battery + post) with two male spade connectors for the two red wires.

I posted in another thread about the same thing... that most (all in my case) of the aftermarket starter relays are physically shorter (the coil portion is shorter) and the replacement won't sit properly in the rubber holder because it won't fully reach it. A longer battery cable is the easy answer once into it this far, ...but not so easy. I always suggest a used OE relay from somewhere; parts bike, eBay, etc., ...because of this shorter coil problem.

Careful when buying relays off of eBay. I've bought them as listed for a given bike only to have not just the B/M posts reversed, ..but also the plug pinout. Reverse that pinout 180* and wiring will smoke-n-fry.

 

[CaptainMidnight85]

Test the solenoid.
Use the picture for guidance.

Apply power to the coil portion of the solenoid. Does not matter which poles get positive/negative but, you are applying power to the poles (male spade connectors) nearest the (B)attery and (M)otor posts.

Have a meter on the B and M posts and set it to RX1 resistance. Again, polarity doesn't matter.

Look for full needle deflection (or as near to zero in a digital) when you apply power to the coil.

 

[CaptainMidnight85]

PROBLEM SOLVED.... It was the clutch switch.

Just service the switch then. It's repairable, right? Probably just dirty contacts. They're all just about the same...

Pic is of a front brake switch: