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Hi All New to this forum and it looks great.

Just bought my first Wing. It is a 1982 GL1100A Aspencade. It has 131,000km on the clock (85,000 Mile) I am fairly handy and usually do well with fixing stuff. This bike has not been well maintained but I believe it can be a good ride with some TLC. However I do have a real problem which I need help. This bike runs and goes down the road ok but it seems to lack power and the pipes get cherry red. I saw the pipes the day I got it home and that night I wanted to move it into the shed til the nicer weather gets here and I can get working on it the choke cable tends to pull off as soon as you release is and because it was cold out I needed to let it warm up so put a clamp on the cable and went inside for about 3 or 5 minutes and when I came out the pipes were glowing. Just not quite sure where to start and what to look for on this.
Thanks in advance for any ideas
 

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I have never heard of the pipes getting that hot so i cannopt help with that issue.
as for the choke. The round base just under the choke handle will turn clockwise to give you resistance. both pulling and the return

welcome to the forum. hope you are ready for the tons of info and great people

or the great info and tons of People??
 

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:waving:Hello and Welcome Winkernod . The ole 1100s are great dependable bikes . I would suspect the bike is running lean . Have the mufflers been changed ( non stock ) that might cause a lean situation but normally not at idle speeds .

Another more possible cause might be the timing is off . If you go to the "Reference and FAQ " forum . you can download the service manual . Check your timing belts and be sure the cam timing is correct to the crankshaft . Also check the valve settings .



AS to the overall bike a change of all fluids might be a good thing to do , oil change , coolant , brake fluids . The inline fuel filter .



Randakk's Check at this link for lots of reading .





Come back and let us know how its going . No worries about questions . You can come back and quiz us or use the " Search function " .



Again welcome and enjoy our family here .
 

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I do have a long grocery list of things to do and check
timing belts are fairly high on the list
all fluids
tires
rebuild calipers ... of coarse replace pads
fork seals( actually only one as previous owner changed one last year....???) only one??
check stator connector... have already been reading lots
check choke cable
replace air lines from compressor to front forks (and maybe rear too)
 

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Thanks WingandaPrayer
The pipes had been replaced ,was told, about 5 years ago. How does AM pipes cause a lean burn? As far as the valve adjustment there is no apparent noise but might be something to check
 

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Do not run your engine again until you have ruled out a few things. pipes that get cherry red are an indication of a few things.

a plugged exhaust system can do this. cam timing being off by 1 tooth can allow the exhaust valve to be open on the power stroks which turns your pipes into the combustion chamber. This can burn your exhaust valve.

Valves adjusted too tight can cause this. A big build up of carbon holding a valve open can cause this & a stuck exhaust valve can also cause this.

You need to confirm that your cam timing is dead on! These are interference engines & bad cam timing can make internal parts smash together.

You must confirm that your valves fully close & the adjustment is good.

Cherry red is TOO hot for aluminum!

Keep us posted!
 

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Your pipes shouldn't be cherry red unless you are wide open throttle for a long time....hard to believe that the bike runs as it should...you say lack of power...clue number 1....start with a compression check...timing check...are both sides cherry red?...pull the plug wires one at a time at idle...notice rpm change?...somethings' wrong and more investigation needs to be done before you fry it.....
 

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Cherry red is TOO hot for aluminum!

Keep us posted!

Aluminum melts before red heat I would heed Hatchetman's warning
 

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Could be a valve timing issue, I'd check the belts and cam timing just to be sure all is well there but suspect the redhot pipes were caused by having the choke left on. It's going to run very rich which means the likelihood of afterburning in the stacks. If the mixture is over-rich the exhaust gases are most likely still burning the excess fuel as they are ejected from the cylinder on the exhaust stroke. Makes for hot pipes. Normal mixtures will be more completely burned and cooler as they leave the cylinder. One cause of the choke opening on its own on these bikes is a frozen or nearly frozen choke shaft(s). The choke shafts are connected to the linkage via a coil spring under the black plastic caps. Even if the choke shafts don't turn at all you can still pull the choke knob out, it will be harder to pull and try to close back down due to the fact that the coil springs in the linkage will be wound up, but the chokes won't be fully closed if at all. So check your choke shafts when you pull the knob to make sure they are both actually turning the choke plates.
 

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Hello Winkernod,
I think these folks have nailed it down. I have only been tinkering with my '80 model a year and I have learned a great deal on this forum, spent lots of hours just reading.
I did look in the Haynes manual pg 107 and you will see some possible reasons for overheating and lack of power as listed before:
1.Too lean due to leaking air intake or no filter - ie not enough intake restriction, or not enough exhaust back pressure, or clogged slow jets perhaps.
2. Timing not advanced - bad vacuum advance or mechanical advance. I thing the latter kicks in fully at 3,000 rpm.
The vacuum advance, experts here say it does little to affect performance.

Also, I wonder if a person puts in too much carb cleaner into the fuel how this mixture might burn too slow or hot and wind up burning in the exhaust? These products usually about half kerosine and/or a light oil. Treat are usually about 1 oz/gal. Keep us posted, I can't wait to hear what you find out! :waving:
 

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hi winkernod. welcome aboard i'm in kit any time i can no pro, if you need part's you can't find i likely have or can find for you
very good advice from everyone i'd do all the above.

derek
 

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Wow Guys

This is great. Thanks to all who replied some good ideas, as time goes by I will keep updating. It was a thought in my mind the carbs might have been fouled as the rest of the bike is in need of good maintanance.I will be replacing the timing belts even though I don't think it has skipped a tooth, it runs fairly smooth.

Thanks again to all, it feels like I'm at home in my garage having a beer and chatting to my buddies.
 

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Yeah, you really don't want to leave the choke on full longer than a minute or two. It makes the bike run REALLY rich which helps warm up the engine but can really mess things up if left longer than that.

Another example, my friend just bought an old Land Cruiser with choke. He thought you could keep it on for 10 minutes while he went inside. Came back out to find the radiator blown, spewing steam everywhere.

You can ride with the choke on. The revs will be higher, but it helps the bike run for a while until it's warmed up.

Cherry red is TOO hot for aluminum!

The pipes aren't aluminum, at least on my 83.
 

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what kind of flow do you have out of the pipes.might be pluged exhaust.have seen it on cars exhaust gets hot when converter gets pluged up can you undo mufflers and see if it still gets hot????
 

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WINKERNOD wrote:
Thanks WingandaPrayer
..... How does AM pipes cause a lean burn?

To much restriction as noted in another reply . Also a vacuum leak can cause a lean situation .
 

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While all ths is going on , what does the temp gauge read?
 
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