Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
660 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

I wanted to show guy's what goes on under that cover while the engine is running, I hit the throttle a few times as I was testing out my modified vacuum advance canister and everything seems good, sorry about the quality of the video and not having sound, perhaps I will show a better one later oh if you look hard you will see the mechanical advance spinning, pretty cool huh.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ult_84AUZjw
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,155 Posts
imported post

Very good, tell us about the modified vacuum advance.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
660 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
imported post

Well, I took measurments of the arm and marked the location and position of where the plate is and how much it opens ect...I took notes..then I cut open the oem canister, an examined the diaphragm with five holes in it..It's gone..So I ordered a auto vacuum advance off ebay for 11.00, cut it open remove the spring because it's reallystiff compared to the GL. one.. Then I had to cut the after market shaft down and threaded it with a die, now on that arm there's a threaded sleeve that's attached to the cup that holds the diaphragm I had to cut it from the cup or separate it from the cup, I cut it out with a dremel,, I drilled straight thru that sleeve and tapped threads in from the bottom to receive the aftermarket piece using the same size threads for my tap, now here's the kicker, I placed the oem bottom to the after market bottom[piggyback], so it sits in there with the original base so you can tighten it up as it was before in it's little hole, I used JB Weld to seal andfasten everything together tight, and I used the original spring in the aftermarket diaphragm and canister, and after placing it on my mitty vac it goes right where it should[3,2"] for my 81 and itholds a vacuum quite well.. A lot of figuring and thought goes into this to get the correct setting asit was before, but I did it and I'm proud of it..There's always another way of doing something, guy'sjust have to figure it out...Or you could just patch the diaphragm, but mine was gone..beyond repair..And this video is proof it works just fine...I thought guy's on this site would get a kick out of it...it's been on the bike since and my bike rides nicely..As it should..In this photo I was in the process of sanding the JB Weld down so it looks a bit sloppy..
 

Attachments

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

Looks good to me. As long as the JB holds up it should work fine and with the threaded rod you can fine tune it.:claps:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
660 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
imported post

That's exactlycorrect Sir..the reason for that threaded rod is this, you can actually turn that canister thus retarding or advancingthe timing, now I don't think it'sis going to be much butyou can get your timing spot on doing this...that's why Irebuilt it to function proper so I could adjust it with plenty of play going both directions if need be...Yes.. all of this requires much thought and a little skill...And making it work the way it should and having your timing marks line up proper isthe best reward I could get..I gotta say, my bike ran like crap before all of this, the mechanical advance was dirty and had rust in there, the vacuum advance was none the plate didn't even move..Once I got this allin order,the bike reallysounds good and rides really good..I have gone to and from KC to SA. Tx.quite a few times now with this repair, it's good..Oh I used JB Weld on the threads at the sleeve connection too it aint going no where, I love that stuff anyhow I sanded it down like bondo and sparayed it aluminum color looks good....Oh so everyone knows,these canister's arms are factor set, never turn that rod, if you do, you might throw off your time a tad..Yikes..
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top