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GL1100 Relay / Solenoid Clicks Starter Doesn't Crank

14K views 32 replies 10 participants last post by  tallnwise 
#1 ·
Hi,

I was attempting to start my bike after many months. I connected my battery (I disconnect it when I do not use the bike for a while), turned on the ignition, lights came on, hit the starter button while switch was off, starter cranked.

I then pulled the choke, turned on the starter knob, and hit the button. The starter cranked but the bike did not start. Understandably, has been sitting for many months. I kept cranking in short bursts until the battery was finally dying but did not start.

So smart (dumb?) me, connected a battery tender, and continued to crank for couple of minutes, but it did not start. The black wire connected to the battery's left (negative) terminal was getting extremely hot. So I turned off the bike for a few minutes, disconnected some accessaories like running lights. And connected only the black wire from the starter to the negative and the red wire from the relay to the positive and tried once more (with the battery tender connected). Then nothing - no more cranks from the starter and a very soft click from the relay. Lights still worked.

So I then took the battery out, fully charged it, and put it back on. Cleaned my plugs, they were a little wet all seem equally dirty. Tried again. Lights works, headlight dims when I press the starter button. I get a loud click from the relay / solenoid, but no cranks from the starter.

Need some help, thanks in advance.

Regards,
Dan
 
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#2 ·
Hi Dan, It sounds like you may of worn your starter motor out ( black wire became really hot). Starter motors are a high torque electric motor that are designed for short/ intermittent use. I know we all over do it at times ( cranking) but they are not designed for continuous operation. Most instructions advise 3-5 minute rest after 20 seconds of continuos cranking.
 
#4 ·
Hi,





And connected only the black wire from the starter to the negative and the red wire from the relay to the positive and tried once more (with the battery tender connected).





Regards,
Dan
The black wire from the starter does not go to the neg. , it goes to the starter relay. You need to put the wiring back where it was, charge the battery, clean the connections including the one where the neg. cable connects to the triangle shaped engine mount.
 
#6 ·
OK, the black - cable may have bit the dust and not be making good enough connection to operate the starter. If you have jumper cables connect the black lead to the battery - terminal and the other black end to the engine case for a ground bypass and try it.
 
#9 ·
If you have a set of jumper cables and a decent battery. Hook the positive to the starter motor cable side of the solenoid and the positive of the battery. Hook the negative to the battery and hold the other end on a good eart of the frame or the body of the starter. This will arc if the starter motor brushes and the earth are good. You need to not be scared of the sparks and force a good connection so that you have effectively eliminated the solenoid and now know if it s a faulty starter. Make sure that you don't have anything flammable around when you try this as the sparks could ignite anything flammable.
 
#10 ·
Pull the starter and clean it. There is a post on cleaning the starter but I can't do the search with my phone.
 
#12 ·
Got a chance this morning to trouble-shoot.

1. I first tried once more as-is -- lights came on, but when I pressed the starter, only got a loud clicks from the solenoid.

2. I then connected jumper cable, black end to battery negative and the other end to engine frame. I tried with key once more -- lignts came on, but when I pressed the starter, only got a loud clicks from the solenoid.

3. With cable still connected to the negative and frame, turned off the ignition key and removed it:
a. I connected the red end of cable to starter, and touched the other end to the battery positive -- got some arcing and the starter cranked.
b. I connected the red end of cable to the end of the starter cable where it connects to solenoid, and touched the other end to the battery positive -- got some arcing and the starter cranked.
c. I connected the red end of cable to starter, and touched the other end to the end of the starter cable where it connects to solenoid (with and without ignition on) -- got nothing.

4. And then with the black ends of the cable un-connected to anything, and ignition off:
a. I connected the red end of cable to starter, and touched the other end to the battery positive -- got some arcing and the starter cranked.
b. I connected the red end of cable to the end of the starter cable where it connects to solenoid, and touched the other end to the battery positive -- got some arcing and the starter cranked.
c. I connected the red end of cable to starter, and touched the other end to the end of the starter cable where it connects to solenoid (with and without ignition on) -- got nothing.

So does that mean the solenoid may have gone bad?

Thanks,
Dan
 
#15 ·
#17 ·
further issues :-(

So this morning;
1. Fully charged my battery
2. Replaced the ground cable with one form auto-zone a 4 guage cable
3. Installed new solenoid
4. Started cranking, and all seemed good
5. Cranked multiple times, however, the bike still refused to fire.

AND THEN --

The negative stump of the battery started melting off. OK, so I disconnected the terminals and tried re-wiring the battery.

Now, with no key in ignition, I also removed the main fuse, the moment I touch the positive cable to the battery to connect it (ground / negative is already re-connected), the battery starts arcing / sparking.

I am so electically challenged - please help.

Thanks,
Dan
 
#18 ·
when starting, you're only supposed to hit the starter button for 5-6 seconds, then let it rest for 30-45 seconds between tries. this keeps things from getting too warm. you need to connect the pos (red) side of the battery first, then the neg (blk). sounds like it's time for a new battery.
 
#20 ·
just to see, remove battery from bike. connect jumper cables red to red, blk to blk on the bike, not the battery. connect other end of jumper cables to NON RUNNING car battery and see what happens. remember to reinstall main fuse.
 
#21 ·
OK

Disconnected bike battery. Connected jumper cable on bike red to red cable that goes to solenoid, black to bike's ground cable.

Then connected red end of jumper cable to car battery positive terminal (car was off), and as i touched the black end of jumper cable to car batter negative, that arced / sparked too
 
#22 ·
I did some more trouble-shooting in various combinations with the battery still disconnected.

The last thing I tried was connected the red end of jumper cable to starter terminal, and the other end to battery.

Connected the black end of jumper cable to ground cable and when i touched the other end of the black jumper cable to the battery -- still got arcing.

Is the issue with the starter? Is it shot? Does it need to replaced or rebuilt?

Thanks,
Dan
 
#23 ·
a small amount of sparking can occur as you finish connecting everything. using the car battery, make sure you have good, solid connections, blk to blk, red to red. after the connections are made there should be no more sparking. turn key on (but dont start yet ) and see if everything is working normaly, lights, horn, turn. if so hit start button. you should hear the solenoid click and the starter should start to spin.
 
#24 ·
Guess I am still wondering what is causing it to arc, never did before. And what caused the battery terminal to melt.

Also, when I last direct connected the starter it did not crank, it normally should have, the battery continued to spark.

I am still hestitant of connecting it all and trying to fire the bike.
 
#25 ·
you can remove the starter just the cable and 2 8mm bolts. place on bench connect blk cable from bat to starter case, red to bolt that holds cable. if the carbs were getting gas and the fuel valve were left on you may be hydrolocked. remove spark plugs. remove stator cover cap (17mm just in front of where the battery sits. using a 12mm offset wrench or socket, turn motor by hand, clockwise only. (from ground up)
 
#27 ·
I did try to test the stater using a car battery, but it continued to arc.

I also tried connecting red to red, black to black and using a car battery to check once more -- the arcing is severe, and continuous, the arc were almost a foot wide. Really want to know what is causing that and how to fix that.

And, thanks for the tip on releasing the the possible hydrolock. Will do that once the electrical stuff is sorted out.

Any ideas on how to correct the severe arcing? Or what the root-cause is?

Thanks,
Dan
 
#31 ·
And, thanks for the tip on releasing the the possible hydrolock. Will do that once the electrical stuff is sorted out.

Any ideas on how to correct the severe arcing? Or what the root-cause is?

Thanks,
Dan
I think what trashtruck is trying to tell you is if it is hydrolocked the starter cannot turn and you are going to get a lot of arcing and sparking.
 
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