Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
21 - 21 of 21 Posts

· Vintage Rider
Joined
·
2,410 Posts
My answer to a bad clutch and/or sidestand switch, or actually new ones too, because they all do eventually fail, is to remove the wires from them, connect the ends together to complete the circuit, then stuff the connection out of sight somewhere. That takes the "nanny" switches out of the circuit completely. All 6 of my bikes have been done this way.

As far as the "solenoid" that is nothing but a relay, an electromagnetically controlled switch. It is only necessary because the little tiny starter button and wiring is not capable of handling the huge amount of current the starter draws. Wires from the starter button connect to the back of the relay. they are what open and close it electrically, when you push the starter button. That's when it "clicks" the positive battery cable connects to one side of the relay, to one of the big terminals, and the starter cable connects to the other one. When you push the button and click the solenoid, it connects the battery cable and starter cable together, sending power directly from the battery to the starter. You can jump the two big terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver if you suspect the solenoid is not working. That will send power directly from the battery to the starter. If it still doesn't turn over good, you either have a weak battery or a bad starter.


That is all a solenoid/starter relay is supposed to do. But as bikes have become more and more complicated, manufacturers have begun to use the solenoid as a junction box for all kinds of things. I've seen many with way more than 4 wires on them.
 
21 - 21 of 21 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top